Pros: -This product is one of the top rated CPU coolers on the market – it cut my CPU temps in half -Liquid cooled setup with minimal installation problems – see cons -Software (Corsair Link) has a graphical display where you can control LEDs, arrange different computer components, such as GPUs, CPUs, HDs, and fans around a case and read their temperatures in real time. Software also has a widget that can be displayed on the Windows desktop.

Cons: -The ‘one size fits all’ mounting brackets became a bit of a nightmare for me during installation. I adjusted the screw threadings in the mounting bracket to fit the back of my ATX motherboard. However, when I used the provided screw-adapters to tighten the mounting bracket to the motherboard, I noticed there was about 1-2mm of ‘wiggle-room’ between the bracket and the motherboard. This meant that the CPU and water block would also have about 1-2mm of wiggle room which was completely unacceptable because the water block would effectively not be touching the CPU. After searching online, I found that people had a similar problem and remedied it by using washers or o-rings to fill the wiggle room between the motherboard and the mounting bracket. I ended up using 2 rubber o-rings (from a previous keyboard mod) per each of the 4 mounting holes (8 o-rings total) to create a tight seal between the mounting bracket, motherboard, and screw-adapters. -Several days after I ordered this product, Newegg updated this product's page to show that the H100i GTX is a newer, improved, version. I guess I didn't do my due diligence in research :(

Overall Review: -The motherboard that I installed this CPU cooler on is an ASUS Z77 Sabertooth, the case is a Corsair 650D, and the memory is Corsair Vengeance 2x 8 GB -My rig has an i7-3770k which was idling ~60-70C with the stock Intel cooler. It reached temperatures of over 90C running benchmarking utilities such as prime95. The temperatures above 80C made me seek out an after-market cooler. I didn’t like the idea of a 2-3 lbs. air cooler hanging off the motherboard PCB, so I went with a water cooler with a radiator. -After installing the H100i, the i7-3770k idles at ~30-50C and reaches a maximum temperature of ~65C during benchmarks. -I used the thermal paste that came with this product

Pros: Cools decently when it worked. (i7 4770K @ 4.5 idle at 28C load at 74C ambient room temp is 29.) Has an LED on the Pump/CPU Block. Nice tubing. Didn't leak.

Cons: PITA to install and mount. Pump failure within 3 weeks of ownership. Link Software is worthless.

Overall Review: So disappointing. I've owned and used the H50, H70, H80 and now this... and this is by far the biggest let down ever.

Pros: Outstanding cooling. Bios reporting cpu temp at 23 degrees C (in a cool room). No need to overclock yet, but I am sure this cooler can handle the job. Easy install for AM3+ board. Don't overtighten, hand tight is sufficient (again, amd setup).

Cons: Loud!! Plan on replacing the fans. I have ordered a pair of 120mm quiet fans to replace them. The stock fans make my Thor case sound like it is preparing to take off! Make sure you have enough room in your case. Radiator plus fans take up quite a bit of room. Even in my Thor it almost gets in the way of the ram clips.

Overall Review: AMD fx8350 Vishera 4.0 Ghz 8 core unlocked Gigabyte 990 fxa - ud3 mobo Gigabyte Geforce GTX 660 Windforce Corsair H100i closed loop water cpu cooler 2x 8G GSkill raptor dual channel ddr3 1600 Samsung 840 pro 256G ssd SATA 2x Seagate 7200 rpm 1TB SATA in RAID 1 Cooler Master Silent Pro Gold 800w ps Ubuntu 12.10. Windows 7 Ultimate virtual OS

Pros: This looks and performs very nicely. I love the Cirsair link and controling 4 fans even though only 2 are on the radiator. CPU is at 30C under normal use and never goes above 45C under load. Fits perfectly in my Corsair C70 case ofcourse.

Cons: They are still working on perfecting the link software but no huge issues, just minor glitch's.

