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Pros: Good surge suppression, does what it's supposed to do for the most part. Long power cord makes routing easy and simplifies putting the suppressor where it's needed. Lots of sockets to plug stuff into. Good indicator lights tell you if things are properly grounded or not.
Cons: I bought two of these for the Ethernet connection features. I have a shop/office detached from my home and there's a long run of Ethernet Cat6 underground in a conduit to the building. With that large linear exposure to lightning I needed something that would not only block grid surges but Ethernet surges from lightning near misses also. So I got two of these ...
The problem is the Ethernet connections will not support Gigabit speeds, they only do 10/100. The media server and main server for everything in the house and detached shop/office are in that shop/office and they need Gb/s speed. The rest of the network is Gb/s and these Belkin suppressors drop the whole thing back down to 10/100 Mb/s speeds.
I have a lot of very expensive electronic and computer equipment in that shop. I did a LOT of shopping around before I bought these suppressors to protect that stuff. NO WHERE in any of the literature or item descriptions does anything say "10/100 Mb/S ONLY". I figured these would be a straight pass-through for data with a suppression circuit in line. They're not.
Of course I didn't know that until I got them, mounted and installed them, and hooked 'em up. Then I noticed network issues all over my network. During troubleshooting I discovered the big 24 port switches in the network closet that attach to the punch-down panels were showing yellow lights instead of green ones on the connection to the shop/office. Where the servers are.
Other Thoughts: I wouldn't have bought these knowing what I know now. I also know now to be sure that any Ethernet equipped suppressor will support Gb/s speeds. As a work-around I put patch cables in the suppressors to the Ethernet switches in the shop and ONLY connect them when bad weather threatens. Which is no help at all if any other kind of surge hits those Ethernet cables. Other surges are much less likely and nothing is going to protect you from a direct hit by lightning. Still, I've gone to fairly elaborate lengths to do as much as I can in that regard and these suppressors are a huge weak point and a major disappointment.READ FULL REVIEW
Pros: Light operates independently of other lights while on AC power, so I can shut this one off, or dim it, or turn it on without any effect on the status of other lights on that circuit.
At loss of power, if the circuit was energized when the power went out, this light stays lit. If not you can turn it on with the remote. Big plus here as it's enough light to find flashlights and candles etc. without fumbling around in the dark looking for such things.
Functions properly on a circuit that has an LED dimmer switch in line. The LED dimmer switch on the wall does not dim this light but the remote control settings still work, the light comes on and stays on at the low end of the dimmer, etc. So it works but you have to use the remote.
Good but not great light output, for what I use it for it works very well.
Cons: A little confusing about what to set the switch on the side of the light to in order to achieve the results you want.
Apparently, judging from other reviews, these are not all the same when shipped and/or the remote control isn't the same on all of them. Mine has an On button, an Off button, and four buttons marked 100%, 75%, 50% and 25% for the intensity or "dimmer" function.
While this light will work on a circuit with an LED wall switch dimmer, it comes on full power even when the dimmer switch on the wall is set at minimum. You can then turn it down to minimum (25%) with the remote. You're stuck with that at that point because after that the remote won't do anything. I suspect because there's not enough power in the bulb to allow it to respond to the remote when the wall dimmer switch is set to minimum.
Other Thoughts: I have this in one of four recessed light fixtures in my office. There are six monitors connected to my computer and one of them is a flat screen TV. So sometimes I want minimum lighting and NO lighting in the vicinity of the TV/Computer monitors, like to watch movies, make presentations, etc. That's why I bought this light. That's why this light is in a circuit with a wall mounted LED dimmer switch. For my purposes it does a wonderful job. I can turn it on or off with the remote, I can vary the intensity- because that recessed fixture is directly over my keyboard this is important to me.
