Newegg.com - A great place to buy computers, computer parts, electronics, software, accessories, and DVDs online. With great prices, fast shipping, and top-rated customer service - once you know, you Newegg.
If you are reading this message, Please click this link to reload this page.(Do not use your browser's "Refresh" button). Please email us if you're running the latest version of your browser and you still see this message.
Showing Results: Most Recent
Pros: Largest SATA HDD for PCs at 10TB.
Very fast for a mechanical HDD, but still half the speed of a SSD.
Cons: Even though it is quiet when not being using, there is a noticeable "thumping" sound during read/write operations.
Other Thoughts: I have been building PCs for over 15 years now, and I thought I'd never see the day there was a 10TB hard drive (I even remember when a 500GB was massive).
Over the years, I have been a Western Digital and and Hitachi fan, as those brands have been the most reliable for me.
I had tried the Seagate 3TB drives when they first came out years ago, and both of the ones I bought only lasted a few days before going bad. Since then, I haven't used a Seagate drive, so I am curious if their quality has improved over the past few years.
I connected this Seagate 10TB drive up to one of my ASRock motherboard's SATA6 connectors and turned on the PC. I am also using a Radeon R7 480GB SSD and two Hitachi 2TB DeskStar 7K3000 drives. Both the Seagate 10TB and Hitachi 2TB drives make spin-up noise when the PC is powered up, but the Seagate is a bit louder and you can hear the drive head moving about for a couple seconds, then it is quiet. Once Windows 7 loads up, the Seagate drive is as quiet as the Hitachi, as there isn't an "oscillating spin sound" like I get on WD Black and RE drives. But when I preform some read/write operations and run some benchmarks, then I can hear a "thumping" sound coming from the Seagate (most likely the heads moving), even though the Hitachi 2TB drive is silent on its read/writes. Since I have never owned a 10TB drive, and this one is filled with Helium, I am not sure if the "thumping" sound during read/writes is normal for this Seagate drive, but it doesn't sound like the drive is going bad or is damaged. The other NewEgg review on here from Patrick S says he is hearing a soft ticking sound that is consistent, but mine does not do that. One review I read on another site (that is named after a river) said theirs kept making a "chirping" sound every 3 seconds, so that may be the same sound that Patrick S is hearing...but I do not hear a "chirping" on this one that was sent to me from NewEgg for review...only the "thumping" sound with read/write.
Here are my CrystalDiskMark scores:
Seagate 10TB BarraCuda Pro HDD: 256.7 MB/s Read, 216.5 MB/s Write
Hitachi 2TB DeskStar HDD: 123.1MB/s Read, 141.4 MB/s Write
Radeon R7 480GB SSD: 551.3 MB/s Read, 521.0 MB/s Write
So as you can see, the Seagate 10TB drive is twice as fast as my 2TB Hitachi for Reads, and 75MB/s faster on Writes. So this is a noticeable improvement on speed. But it still can't replace a Solid State Drive with over 500MB/s read and write speeds.
At this point, I would recommend this Seagate 10TB BarraCuda Pro drive for those individuals looking for the largest SATA HDD on the market. It works fine in my home-built Windows 7 PC environment, and should also work well for backing up data and with NAS. It is faster than any other HDD that I have used, including my current 2TB Hitachi, and some WD Black and RE drives that I had a few years ago, but it will not replace a quality SSD boot-drive for speed. Also, the price of the Seagate 10TB drive is about $500 right now, so that is a bit pricey for some people, but considering it is a single 10TB drive, the price is not too bad. I just hope the quality of this drive will last without issues, and Seagate learned from their mistakes a few years ago with their 3TB drives that I had problems with.
Pros: Fast speeds at 2133Mhz.
Cons: Requires 1.68v instead of the advertised 1.65v.
Other Thoughts: After loading 4 sticks (16GB total) and the RAM's XMP profile on my ASRock Z68 Professional Gen3 motherboard, it runs at 1.68 volts instead of the advertised 1.65 volts. If I go into the BIOS and manually change the RAM's voltage to 1.65v, it then becomes unstable and doesn't run as well, so have to change it back to Auto (1.68v). The timings are 9-11-10-28 but run at 2N (2T) command rate. If I change it to 1N (1T) command rate, the system will not boot up. I know that the Mushkin 996997 and 996996 RAM has 9-11-10-28 timings, but runs at a 1N (1T) command rate and also at 1.65v, so I'm waiting to see if the Mushkin gets back in stock.READ FULL REVIEW
Pros: Motherboard comes packaged well. Upon opening it, it feels sold and the head sinks are well supported. The layout of the board is also good, allowing easy access to SATA and other ports.
Cons: The first thing you need to do is update the BIOS. This isn't really a con, but does need to be done, as other reviews have stated there are issues with shipping BIOS.
At this price, I would expect more than 2 SATA cables. My ASRock Fatal1ty Z68 board from 2001 came with 6 SATA, and other cables as well.
Other Thoughts: I removed my ASRock Fatal1ty Z68 Pro Gen 3 board I've been using since 2011 from my Cooler Master case and put in this Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD3H board without any problems. I did have to use an Intel i7 LGA-1150 CPU, since the other CPU I had been using was an Intel 2600K LGA-1155.
I installed my same RAM (Mushkin Enhanced Redline 8GB DDR3 2133MHz), Video Card (PNY VCGGTX560TXPB-OC2-S GeForce GTX 560 Ti), CPU Heatsink (Noctua NH-D14), Hard Drives (Hitachi GST Deskstar 7K3000 2TB), and Enermax 800W power supply.
After everything was connected, I flashed the BIOS and easily set it up. At first I decided not overclocking the CPU or the RAM, so there would be no issues.
Then got my Windows 7 x64 Ultimate configured with the drivers that are needed for the board (which did take about 45 minutes). After that it was all up and running.
After no issues for a few days, I decided to overclock the RAM from 1600MHz to the 2133MHz that I had been using before. Again this was simple to do in the BIOS, and I ran some tests, such as Super Pi, Intel Burn, Prime95 and memory testers to make use it was solid. Then after several days of stability, I then started to increase the CPU's speed and voltage little by little. I have a lot of experience with CPU overclocking, and don't think the "automatic" settings, since they usually give the processor more voltage than is needed, and create higher temps. But if you gradually increase, after trial-and-error in a few days you can find a good OC speed with voltage that will be just right. But with most mid-range boards, you can't OC the CPU too much, or will get boot errors and shut-downs.
Once all this was done, I've been running the board stable for a week now with no issues. But in all honestly, I do like my ASRock Fatal1ty Z68 Pro Gen 3 board better. It seems to have more features, and actually seems to run faster (but not sure why).
Overall, this is a good mid-range Z87 board, but at this price, you might as well spend a bit more and go with a top-tier board with more features, better overclocking, and added expandability.