Pros: ¤ Plenty of room for cable management. I mean this! I have a cougar A760 Power supply that's Non-Modular and was designed for the older SLI/X-Fire systems. It has 2 6-pin, 2 6+2-pin, 20+4-Pin, 8 SATA connectors, 6 4-Pin Molex, and a floppy connector. You can't see ANY of the cables through the holes because there was enough room to route them all in a way to where they're all held down with the zip tie points (which there are PLENTY of!) ¤ Cable Management area behind the motherboard is approximately half an inch thick, so you can fit a nice amount of things back there before you're putting any weight on the back to get it to stay on. ¤ PSU bay is plenty large enough to install the PSU before the cables for your Audio, Power LED's, etc. without having to worry about it being in the way. ¤ Holds my ASUS GTX 780 DCUII TOP with NO clearance issues whatsoever. I have about 8" from the end of the GPU to the front of the case as a matter of fact. Could EASILY hold any GPU I can think of. ¤Front Fans push a fairly decent amount of air - I know that some other reviews have said they didn't, but let's be honest, for the fact that they're the ACTUAL Cooler Master "MasterFan Pro 120 Air BalanceRGB" fans not a "cheaper alternative - Can you really complain that you got three of them for free? ¤Comes with four fans (Granted, the 4th isn't RGB, but honestly, get over it. You paid ~$60 for three decent RGB fans and a tempered glass case with a PSU Shroud.) ¤ Fits ATX motherboards (VERY tightly, but it fits my current motherboard without a problem. (See Con 2) ¤ Side and bottom mesh on the front panel is removable via a lock tab that you depress then slide the mesh, and holder out. (See Con 3) ¤ RGB lights on the fans aren't overly bright, and there's NOTHING behind the fan blades, so you get good, clean airflow throughout the case. ¤ PSU Shroud has ventilation holes in the front to allow the fans to push air into the shroud bay so that your HDDs get airflow and don't overheat. ¤ Tempered Glass is held up by a rail on the bottom, and two thumbscrews on the top. This prevents a large possibility of "whoops, OH DANG!" moments. The thumbscrews are held in place by rubber grommets that appear to be VERY well fitted. You CAN pick the TG up by the screws, but honestly, I use the edges, it's safer.

Cons: ¤ Color reproduction on the LED's is somewhat lacking. I found that the primaries come through nice, and clean, but the mixes (Aside form Purple) have a very lackluster feel to them. White allows you to see every color that's blending to mix with it, so that's a bit of a down side. It still looks good, but it's more of a warm white than a cool, TRUE white. ¤ My MSI B450 Gaming Plus is RIGHT against the top of the PSU shroud, and my old MSI 970 Gaming motherboard was slightly larger than this one in height, and width, so I'm NOT sure if ALL ATX motherboards will fit in this case. It wouldn't surprise me if someone found themselves in the situation where they need to RMA due to this. However, it worked for mine, so I can't knock off an egg over a ghost possibility. ¤ The VERY Front mesh is NOT in a removable system like the bottom, and sides, and therefore you will either have to stress the metal tabs by bending it out, and back in, or you will have to rinse or blow out the whole front mesh as an individual unit with the plastic housing. This is a bit of a pain, but not a reason to knock a star off in my opinion. If worse comes to worst, and the mesh breaks I'll just replace it with Acrylic or use magnets to hold it in place. ¤ The SSD Thumbscrews can be tightened down PAST the threads, which initially led me to believe that I'd stripped the screw or case, but neither was the case. A small measurement issue, but honestly not that important. I'm not even sure why they put it on a platform that screws down. It's an SSD. It doesn't move... ¤ NONE of the holes aligned with my MSI B450 Gaming Plus Motherboard, and as such, I had to bend the USB 3 front header at a REALLY extreme angle to even remotely hide the cable, and getting the 24-Pin required the same thing. Honestly once I started getting ready to install all the cables I'd considered just creating one massive channel for each end of the motherboard.

