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This review is from: Wii Remote+Nunchuk Controller for Nintendo Wii + Case
Pros: It works on the Wii and Wii U without issues.
It syncs to the Wii and Wii U just as quickly as Nintendo brand controllers.
Great bundle deal for the Wiimote, nunchuck, silicon wrap, and wrist strap.
Cons: -1 Egg: Nunchuck analog stick is a little loose and will break just as quickly as my other aftermarket nunchucks.
-1 Egg: Wiimote itself isn't compatible with PC (tested on both Windows 7 and 8.1.) The authentic Nintendo Wiimotes and several other aftermarket Wiimotes I own are able to connect to my PC via Bluetooth (or, on Windows 7, an integrated Bluetooth infrared sensor bar,) but this specific controller can't interact with the emulator.
Other Thoughts: The Wiimote, silicon wrap, and wrist strap are perfect, but I'd only recommend this particular controller if you're planning on replacing the nunchuck and are only using it for a Wii or Wii U.READ FULL REVIEW
Pros: PSU hasn't blown up; good sign.
Very stable voltages.
Beautiful blue LED.
Cables come pre-sleeved.
Cons: You give us 4 molex/SATA modular ports on the PSU and only provide 3 cables to connect to them? Raidmax is such a tease. I could've benefited from an extra string of Molex connectors, but thankfully daisy-chaining 3 molex devices per connector hasn't damaged/overloaded the cables/PSU.
Other Thoughts: It's only been 2 months, so I don't know the longevity of this PSU's life, but it's showing no signs of slowing down. I'll definitely consider Raidmax when choosing my next high-watt/amp PSU.READ FULL REVIEW
Pros: Occasionally works, and when it does it's fine.
Cons: It's an absolute pain to get this PSU to work.
Other Thoughts: Why 3 months of waiting before finding out it's DOA? I've only just used this PSU today, and it failed (it was sitting in the box for 3 months prior to first use.)
I'm using the provided power cable.
I've tried using it in two different computers, and it's failed on both.
1. G3258 4.6Ghz 1.38V, GTX 650, 3 fans
2. A10 6800k stock, 2 fans
It's definitely not a watt/amp/volt bottleneck issue.
I've tested using a different power cable that supplies the same input amps and voltage as the provided cable, and it works for a 430W PSU but not this PSU.
I've tested with that 430W PSU on both those computers and it worked perfectly, so it's not an issue with any other part other than this PSU.
What'll happen is I'll turn on the computer, and it'll either boot to BIOS right away or will merely supply power to the USB LED-colored/backlit mouse/keyboard. No fans spinning, just LEDs activated. Simply pressing the power button when power is only supplied to the USB devices does not turn off the computer, and I've needed to hold the button to force it to power off, but that takes several seconds longer than it would on a normal forced shutdown.
The only way I've managed to get it to work is to turn off power to the PSU altogether by flipping the switch, waiting several seconds, flipping the switch again, waiting several more seconds, then rapidly flipping the switch 9-20 times before pushing the power button. Silly, right? However, NOT flipping the switch those copious amounts of time only supplies power to the USBs.
Display Name: Joshua C.
Date Joined: 01/03/14
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