Overall Review: Honestly you would have to go with full blown water cooling to get much better than this. The hoses, pump, fans and teh software are a big improvement over the H100.

Pros: There's a reason that most professional reviewers agree that this is the best closed loop cooler money can buy (not including reviews that are "bought" *cough*CPUmagazine*cough*). Anyone who complains about the fans included with the H100i and wants to replace them needs to study some engineering first. Specifically, read up on static pressure and fluid displacement. Those fans are noisy because they generate more air turbulence than ordinary case fans due to being engineered to force air through a radiator. They should ONLY be replaced or augmented with fans that carry a similarly high SPH2O rating. Corsair has recently released a firmware update for the PWM controller in the pump that addresses the noise when there is a low thermal load. Anyone who docks eggs without applying that update or doesn't use the built-in fan controller deserves a fried CPU, or at least a Gibbs-slap. I can't seem to find a difference between the included SP120L fans and the SP120 fans that are available at retail besides aesthetics. They are VERY well made fans and are a genuine testament to modern mechanical design. So they aren't as quiet as most 12cm case fans. See above. Speaking of the SP120 fans sold at retail, the H100i's PWM controller includes two extra fan connectors, a nice touch which they clearly intend to be used with a pair of SP120's. They make a "quiet" version of the same fan with some CFM compromise, so you can still get the vital SPH2O. Of course, any PWM or 3-pin fan 12cm will work, but heed my words above about forcing air through a radiator. The programmable LED on the face of the pump is uber-cool, but really just bling. Then again, I can program it to change colors with CPU temp and know if my overclock is pushing critical mass with a glimpse at the case window. Sometimes you need more info than a quick glimpse at the case window can tell you. Yes, you can use the H100i without the Corsair Link software, as I see by the reviews before mine that many have done, but to do so would be foolish and you will be limiting your ability to achieve higher thermal capacity (and likewise higher overclocks). It is an amazingly customizable and flexible app with a ridiculously tiny footprint that gives you crazy granular control over nearly every aspect of your system, especially how the fans on the H100i react at various temperature thresholds and the status of temp sensors. You can import an image of your system and place each fan and sensor on the image exactly where they belong. It also includes images of 13 Corsair cases out of the box. Snag an image of your case and/or mobo, spend 10 minutes in Paint.net and you've got a fairly accurate view of your rig with data overload on your fans and sensors and lighting. I also liked using the OE AMD backplate so there was no fitment issues. Be sure to tighten it with a screwdriver and not just the thumbscrews if you have an AMD CPU. Man, what a cooler!

Cons: Okay, so nothing's perfect, at least when it's this complex. My complaints are few, though. The body of the radiator is not durable at all. If you are struggling to get it aligned with case holes during installation and you are trying to get a screw to start that hasn't found its home yet, you WILL gouge up the metal. This doesn't affect performance in any way and you probably won't even see your gouges after the install is complete and it is flush against a grille or a fan, but it's still pathetic that they used aluminum for the radiator body like that. Cold roll would have made a lot more sense. Aluminum is only beneficial for use in the fins, which the aforementioned gouges would not affect, so don't worry about causing a leak if you do that. Straighten out several paper clips and use them as drift pins to line up a few holes before you begin installing screws to avoid this. Take notes, I'm giving you pearls. The soft aluminum radiator body also means that hardened zinc-alloy screws will strip the threads RIGHT out if you over tighten one even a little bit. THAT's infuriating. I can't wrap my brain around the decision to use aluminum for the body instead of cold-roll. Chinese factories have plentiful and cheap access to steel from Laos and Vietnam. Much of it comes from mining scrapped equipment from the Ho Chi Minh trail (I wish I was kidding about that). Here's your remedy if you strip some threads. It involves another con, unfortunately. The mounting holes on each side of the radiator line up with each other on a perfect axis (naturally). Corsair should have left the space between them open. Instead there are fins in there, but the nearest water channel is actually a good half-inch away. That means you can toss the included screws aside and CAREFULLY run long screws all the way through. Just get some SAE#6-32 pan head screws of the appropriate length and some #6 flat washers for both ends. Top the screw off with a #6-32 nylon lock nut for safety and you are all set for chump change. No hardware store is going to have SAE#6-32 screws in the length you need stocked (home-town or big-box). If they can't special order it, contact Fastenall.