Overall Review: **EDITED 01/22/2019** ¤ 2 of my front RGB fans have started to give bearing grind - I've contacted Cooler Master Support (Ticket #: 00135617) and am awaiting a response. I hope that they're able to just send out two fans because I'm not dismantling my build just to send back an entire case over two fans that are bad.) I'll update this review once the resolution is given. All in all, this is a clean looking case, with a nice set of "premium" features without the premium cost. I've had over 25 cases in the last ten years, and some of them were over 200 dollars, and still didn't impress me the way this case did. For the price, (Honestly, I'd pay for it again up to around $75) it's not in any way a bad case. It does have its quirks, but most of them are nitpicks, and some of them Cooler Master can't control (like the cables not lining up tot he motherboard. Everyone puts their connectors in different places, so I can't fault CM for that.

Pros: ¤Lightweight ¤Widest band I've had on a headset in YEARS (Great for people with glasses.) ¤Relatively loud (After you turn up the application, headset, and computer all the way) ¤Mostly black ¤Discrete Microphone ¤Foldable ¤ Somewhat full range (50hz - 20Khz) [FULL Range is 20hz - 20Khz]) ¤ Fairly decent range depending on the area your receiver is in ¤ Bluetooth compatible with smartphones as a Stereo Bluetooth Headset (Doesn't work for calls though.) ¤ 40mm Drivers ¤ Noise Cancelling ¤ On-Ear Controls - The right ear contains Volume Up, Volume Down (blue circle) a mute mic button, and also the power. Kind of cool, but they could have easily done better. (See Cons) ¤ Lithium Ion battery giving up to 6 hours of run time at max volume, so I'm guessing somewhere in the range of around 2300mah. (See Cons)

Cons: ¤ Material - I'm seriously scared I'll break these things by looking at them (although they've survived my 1yo that loves to wear them constantly so far so who knows.) ¤ Receiver - I got these from a friend, and actually had to disassemble the receiver he sent with them as Logitech gave him another set, and adapter. (See Other thoughts) ¤ Receiver is REQUIRED for use - and is NOT replaceable according to Logitech unless you are under warranty...WOW...way to jip your customers. ¤Even though they're Bluetooth Logitech decided to jip you again by stating that you wouldn't get the software on-board to make this not only a stereo headphone via Bluetooth, but also a stereo HEADSET. In other words if you use a regular Bluetooth USB Dongle, or a smartphone the ONLY thing you can use these for is media...no calls, no Skype, no VoIP, no nothing. ¤ Bluetooth - Even though they're Bluetooth which is good, it's NOT the best anymore, and it's sad to see them using older technology just to accommodate the general public, even though they really didn't considering everything they prevented you from doing. They could have easily used a 5 GHz band for these instead on the Radio Frequency, but didn't, and because of that the range IS crippled. Even though Bluetooth has an advertised range of 10m (33ft) Believe me when I say that you'll almost NEVER get more than a 15 foot shot in any given situation. ¤ Levels - The bass is muddy, and DOES mute the speakers if boosted too much. ¤ Microphone - The shape is ODD...If you look at the tip of it it looks Hollow...W..T..F..? Why that was necessary I'll NEVER know especially considering that it'll just cause more noise to infiltrate the microphone guard due to the echo of the "tunnel" that it's in. ¤ Battery - Irreplaceable (officially) and also proprietary, so you'd have to find a place to freaking buy one even IF you got the headset open to replace it (Good luck doing either.) ¤ Battery Point 2 - The charging cable that comes with this from what i hear is a JOKE in length, so you may want to look at that, however, it DOES use MicroUSB just like almost EVERY android phone, and even some electronic cigarettes that are on the market, so that's not too bad. ¤ On-Ear Controls - These are good, and bad. I say bad because the volume up, and volume down are ENTIRELY too easy to accidentally hit, and not even know that you were until they're muted, and you're left looking around like a blind monkey with hypersensitive smell trying to grab a banana through a window.