And it comes on all by itself when the power goes out. It will ALSO stay on all by itself if it's lit when the wall switch is turned off and then it will stay on until you shut it off with the remote control. I'll probably NEVER climb up on a ladder to get it out of the recessed ceiling fixture to use it for a flashlight. I have lots of high quality flashlights. As emergency lighting and as a controllable light in the vicinity of multimedia hardware it's great and I'm very happy with it.
Still, it does seem a bit expensive for what it is. I hope it lasts a long time, then I'll have gotten the value of what I paid for it out of it.
This review is from: TP-LINK TL-SG105 Unmanaged 5-Port Gigabit Desktop Switch, Metal Case, Power-Saving
Pros: Very solidly built with sturdy metal case.
The switch is completely uncomplicated to use and has auto-sensing ports so you don't have to guess- connect any port to anything Ethernet and as long as you don't create a loop somewhere this little guy will handle it for you.
After over a week on my network acting as a bridge between my two main Ethernet switches and an up-link to my router it's still cool to the touch.
Cons: There's no way to set this up without wires coming out of both ends of it. The power connection is in the back, the Ethernet ports are in the front, and the link state lights are either side of their respective Ethernet ports on the front. This for my purposes makes it suitable only for placement where it won’t or can’t be seen.
As for the "power saving" feature, I couldn't address that, very few switches (like none) on my network would ever go into a power saving mode, they're all carrying some load all the time. This switch is supposed to increase or decrease power output according to cable length also. On my network I'd rather that all switches are at maximum performance all the time. If you are running a business network you also want full performance 24/7. The tiny bit of difference in power consumption a "green" network switch makes isn't going to save any pygmies or rain forests.
It's a bit pricey for a 5 port switch, if you watch for sales on NewEgg you can get a good quality eight port switch for about the same price as this one or maybe even a little less.
Other Thoughts: I have a home network and an office/shop in a detached building, all linked by Cat6 and networked with approximately 50 or so nodes on the network. 16 of those nodes are IP security cameras, the rest are computers, DVR-type devices, printers, etc.
To give this switch a good workout I used it to bridge my two main Ethernet switches and from there up-link to my router. This has the effect of placing 50% of my network traffic including at least half of the security camera streams and 100% of my internet traffic including two Ooma VOIP devices as load on this little switch. That's a lot of load for a 5 port switch and it's constant, the switch get's no break at all and is running flat out 24/7. That's all 5 ports full, one each to a larger Ethernet switch, one to each of two Ooma VOIP devices, one up-link to the internet router.
If the switch had a load issue it would show up in camera lag/jerky video and problems with VOIP communications.
It never broke a sweat and there was no loss of signal quality anywhere across the network. Other people have tested the file throughput and you can read about that in their reviews so I decided that for testing purposes I'd go this route and check the real world use of this switch instead of just timing some file transfers. The switch did an excellent job. I have no complaints on it's performance at all.
What I don't like about the switch is the fact that power goes in the back and the Ethernet cables connect in the front. While that IS the way my larger Ethernet switches are set up in my network closet where they connect to the punch-down panels, they're big switches hidden in the closet.
I generally use 5 port switches at the terminus of a drop, which is to say in a room in the house or office somewhere. I LIKE to see the little blinking lights because they tell me if there's a problem. I can't set this switch where it's easy to observe because it has cables coming out of both ends. If you were to mount this to a wall, say behind an entertainment center or a desk that might not even be a concern. So because this is a personal preference of mine I didn't take an egg off for it and I'll stick this switch up in the attic to connect some IP cameras where it won't be seen. For that purpose it's a very good switch.
The reason I took an Egg off is the price. I don't think this switch is a particularly good value at the price listed as I write this.
Claims of "greenness" in products like this irritate me. The switch draws 9 volts DC at 0.6 amps according to the markings on the transformer. That's less power than a 9 volt battery puts out. Yes, it's a 24/7 draw but still, you're not going to materially improve the environment by buying "green" 5 port switches. What you get with circuitry designed this way is another potential failure point.
To sum up- It's a very good switch, it seems to be well made, it's going in my attic because of the way it's laid out, and it's a bit pr