Overall Review: Enthusiasts the world over are saying that the FX-9370 can't be overclocked at or past 5GHz without a custom loop because it is too hot. With a 220W thermal rating producing enough heat to smelt iron at stock speeds, it is hard to argue with them. But the best way to make me do something is to tell me I can't do it, and I have a few decades of experience to make it happen with, which is longer than many of those "enthusiasts" have been alive. (rule in our house: if one of my children utters the phrase "I can't" they are automatically mandated to complete the task they thought insurmountable; no excuses. It's incredible how fast a child will learn to ride a two-wheeler when you have a policy like that) Corsair's advice is to mount the fans drawing air into the case and through the radiator, but with an overclock situation like mine, I had cooling of the VRM and NB to think about. I also need to force air through the radiator above and beyond what the four Corsair fans could do, right up until I hit the thermal transfer capacity of the cold plate and radiator (shoving more air than that through it is just spitting into the wind). In the end, I mounted the two included fans on top of a Corsair Obsidian 650D case pulling air out (with grilles, of course). The radiator lives directly below them, and two Corsair SP120 fans (newegg sku N82E16835181040) are mounted to the bottom of the radiator pushing air up. All four are on the H100i's PWM fan controller. Beneath those are two more Thermaltake fans with carefully researched ear-popping SPH2O and CFM ratings. The Thermaltake fans also have blue LED's to complement the system interior's color scheme. That's 4 fans pushing and 2 fans pulling, not including the assist from the case fans. To get further air through the radiator under heavy load conditions, a 12cm PWM blue LED fan is mounted in the back of the case pushing air in. It is connected to one of the Asus M5A99FXProR2.0 motherboard's PWM controllers and Corsair Link spins it up to jet turbine speed when the load gets heavy. An identical fan mounted midship in the case runs off of another mobo PWM connector and moves air over the RAM, NB, and VRM. The two 20cm fans that the case included are stacked and mounted in the front as intakes, powered by the case's fan controller and running full throttle all the time (they are pretty quiet anyway). Both drive cages have been removed to assist in effective airflow from those last 2 fans (I fabbed a custom "floating" mount for the SSD just forward of the PSU). So what did all this bragging accomplish? An FX-9370 that runs a Prime95 torture test with 8 threads at 5.2GHz for hours on end and only teeters at 65 degrees. Idling hovers at 30-32, and normal use never tops 40. This is with a 72F ambient. Put that in your pipe and smoke it, naysayers! Oh, and buy this cooler!

Pros: I do believe the H100i is more efficient and quieter than many of the premium CPU fans and especially over the stock fan. I could tell the parts were quality from the beginning. The radiator, hoses, pump, heatsink plate, etc. Even the brackets to mount the pump were obviously solid, quality parts. I usually get a third-party thermal paste to replace the paste that comes with whatever cooling solution I’ve used in the past. I made the decision to stay with what came with the H100i based on professional reviews and forum posts. I’m glad I spared myself the hassle. I’m satisfied with the low temperatures. Since my power supply is at the bottom of my case, the case exhaust fan is inline with my CPU. So I felt comfortable with following the recommended fan direction which is pulling cool air through the radiator from outside of the case. I think some may debate that pushing hot air out through the radiator doesn’t actually do much cooling and some may debate about pulling air that gets hot from the radiator into the case isn’t good for the overall cooling. I think bringing cool air through the radiator from outside makes sense. The issue is making sure the now heated air gets out. Thats where the position of my exhaust fan makes me happy.