Overall Review: All in all these are very decent headphones for the price, and purpose considering the style, and weight, or level of uncomfortable pain that I've been in with both other Bluetooth, and regular wired headsets. However, in my professional opinion, due tot he combination of muddy sound that's only clear at certain levels, and tinny highs topped off with the combination of cumulative problems that you may end up having I'd say to stay away from these, and look into the clear chat series as it's got a wireless that works a LOT better, and as it's circumaural it'll block out more noise, and has WAY better sound and better response frequencies. To those that are having issues with the adapter just randomly deciding it wants to disconnect when it hasn't moved try this: Take a small precision screwdriver (flat head) or thin pocket knife kind of like your grandfather carried, and break the metal shield on the USB dongle that has the "Teeth" in it (on the bottom of the receiver part that plugs in you'll see what I'm talking about.) Be VERY careful when popping it off because all of the cmos chips, transistors, and resistors, and capacitors are on this side, so if you pop one it's toast completely.) After you've removed the shield you'll see one side that has four "gold" pins extending toward the edge of the USB dongle. This is the USB connection that you'll need to scrape clean (VERY lightly) and then slightly push out of the blue receptacle that it's in so that it extends past the edge just a hair instead of being flush. After you've done that keep the shield off, and re-plug it into your computer **NOTE** Removing the shield removes the ground on the USB Dongle and CAN possibly shock you so don't be ignorant and grab at the dongle's electronics while it's plugged in (which you shouldn't be able to do anyways, but just in case you need to know.) Mine's been working fine for the last hour consistently after doing these exact steps. Before I performed this it would work at best for ten seconds.

Pros: ¤ Large enough surface area for proper heat dissipation. I'm not sure if it'll work on higher end CPU's well, but I suppose that time will tell regarding that as it's just a matter of time before I upgrade. ¤ Comes with TWO fans - This is a LOT more rare than you think on air coolers for some reason that I'll NEVER understand because it's been proven time and time again that push-pull configurations increase CFM, and assist in alleviating the static pressure concerns that some people have on lower quality fans. - HOWEVER! This comes with an annotation in that there has been some research done (I haven't done my own) that suggests that due to the "separated tower" design of this cooler it actually performs slightly better with fans on the outside of the fin arrays blowing air into the MIDDLE. Obviously this is only going to work if your case has adequate top ventilation, but it may be worth keeping in mind, and results will vary depending on the relative location of your GPU, Case ventilation, GPU orientation, and fan design, and many, MANY other things, so feel free to experiment with it. ¤ Heatpipe covers are removable. ¤ 'Chrome' (Most likely nickel looking at the color of it) finish isn't gaudy, while retaining the reflective properties you'd expect from a mirror polish without being 100% reflective - almost as if there were a satin coating on it, but there doesn't appear to be. This makes it a lot less of an eyesore than you think it's going to be when you first unbox it, and see the shiny reflective surface, even in cases that contain numerous RGB lights - In fact, one thing I've found I actually quite enjoy is that the black plastic heatpipe covers are actually angled just right to reflect the RGB lights from above it mounted within my case making for some unique visual attraction. ¤ Mounting system is similar to the Gammaxx GT in that you connect the backplate via a "primary mounting system" that is separate from the cooler itself meaning you don't have to hold a massive tower in place while trying to screw it in! ¤ The 'chrome' stickers that come with it ARE metal - and I actually just sent off an email to Deepcool to see if there's a way to get more of them since I accidentally broke one trying to get it off after positioning a fan wrong, and the spring metal used to mount the fans cracked one...(NOT HAPPY.) However, they're also OPTIONAL, and are situated within the box itself as an "accessory" instead of forcing users to use them if they don't want to (although they don't look bad at all.) ¤ Cools excellent. My Ryzen 5 3600 clocked at 4.2Ghz all core @1.35v maintains an idle temperature with a delta around 5-7 degrees celcius above ambient room temperature, and during gaming rarely ever touches 65 celcius. Prime 95 Small FFT provides me with temperatures in excess of 70c but that's to be expected as it's literally doing nothing more than stressing the CPU with number crunching. ¤ The heatsink FINS clear my RAM in the slot closest to my CPU on an MSI B450 Gaming Pro Carbon AC - RAM is Corsair Dominator Pro RGB - That said there's a caveat in that you won't see that stick of ram UNDER the heatfins.

