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This review is from: NF-F12 iPPC-3000 PWM Fan with Focused Flow™ and SSO2 Bearing, Retail
Pros: Noctua fans without tan lines!
3000 RPM... mother of.. son of...
Dropped my cpu temps by at least 7c on idle, and I'd say around 10c on load.
I am pretty sure they are the best fans money can buy while maintaining a respectable noise/performance ratio. (Other than the 140mm version of this fan which is completely insane overkill)
They are very quiet 1500-1800rpm, above that you can hear them, but its just air moving. I admit at 3000rpm, they can be pretty loud, but they will only rev up that high when you need them which I like.
Cons: Although they finally made some fans without tan color, Noctua still leaves room to desire in the aesthetics department. At least I can do a little painting if I get tired of the full black because they are a blank canvas. For almost 30 bucks a pop, LEDs would make these fans the absolute best for multiple crowds.
Other Thoughts: I have 2 of them on my hyper 212 evo, on push/pull obviously. I swear my non overclocked 3570k never goes above 45c on load. Yes, that means I am going to push the clock and see what I can get. They destroy the brush bearing xigamateks that I had before which were by far the loudest fans I have ever heard. My computer is whisper quiet now when I am just browsing the web, listening to music, or whatever light duty I am doing and it keeps it cooler. I also have the security of knowing that when I do push my system, these bad boys know how to kick it up and perform. Noise at that point doesn't matter to me as long as my baby stays cool. I'd have my headphones on most likely anyways.
I bought them else where from a major online retailer that starts with an A and ends with a N that is about 4 bucks cheaper. So yeah... the most I have ever spent on a fan, but you get what you pay for. Fans aren't insignificant... your system's performance, longevity, and stability rely on your cooling aka fans so take my advice and don't skimp! If you got the cash for these, go for it!
Pros: Velvet cable bag and the modular was nice.
Worked great while it lasted.
Cons: Died on me just recently after just over 6 months of use. My pc shuts down as soon as any game is loaded. No errors, blue screen, or anything just shuts off. When I bought this higher end power supply from a reputable company I was expecting great quality that I obviously didn't get. 750w at 90% efficiency is more than enough for my system.
Other Thoughts: This is the first time I have ever had to RMA a pc part. Very disappointing coming from a company like this.
gtx 670 PE msi
256bg samsung 830 series
2x4g Gkill 1600mhz at cas 8
Pros: BF3 runs at max settings with tessellation, txaa, and physics controlled by the gpu it runs at 61-65fps. I tried out virtu MVP because I had a compatible mobo with an ivybridge 3570k. The results were an increase of 10-20fps running at 75-85fps overall at the same settings. Only downside was the fact that you have to pay for the virtu software. This thing runs very very cool compared to older gpus. Mine runs at 48-56c on load while playing bf3 at 50-60% fan speed which is barely audible. My case has excellent air cooling (thermaltake Chaser MK-1) 200mm on the side with a 120 on the bottom. Honestly this card is all you need sli would be silly and a waste of 430 bucks. In my opinion I think virtu MVP is worth it. Gives quite a boost and ensures you will never dip below 60fps at max. Plus it increases user responsiveness supposedly, but I can't really tell.
Cons: Like I said in my last review the only complaint I have is the sagging of the card. It could have really used a back plate for support. Oh yeah and of course the power connectors.
Other Thoughts: I am seeing more people are having issues with artifacting and crashes. Keep in mind that this issue is not just with this particular model, but with many other aftermarket 670s as well. I'm thinking either their power supplies aren't strong enough or it may just be a lower end gpu that can't run at oc settings. All these gpus come at different clocks like mine boosts to 1202 which is very very good for a out of the box stable clock. Check your power supplies, wattage is only half of the requirement needed. Look at amps and rails. Single rail is usually ideal and I would say 60-70amps is probably a safe bet.(mid 50s would probably work as well) I have a reliable Corsair HX750 rated at 62amps with a 90% efficiency rating and I have had 0 issues. No crashes no artifacts. Don't build a high end system and skimp on the power supply with a off brand cheapo, unreliable, piece of junk. To the guy who fried his card... I am speechless...READ FULL REVIEW
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