Cons: Corsair has been a bit slow on keeping the Corsair Link software up-to-date with the latest technology. Since the last time I checked (11/5/2013), it has been a month since they’re last update which one of the features listed was “experimental support for Haswell”. In my opinion, they’ve had ample time to work out the experimental part. I did not like the fan profile management that comes with the Corsair Link. I always felt like it was noisier than is should be. When I would boot, the fans would start full speed until after post and then drop to a lower quieter speed. I still felt that quieter speed was louder than it needed to be. There was a time when I rebooted and the fans went full blast and stayed that way even after rebooting. It was LOUD! Louder than pre-post. It took me a while to figure out that the profile in the Corsair Link software automagically changed to maximum. With that said, running on the default profile wasn’t very loud and the noise didn’t really increase during CPU stress, it was just more than I preferred. I eventually decided to test my motherboard’s ability to control the fans. I’m not recommending this, but rather sharing my experience. The pump that sits on the CPU connects to the CPU_Fan port on the motherboard via a single wire. It simply reports the RPMs of… not sure really. It was always showing about 2,000. I disconnected that from the CPU_Fan. I connected the radiator fan closest to the radiator input/output tubes to the CPU_Fan and the second radiator fan to the CPU_Opt port. I then disconnected the USB header on the pump from the motherboard. I left the SATA power connected. You need that for the pump motor. It no worky for sure if you disconnect that. The motherboard that I have has software that runs a profiler to evaluate the properties and performance of all the fans connected to the motherboard. I ran the profiler and allowed the motherboard to actively manage the fans. It is much quieter now and the temperature is as lows as it ever was. I uninstalled the Corsair Link software and my system has been running well.

Overall Review: Don’t let my experience with the temporary loud fan noise discourage you from getting this product. I’m glad I purchased it and that my motherboard can actively manage the fans. There isn’t an “i”-less H100 and the H110 was too big for my case. I would recommend this cooler, but consider your motherboard’s potential for fan management. When you attach the mounting brackets to an Intel motherboard, there is going to be a considerable amount of free space between the screws and the motherboard. You may freak out a bit as I did. The manual does not make note of this. This will not be a problem when you actually mount the pump. It will be snug once the tension to press the heatsink on the CPU is latched down. Also be careful when you mount the pump on the CPU. There is going to be resistance from the hoses as you try to place it on the brackets. On my first attempt, the pump slipped from my fingers and took off a little corner of the thermal paste. It wasn’t enough to stress over, but it could have been. Well, I did stress at first until I assessed how little came off. Overall, I am happy with this purchase.

Pros: High Capacity Air-Flow. Giant Radiator with good surface area. Tight Pipe Connections. Quick Installation. Lights up White Corsair Logo. Please see Other Thoughts for Testing Results

Cons: Zip Zero Nada

Overall Review: NOTE: I have not yet tested the software, due to SDD failure. I will test that later and post. SYSTEM SPECS: ASUS Rampage IV Black Edition Intel Core i7-4820K G.SKILL Ripjaws Z 32GB DDR3-2133 Quad Kit NVidia GeForce GTX 780 Ti Windows 8.1 x64 At normal load, the H100i leaves my CPU at 30°C. At maximum load, overclocked to a stable 4.9GHz, it keeps it at a solid 49°C and it never goes higher. Test Game: BF4 CPU Test Software provided by ASUS ROG I am sure, if you download and install the software, it has the capability to make the fans whisper quiet. However, my ASUS MB has the ability to control the fans, as they plug into the CPU Fan ports. This is probably so that the system doesn't freak out too.

Pros: + Good upgrade from the H100 + Cooler than the H100 + Changeable LED Color / might not be for others / + No button in the middle (H100) + Quieter Pump + Better Look + Tubes are better

Cons: - Fans Rattle - The tubing isnt secure on the connectors (See Other)

Overall Review: * To fix the loose Connectors i used a ZIP TIE around the hose where it connects to the pump. * To fix the rattling fans i recommend new fans.