Cons: ¤ It's MASSIVE - Coming in at EXACTLY 165mm tall from point of contact it WILL fit in cases that have a 165mm cooler height restriction such as the MB511 but there's a caveat. If you use taller RAM such as the Corsair Dominator Pro like I do you'll run into the issue that you'll be unable to use the included '140mm fans' (They're actually 138mm but that's not really important albeit annoying that I can't mount them to my case because I rather like the way they look. The spring fasteners WILL work on 120mm fans just fina, but fans with thick housing or rubber mounts to silence vibration such as the ML120 Pro will have a BIT of trouble getting the spring steel situated but it's doable. ¤ If you intend to use this CPU Cooler with a Vertical GPU mount it's doable, but it takes a bit of work. If you go the route of 'modding' your case to have vertical GPU use the Phanteks Vertical GPU riser because even though it SAYS it needs a 7 PCI bay case it doesn't, it actually only uses 5. I have the RTX 2080 Super MSI Gaming X Trio mounted on it, and the edge of that card is level with the top of the 7th PCI slot and this is why this is a con... The CPU cooler is MASSIVE, and as such the heatsink's fins are actually TOUCHING my GPU's backplate. While installing them together I had to actually loosen the cpu heatsink, and push down on the graphics card to ensure that the Assassin 3 didn't scratch the PCB, or backplate of my GPU. It's doable, but it's going to take some work (and no, it doesn't affect thermals either way, and that says a LOT about this CPU Cooler IMHO since I've got this GPU overclocked and pushing nearly 300w TDP and it's TOUCHING it, and not affecting temps at all. ¤ The fans included with this will NOT fit in a "165mm cpu cooler height" restricted case if you have a motherboard that has VRM cooling, IO Shield cover plates, "armor" or tall RAM, so keep that in mind. From my math you'd need a case with at LEAST 175mm and even then depending on the motherboard's VRM heatsink and IO shield design that number might go up even more. ¤ The fins are SLIGHTLY sharp, but surprisingly, although there were a few times I was near certain I'd cut myself, I didn't, not a single time, and considering the amount of work it took to install this with my GPU in its current configuration it's almost hard to list this as a con, but it should be mentioned because those with psoriasis or eczema might find it a bit more painful than I did. ¤ The stickers that come with it are THIN metal, and as such can be broken rather easily, and since it only comes with two that kind of sucks. There's also no real "way' or guide on how to line them up, so what I did was tape a piece of paper down and used the writing lines on it to ensure it was straight then lined the stickers up with that. ¤ No RGB - This MAY be a downside for some, but for me, personally I find it rather elegant, understated, and as the same time dominant, and imposing. I love the way this thing looks, but the OPTION for RGB could have been designed into it fairly easily, and once I get my 3d Printer I'll be printing more heatpipe covers for this with built in RGB support just to see how I like the look of an RGB logo there instead of chrome. ¤ The fans will cover RAM, so while you have adequate clearance, you might not get to see that treasured RGB goodness unless you're viewing it from an angle. ¤ The 2-screw mounting system SEEMS like it may provide less than desirable tension around the sides of CPU's and since Ryzen is built with "chiplets" and Intel's moving toward them too this COULD be an issue later, HOWEVER, the way it's designed you can manipulate it by a few millimeters each direction to see if that helps temps any. ¤ The largest con - and it's a big one - If you find yourself in a position where you can only use the fan in the middle due to clearance reasons, don't have extra fans lying in a bin like I do, and have to (or want to) use the stock included 138mm fan in the MIDDLE of the heat towers there is one MASSIVE. GLARING. ISSUE. The fan has a gap between the two towers roughtly 12.5mm in width meaning that it's almost guaranteed that NO air is going to go through the tower that you're going to be blowing towards. I tested this to see if it was in fact going to affect performance, and it does. Some sort of cover for the middle to ensure this wasn't an issue, or even slightly thicker fan bodies could have fixed this limitation and con, so hopefully if they make a 2nd revision Deepcool will consider it. I'll be directing them to this review once it's published to inform their staff since thir social media team, and I have a decent relationship as I'm always building with their products, and interacting with their social media competitions.

