Showing Results: Most Recent
Pros: Won't know until I get the board RMA'ed.
Asus customer service was great. Person was very knowledgeable and talked me through all the troubleshooting steps. Ultimately decided the board needed to be RMA'ed. We'll see how fast this get's turned around.
Cons: Similar issue to the last person who left a 1 egg review, in that it won't boot. Red CPU light stays lit. However, I am certain it's the processor. I've got a core i7 4820, and the BIOS revision (according to the board) is 35xx. You need revision 43xx. So the current bios doesn't support this CPU. But you can't boot without a recognized CPU. What to do? What to do?
USB Flashback to the rescue!!!
Followed all the instructions to flash with this method. Bios blue light just stays lit. Several folks on youtube (who've watched the promotional video about this flashback utility) have complained they have the same problem. No one seems to know why this happens, or how to fix it. And I was talked through EVERYTHING with tech support, including pulling the BIOS chip out of the board and re-seating it.
In the RMA i requested that they update the BIOS when they repair/replace the defective board. Here's hoping.
Other Thoughts: Some words of advice. I think this board has a lot of potential, once you get over the "BIOS upgrade issue." Your version number can be found on the white sticker on the motherboard (small, near the SATA ports). The last four digits are your revision number. If you have less than version 1203, you have to use a ROM file to update, and even then ASUS pushes you to use their "rom to cap" converter. Newer versions of the bios are CAP files. Follow all the instructions on the asus website for updating the BIOS when using their flashback utility. I get the feeling mine failed because I tried using the rom converter first (I didn't need to since its a newer bios version). I mentioned that to tech support, but they dismissed it, as I never ONCE got the bios to even attempt to update (the blue light should flash when updating).READ FULL REVIEW
This review is from: Rosewill RK-9000BR - Mechanical Keyboard with Cherry MX Brown Switches
Pros: I've written a couple reviews about this keyboard already, but felt I should add an update as I just purchased another for $60. It's still a dream to type on as it was several years ago when I bought it. Having two, I can now compare these side by side and say that after a few years of use, the keys are finally showing some wear; they look polished from my fingers, but the lettering is still crisp (albeit dirty). Typing is smooth and effortless.
Overall a (mostly) sturdy construction. However, there's still a caveat...
Cons: The USB cable on my old keyboard finally broke to the point where it was intermittent (jiggling it around worked for about 6 months). Unfortunately my old one was out of warranty so I had to fix it myself. Nothing a little soldering and epoxy couldn't fix (though it was QUITE the headache). For those interested, here are some brief instructions to repair the USB. Note that opening the keyboard will void your warranty and neither I nor NewEgg takes any responsibility if you mess this up or burn yourself. Soldering irons are VERY hot and should only be used by a professional (or failing that, someone competent).
Remove the three Philips screws from the back, then use a small flat head screw driver to GENTLY wedge the frame apart from the base. You'll need to work around the edges of the plastic bezel, but it will pop off as you work your way around.
The board comes out easily (mine wasn't attached in any way). Carefully flip it over, with the mouth of the USB pointing away from you, and you'll see all the solder pads. The USB has 7 solder pads: 2 larger ones near the mouth of the port itself, and five smaller ones clustered together below. In my case, the five smaller solder points were cracked all the way around 3 of the five pins (you'll need a magnifying glass to see this). The two larger ones near the front were loose as well (the pad came right off the board when tapping the USB port itself.
If you don't know how to solder, get someone with experience and steady hands to do this for you. You'll need to very carefully apply a tiny bit of solder over the pads listed. Take care not to use too much, or you could link the pads together and cause a short. Again it will vary based on the damage, but in my case, I had to fill in the cracks around the five smaller points. I also touched up the two larger points near the mouth of the USB to ensure they didn't move.
Once this was done and I confirmed the board was working, I used a small amount of epoxy around the sides of the USB port. Take care not to let any get inside the USB port or this is all for nothing. Let the epoxy dry according to the instructions before you reassemble the keyboard.
Whew. This keyboard is FINALLY the way it should be, solidly constructed. That USB port has 0 wiggle room now, so no worries about the soldering taking the stress from movement.
My newer keyboard, of course, is working fine. However, I've purchased two right angle USB connectors from Newegg to replace the stock cables that came with the board, one for each keyboard. I certainly don't want to go through soldering again.
I'll secure the wire to the board with zip ties or something else, I'm not sure just yet.
Save your money, buy another brand.
Other Thoughts: I'd given this keyboard five eggs before, but given all the grief (and the many other reviewers who've complained about the same problem), I'm knocking it down to 2 eggs. The placement of the USB port is ridiculous, and if Rosewill isn't going to change the layout, they should at LEAST glue the USB port down so it cannot move and put stress on the solder pads. I'm spending the extra five bucks on a right angle cable (which frankly they should've included given all the problems with this connector).
Despite the headaches, I bought a new one because I still love the way it types and because I'm confident I can repair this one as well should it suffer the same fate as my old one. I'm tempted to just open the darn thing now and glue the USB port down so it cannot move, but that will void my warranty, and other folks have complained about individual keys failing (yikes!) so I guess I'll hang in there for the three years. Once that's up, you can bet I'm going to crack this one open too and glue the USB port down.
Pros: Reliable and not buggy. I can't say how many wireless routers I've gone through for clients that blew up in less than a year and had buggy problems (like needing a reboot once a day). When I install these, I never hear from the client again. I've had one myself for 3+ years now.
Speed for this is incredible. I challenge everyone who says you MUST have N draft for things like high def video streaming. One of my clients bragged about how they had streaming high def video to TWO computers and handle online games from a third computer (first person shooter stuff, high bandwidth requirements).
Also it can be flashed with third party firmware, though this voids the warranty (like you'd even need the warranty).
Cons: No N draft. Not really a con, since N draft wasn't around when this hit the shelves, but they need to make a version with N draft. Only because people expect it, and darn but I want to recommend a router that I know will stand the test of time.
Other Thoughts: Once again, I strongly believe the reason an N draft version of this router hasn't come out is because they're not going to make any money if people don't buy a replacement every year. Linksys has a darn rock solid router here. And for the current price of $50, you CAN'T go wrong!READ FULL REVIEW