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Pros: Overclocks easily. I achieved a stable 4.7 GHz overclock, but read my comments in the "other thoughts" section.
Cons: None for me, even though it is an obsolete CPU running on an obsolete chipset. Read my comments in the "other thoughts" section.
Other Thoughts: My PC combination: Asus Z97-A-USB 3.1 motherboard, retail Intel i7 4790K CPU, Cooler Master Hyper 212 heatsink with two Rosewell 120 mm Hyperborea fans, Arctic silver 5 thermal compound, and 16 GB Corsair Vengeance gaming RAM gave me the following CPU parameters that I am happy with.
Bclk (aka front side bus) = 103; Multiplier = 44 at a voltage = 1.218 for a very stable overclock (O/C) of 4.53 GHz, a 13 percent O/C versus the default 4.00 GHz speed. Raising the Bclk from 100 to 103 overclocked the RAM to 1647 MHz. The motherboard BIOS states that the CPU voltage is 1.056 volts and the two CPU fans on the Heatsink are running at 785 and 870 RPM at idle. Idle temperatures for the CPU average 35 C and for the motherboard 24 C in a Rosewill R5 gaming chassis (case) in a room that consistently is about 21 C. I've seen no heat issues whatsoever after four hours of game play and no serious increase in fan noise.
I played around with all sorts of tweaking combinations and did get the CPU to run stable at 4.7 GHz at 1.326 volts. However, IMO running this CPU at over 1.3 volts will shorten its life, by how much is anybody's guess. This is just something that I believe. Is there any difference in running an i7 4790K at 4.53 GHz versus the default 4.00 GHz? IMO, probably not. I play First Person Shooters and Role Playing games on a 32 inch 1080p TV set using an AMD GPU, the R9 380 with 4 GB video RAM. For most serious gamers this is a pretty low end video setup.
So why did I O/C this CPU? A friend just built a gaming PC using the Skylake 6700K CPU in a Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3P-001R motherboard with 16 GB of Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4- 3,000 MHz RAM, liquid cooled in a Tesseract chassis (built by Deep Cool) running an AMD Radeon R9 390 GPU displayed on a 42 inch 4K TV set. I wanted to see how much I had to O/C my 4790K to equal performance of his 6700K set at 4.0 GHz default. It turned out that I had to O/C up about 13 percent. We both are currently playing Fallout 4 and when I go over to his house to watch him play I really don't notice any frame-rate differences. Obviously one can measure differences but to my eyes I notice is a more detailed and crisp display. I paid $340 for my 4790K back in June and he paid $420 for his 6700K. I know that socket 1150 is now obsolete; however, if you are cash strapped, I suggest that you give consideration to sticking with a Devils Canyon CPU running on a Z97 chipset motherboard, because as you've read above, you can quite easily O/C the 4790K to equal the default performance of the 6700K.
Pros: Lots of room, the R5 is very large IMO for a mid-size case (chassis), but has barely adequate space between motherboard and RHS panel for hiding cabling, to ensure an unobstructed space between motherboard and LHS panel for clean airflow from the two front mounted fans.
Cons: Very poor instruction manual; see my comments below. I hooked up the two front fans to the fan control switch and the fan control works OK, but seems a design afterthought.
Other Thoughts: Be very careful when assembling your motherboard into the R5 case (chassis). I’ve been building PCs for 30 years and seldom do I make build mistakes, but I do on occasion, and in this build I made a really serious error. So you won’t make the same mistake, let me explain. I read the R5 manual carefully. However, there was no mention of the necessity of using the included copper motherboard standoffs to properly secure the motherboard electrically. I saw the three top motherboard mounting points that were stamped in place. However, I did not look carefully at the rest of the motherboard tray. Why? I build usually in very inexpensive cases (chassis) and for years all I’ve seen are that all motherboard mounting points were stamped into the tray. My lack of observation almost cost me a ruined mobo. I assembled the PC, checked all connections and made sure that all components were seated firmly and then turned on the power supply (PS), pressed the on button on the R5 case and nothing happened. I checked that the on-off switch on the PS was on. It was. Then I removed the 20/24 pin connector and used the old green pin plus black pin paperclip check to determine if the PS was good. The PS fan came alive and I concluded the PS was good to go. Then I checked the switches on top of the case with a flashlight and magnifying glass. All seemed OK and I did not want to disassemble the case’s control panel. The next step was to remove the motherboard and it was immediately apparent that I was shorting out the mobo. I disassembled everything and attached the copper motherboard standoffs to the motherboard tray using a 5 mm socket (wrench). Be careful as the metal tray is 1010 steel and is very soft. Just tighten until “firmness” is felt. Overtighten and you will strip the threads in the tray. I rebuilt the PC and lucky for me everything worked. My main components are Asus Z97-A (USB 3.1) motherboard, Intel 4790K CPU, overclocked to 4.7 GHz on a CoolerMaster Hyper 212 Plus Heatsink/Cooler using two Rosewill Hyperborea 120 mm fans, 16 GB Corsair Vengeance gaming RAM, a Raidmax Thunder V2 635 watt PS and a PowerColor R9380 4GB video card. All components are new. This build is my dedicated gaming machine.
NOTE to Rosewill: Write a more explicit manual. Surely, I’m not the only person building in the R5 case who has made the mistake I’ve described above.
Pros: See correction in "other thoughts"
Cons: See correction in "other thoughts"
Other Thoughts: In my original post I typed 18 mm for the steel's thickness. My mathematics goof; that should have been 1.8 mm and that's wrong. I measured the thickness again, looking carefully for a non-rolled edge. Where the power supply goes in I found such an edge. My micrometer says between 0.05 mm and 0.06 mm. I measured this metal thickness a few times. The thickness is about 2 hundredths (0.02) of an inch, or about 25 gauge. A really high end case uses about 20 gauge steel; that's about 1 mm in thickness. Since I've never bought a high end case, or had a customer who wanted such a chassis, I can't tell you how the difference might feel. But, know this; I've never bent the steel on any case I've used for a build.READ FULL REVIEW