Overall Review: This cooler can't be beat - No, really, it can't. The Deepcool Assassin III is THE best air cooler tested on the market, and slightly (almost within margin of error) beats the Noctua NH-D15 which has been the "king of air cooling" for over half a decade now. There ARE AIO's that perform better, but they're 360mm ones (and some 240s) and those may not be ideal for any number of reasons whether it be concerns of leaking, fitment, design, or the fact that they remove so much heat so well that they tend to warm up the room they are in. I haven't seem many reviews of this against thicker 120mmx35-50mm radiators, but I'd imagine they'd be VERY close in performance based off my knowledge of the math, and numbers. If you like the way it looks, get it. You will not be disappointed.

Pros: ¤ 240mm Radiator (See Cons) ¤ SILENT Pump ¤ Great Cooling (See Other Thoughts for Details) ¤ Plenty of Screws for any mounting scenario. ¤ Amazing Packaging detail. (See Other thoughts #2) ¤ Idiot Proof Mounting Brackets for AMD, and Intel. (See Cons.) ¤ Simplicity in Design (See Other Thoughts #3) ¤ Blue LED ¤ Rubber Fan Silencer (See cons)

Cons: ¤ Radiator MOUNT is aluminum (Or at least it strips as easily...Yeah...that was pretty stupid in my opinion, Cooler Master. I had to modify my case slightly to get the rad to fit, and apparently didn't sand smooth enough so when I tried to mount the fourth screw on my 240m is stripped the contact. LUCKILY I'm an insane DIY'er and know many ways to fix this, but the average Joe may not; and the MOUNT of a LIQUID RADIATOR should be secure. ¤ The AMD Mounting System...This is both a pro and a con, so I've listed the cons here, and pros above: Cons: Nearly IMPOSSIBLE to mount by yourself without doing some SEVERE Jerry Rigging if the motherboard is in your case, and you have a cutout allowing you to put it on with cable management room behind it. Unless the motherboard is lying flat on something the install will be nearly impossible since there are pressure fits on each side of the screw/mounting bracket. ¤ Radiator: The radiator could have been thicker. Although it does do a GREAT Job at keeping my 1100t cool even at 151 watts of draw I just love the ability to do better things with a thicker rad. The Fold spacing on it is great, but does amount to a LOT of coil Whine when in full speed. It also would have been nice to have known as this was my first time jumping into Water Cooling that a 240mm Radiator is NOT the same setup as two 120mm fans that are side by side. On the radiator the fans sit nestled side by side without a gap, whereas in most computer system (MOST) they have a small gap between them. This means that there's only ONE way to make the radiator fit your case, and that's by tearing into the steel that the case fans were mounted to in order to make the holes larger. **NOTE**DO NOT BE "That Guy" AND BORE HOLES/SAND/CUT/GRIND/MODIFY YOUR CASE AT ALL WITH COMPONENTS INSIDE! Steel is HIGHLY conductive (EVEN IF IT'S PAINTED ONCE YOU SHAVE A LAYER OFF THERE ARE PARTS THAT AREN'T PAINTED AND WHO'S TO SAY THAT PAINT IS A GOOD INSULATOR?), and if so much as a tiny flake lands on your stuff you'll be sweating bullets trying to put out the fire you just created by trying to shave 30 minutes off your project time. Not to mention a very sad bunny once you figure out that the wonderful radiator you just bought caused you to have to modify your case, which in turn made you lose your precious 600 dollar graphics card that isn't covered by accidental shortage. Don't be lazy, do it the safe way, sand when you're done boring, and make sure to dust the case out, and use a neodymium magnet, or the likes to get all the small parts that may have magnetized from the grinding, and are loosely attached to your case via electromagnetic field. ¤ Coil Whine: When this thing hits full speed believe me you WILL know. The computer it's in is in a fairly crowded office with a lot of furniture, two desks, and three computers, and when it's on full blast I can close the room door that's approximately ten feet away from it, walk about 5 ft aw

