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This review is from: LG 47" 1080p 120Hz Cinema 3D LED TV 47LM4600
Pros: This TV has a lot of what used to be higher-end features for the price: 3D, LED backlighting, and 47" screen size. Any review which says it is aweful is ridiculous obviously. They got a lemon or don't know what they are doing. LG TVs are rated highly for a reason. Except for the lowest end TVs (the no-name brands you never heard of), they all buy their panels from the same manufacturers.
The image/video quality seems very good to me, and I'd be willing to bet money that 95% of flat screen owners could not tell the difference between various TVs if they were all properly configured and a blind test was performed. Contrast can always be better. When watching analog sources (4x3 aspect ratio), if I do not select to "zoom" to fill the screen 100%, the "black bars" on the sides of the video are not 100% black. But black areas (a black suit for example) inside the actual video area look very dark.
I wish the special game mode worked better, but it's hardly a con seeing only LG supports it (right?):
Yesterday I tried out the special game mode which stretches out the split screen mode (xbox) to full screen. I created the gamer glasses by swapping lenses between two pairs of Real3D glasses (PS: had to flip the lens over to get it to work, so the lens shape does not fit perfectly).
The game mode works with modified 3D glasses (or you can buy them from LG). One player has two left lenses and the other has two right lenses (in other words, one players has two lenses of one polarization, and the other player has the opposite. So one player sees only the odd rows, and the other player sees the even rows - no more "cheating" in split screen mode!).
It worked well except the bleed-though or "ghosting" is higher than I anticipated based on the glowing reviews on youtube. During testing, I can "somewhat" see the other player's "scene" if I move that player. Of course my "scene" is much brighter - my glasses block over 90% of the other player's scene. During actual play, you mostly don't focus on the bleed-through, but a few times I noticed that was trying to see the other player's scene/view. I never saw well enough to cheat though, and I finally laid a whooping on my son now that he can't cheat. :-).
I put on the LG glasses and closed one eye at a time, and the bleedthrough was the same as with the modified Real3D glasses.
I have a kill-a-watt meter, but have not yet measured actual power usage. The old 27" CRT it replaced used 80w (and the xbox uses another 80w). It's lame if the $12 / year rating is based on the economy mode set to max. It is unusable - too dark even though I prefer my monitors and TVs set darker than most people do.
Cons: Only has 3 HDMI connections (can buy a $20 switcher though, or use a modern receiver). This is a mid-end TV, so many will not want to use a receiver with it. I don't have a modern receiver and don't plan on getting one soon either. So another HDMI connection (4 total) would be nice to have: one for cable TV, one for blue ray, one for xbox, and one for our Roku (we could insteda use a Blueray player for Netflix though). And maybe a HDMI for a soundbar too instead of using optical (using HDMI with soundbars has some advantages).
Speakers are OK for watching TV (sports, news; etc) but there is no bass at all - movies would be bland. Other flat screens are surely very similar.
Other Thoughts: I think the LM4700 model (comes with the soundbar) has additional buttons on the remote for syncing the sound with the video. I figured using the savings on the 4600 (comopared to the 4700 model) towards a better soundbar is the way to go, but my remote lacks those extra buttons. Should only need to set the delay/sync one time though - I hope! I checked the manual - the 4700 also has volume control for the soundbar. Would be nice if that remote was included, and programmable for other manufacturer's soundbars.READ FULL REVIEW
Pros: This is replacing a 5-7 year old Antec 380w power supply from the original Antec Sonata case (before PSUs were rated "80 plus"; etc). It used around 83w when basically idle and 100w-110w when in use (not including the monitor of course).
The Seasonic PSU is drawing only 60w at idle (probably 10w is heat since it's under 80% efficient at such low draws according to reviews). It hit 85w when doing a "quick scan" using Microsoft's free security software. I can't recall what I did to load the old PSU - might have been during boot up. 99% of the time I'm just reading stuff online so the idle power is key, as it is for 99% of us.
One other thing - the old PSU drew 5w even after selecting "shut down" in Windows. I did not select "sleep". I can't recall what it drew in sleep mode for sure but I want to say it was between 5-10 and settled to 5w after 5-10 seconds. Anyhow, it seems the standby power draws 5w. Power usage went to zero as expected when I flipped the PSU's switch (on the back of the computer) to "0".
The PSU's fan is quieter than the Antec but it blows less air. Might be iffy if this will be the only fan exhausting air out of the case.
Cons: 1. There is no PSU fan monitoring cable. Not a huge deal since I can't control it, but the old Antec PSU had one. I did not see this complaint in reviews. Last time I bought a PSU a few years ago, this was a feature people looked for.
2. Antec had 1 or 2 lower voltage "fan only" Molex connectors (for powering case fans) which were fantastic. They were controlled by the PSU - as the PSU sped up its fan, it also sped up the case fans. Even my Panaflow fan roars at 12V, so it seems I'll have to go back to using a fan controller or the 5V or 7V Molex modification/trick. Yea, I knew it didn’t have this feature, and I’m not 100% sure if anyone does. Antec probably does. Perhaps they have a patent is why it’s not standard across the industry?
One big problem is if a knucklehead tries to power something else with these special low voltage connectors, which could explain their absence.
3. As someone pointed out somewhere or another, there are 4 SATA connectors (2 connectors on each of 2 cables = 4). But it seems that all PSUs since the start of time put the two connectors (including Molex) too closely together. My DVD drive uses SATA and is 3/4ths of the way to the top (in the bottom 5.25” slot) of my fairly small tower (Antec Sonata) case. I can’t get the SATA connectors to reach the DVD drive as well as the top hard drive. They should have made one cable with this very common situation in mid or included an extension cable. Luckily I had a Molex to SATA convertor cable as I need all 4 SATAs until I transfer files to a new HD.
One SATA cable is longer (I think the distance to the first connector is longer, but the distance between the two connectors is the same on both cables). The cables are “buried” now so I can’t double check but you can find that info online. I saw the lengths in a review along with this same (minor but ridiculous) complaint.
Other Thoughts: My Antec was a bit heavier, but the cases are the same size - perhaps exactly the same. Antec was much less efficient (as were all PSUs back then) so it needed big heat sincs (can see them through the cooling holes). I have no idea how heavy/beafy this is compared to other modern PSUs, but since reviewers are impressed, it seems OK.
Old PSU won't start reliably - I assume it's related to standby power. The computer case has a date of Feb 2004 stamped on it, so the old PSU is around the same age. Got 8-9 years out of it at ~4 hours per day.
Been building PCs since 1989 - before the web (browsers) existed!
Pros: Good bang for the buck. The stand seems OK to me but I only had a short period of time to try it (had to pack it back up - it's a Christmas present).
Controls for the menus will take time to get used to.
I thought I saw an option to turn the red power light off (I think another guy is complaining about it).
Colors seem good, similar to my HP LP2065 (IPS panel and a more sane/useful 4x3 aspect ratio and 1600x1200).
Cons: Took me awhile to figure out how to disconnect the neck of the stand. The base is seperate from the neck, and when I googled how to take it apart so it would fit into the box, all sorts of old threads come up stating LG monitors' neck do not release unless you take the panel apart. However, I eventually found a "button" to press and release the neck (whew). This ought to be covered in the manual for people who later decide to use the VESA mount instead of the stand.
Other Thoughts: Hopefully I can update this review after I use it more.READ FULL REVIEW