Overall Review: 1. The Seidon 240m Keeps my processor amazingly cool. I am running an 1100T and was testing a 4.5Ghz overclock while running a mere 42c @1.5 Volts when my motherboards VRM's decided to pop because they'd gotten so hot. In other words, this kept my processor cool enough to COMPLETELY make me forget about my VRM's which were getting so insanely hot trying to maintain that they literally burst under the pressure. Granted, they're cheapo VRM's, but that board (MSI 870s-G46) had taken an Athlon II x4 640 to 4.0Ghz without breaking a sweat. I guess the phenom was just too much for it though. Ambient temps in my case average around 29-35c seeing as the room my system is isn't very well insulated, and is also beside the garage that is a heat trap in North West Texas. Temp idle is roughly 29-31c while under load it tops out at an amazing 35-40 depending on ambient room temp. This is while running standard 3.7ghz Turbo Core since the spare mobo I have can't handle a small overclock at all. 2. Even my fans were in bags, although I'd have liked to have seen them wrapped in foam instead. However, the design of the fan fins pretty much prevents any foreseeable damage occurring while in it's package thanks to the way they're set in the box. 3. The Design of this all around is nice. I like and appreciate the industrial-type look that Cooler Master gave this cooler, and even more so LOVE the fact that they give you a fill port for later use if you're past your warranty. What I DON'T love about the design though, is the incredibly rigid tubing. Who in their right mind thought that PLASTICS were a good design for coolant to traverse through at any amount of speed? Granted Rubber hoses break down, but they give you flexibility that plastics just...can't. The rigidity of these hoses is absolutely ridiculous. I can barely get a 30 degree turn on them to the top of my case ( Sentey Abaddom II) Granted, some of that is my fault as I've got a case that's NOT radiator friendly in the top space, but there's still a good 6 inches of room and rubber would have worked a hundred times better in my scenario. 4. Coil Whine: While it IS pretty loud. (Sound meters put it right near 76db from 1ft away) it's MUCH more tolerable than the 60db levels of static wind pressure coming through grated fan grills for sure. I'm QUITE used to the friendly hum of a well cooled computer, and am not impartial to it by any means; but the coil whine on the Seidon DEFINITELY makes things a little easier to handle without getting a migraine (FOR ME.) 5. Coil Whine: Really "intolerable" after about 65-75% speed and higher on the fans. The odds of you cooking your processor enough to NEED that are pretty low. Honestly unless you're running a VERY hot high end intel chip then it shouldn't need to get above 50% to effectively cool your processor. If the fan speeds start getting HIGHLY noticeable then odds are something is wrong, and it's time to RMA. **EDIT 1/27/2019** I performed a "tube-mod" on this about 6 months after purchasing. The tubing was 3/8" Inner Diameter, and 1/2" outer (iirc.) Oc(dot)net has plenty of information on how to do this. Even WITH nearly 6 feet of tubing, and a swiftech MCRes v2 attached to the line this cooler did a great job across 3 CPU's, and 3 GPU's before I finally traded it to an older gentleman that wanted to give me an SSD for it so he could put it on a display shelf because he thought it looked "cool." This was in 2016, roughly 4 years after purchase, and this thing was STILL kicking out water with zero issues. It DID weaken a bit by then, but that's to be expected after all the crud I'd put it through. To anyone on the fence about this cooler, you'd have to be nuts not to consider it.

Pros: ¤ My Ryzen 5 2600, and MSI B450 Gaming Plus recognized this RAM without a hiccup. ¤ Currently Overclocked to 3Ghz @C16 and still cool as can be. ¤ Minimalist design isn't overly aggressive and sits relatively the same height as the bottom of my fan on the Wraith Stealth, so nearly ANY cooler SHOULD work with this RAM. ¤ *EDIT* I have managed to get this ram clocked to 2936Mhz @ with the following timings: 14CL-16tRDC-16tRP-32tRAS @ COmmand Rate 1, which I'd say is pretty darn honorable considering these are *NOT* Samsung B-Die Chips, but are Hynix which most seem to think "Don't play well with Ryzen." I've run memtext x86 completely to check for problems with absolutely none. This doesn't mean that your sticks will do these exact overclocks, but it's worth noting that they're VERY well binned from my experience. ¤ The heatsinks are approximately 1mm taller than the RAM modules themselves, so clearance will NEVER be an issue with aftermarket CPU coolers.

Cons: ¤ The only con I have regarding this RAM might be more attributed to the motherboard or BIOS - but upon the first installation and boot the RAM was clocked at 2133Mhz. XMP Profiles allowed it to EASILY be clocked back to 2666, but it's kind of an annoyance to have to double check that things are performing as anticipated. However, given the fact that I could clock this to 3Ghz and save money, and time (since NewEgg was sold out of the 3Ghz at the time of me buying this) I'm DEFINITELY NOT going to take an egg off for this.

Overall Review: If you're building any kind of minimalist system, or HTPC, mini-ITX, etc. this is a GREAT solution for your box. The coolers sit a mere 1mm away from the top of the ram and do a sufficient job of cooling the banks. They're in no way warm to the touch even with my clocks, and timings.

Pros: ¤ 65W TDP that runs more efficiently during Gaming, Rendering and Rasterizing than my FX-8370 Did at 4.5Ghz ¤ Wraith Stealth Cooler actually keeps this thing REALLY cool considering the all aluminum block ¤ Cooler is nice and quiet until you're REALLY into the workload - Gaming doesn't really crank it up much at all. ¤ 6 Cores, 12 Threads at 65 Watts - Really, can we ask for anything better? ¤ Gamer Performance was a notable jump, and now the bottleneck in my system is my GTX 780 even though it's clocked at 1294 Core.

Cons: ¤ The Stock Cooler cannot be rotated so that "AMD" is facing up on the AM4 mount - Seriously, that's a LARGE oversight, and really annoying. ¤ The stock cooler was somewhat broken when it arrived. There's a screw right below the "AMD" logo that was broken the plastic below it. The cover still sits perfectly fine and doesn't move, so I'm not even sure what purpose they had put it there. Unnecessary development costs if you ask me...

Overall Review: Running Styx Shards of Darkness I monitored all the cores of this CPU, and the performance was INSANE. Over 90FPS on MAX settings with my GTX 780 @ 1294 Core and I still wasn't at 30% CPU Usage MAN, I'm glad I dumped my FX-8370 for this!

I already knew not to buy from a marketplace seller, and other than this item NEVER have for this very reason. I purchased this drive for my mother-in-law with her card for a laptop I was refurbishing for her. The drive was listed as "New" even though CrystalDiskInfo clearly stated it had 10 power-on hours, and the pins were OBVIOUSLY inserted into a SATA controller prior to my unboxing it. Furthermore, the drive was in an Anti-Static bag, not even in the original box, didn't contain the warranty card, and was NOT STATED TO BE AN OEM DRIVE ANYWHERE ON THE LISTING. To make matters worse it took a WEEK to get shipped even though the label was printed the day after purchase, and EVERY attempt I made to contact the seller resulted in nothing. I eventually said "Screw it" and did what I do best, looked up the company's registrant information, then found out his personal cell number, and called it, and left a voicemail stating that if my hard drive wasn't in the post office's hands by Wednesday morning (72 business hours- as it was Friday) I was going to file a fraud claim because it was absolute malarkey. Sure enough, Tuesday morning USPS dropped it off. Funny how that works, isn't it? Having to call someone on their personal cell phone and basically issue a threat to them just to get an item that isn't even in the condition of what you ordered... Un-freaking-acceptable. NewEgg needs to do away with this "marketplace" junk, and stop trying to get a cut off sales that are frauds.