Joined on 01/11/05
I build computers for friends and family. Sometimes I build brand new PC's and other times I build with used parts.
The best Self Contained water cooler you can buy!
Pros: Before you consider buying the H100 look at your case. You will have to mount the H100 to the top of your case. You should be able to mount this into a Antec 1200, NZXT Phantom, or a HAF 922 very easily. The radiator is 11" long. If you have 2x 120mm fan-mounts on the top of your case and 11" of room then you're ok. One fan & the rad is 50mm wide, with 2 fans it's 77mm. Stack some fans together to make sure your motherboard doesn't have a V-REG heatsink that's in the way. Obviously, these thing look way better than a chuncky, twin-tower air cooler. The biggest pro is a cooler like this won't get in the way of tall RAM heatsinks. With a push-pull fan setup the H100 will perform just as well if not a little bit better. The biggest pro of ALL. This thing will outcool the H50 by 10c or more. In this case you'd have to match the fan setup. I saw a 10c decline. Other people have reported a 12c decline.
Cons: Well... the guy who figured the real watercooling setup price is quite inacurate. There are real water cooling kits that are just $20 more than the H100. If you're willing to spend the time babysitting a watercooling kit then get it. The H100 is set it and forget it. Just clean the fins once a month. Keeping your house clean makes a big difference with the dust levels. Computers are dust magnents. If this thing ever goes on sale it will almost be unbeatable. To get the best performance you will need a couple extra fans. To get the ultimate performance, hollow out a 120mm fan and use it as a shroud in-between the push fan and the radiator. By the time you do that it will beat any chunky air-cooler. This will fit in only the best full sized ATX cases. If you have mounts for 2x 120mm fans at the top of your case you should be able to fit this. Th Block is still grainy. Why can't you guys get this right? Grainy Block = More TIM = LESS COOLING
Overall Review: There's quite a bit of extra work to do to these things to get the maximum performance out of them. You will have to go to the hardware store and buy some 6/32 screws. If you're looking to take your core i5 system to 4.5ghz 24/7. or you're looking to get to 5ghz with a good chip then this will work. My Core i7-2600k @ 4.8ghz H70, 71c H100, 66c IMO, it's not the double radiator that gives you the performance difference. It's the fact that the H100 holds a higher volume of lquid. These thing will mount onto an AM3+ motherboard. This should be listed in the specs for when a newbie is looking to build him/herself an FX system here in a few months.
Junk and more junk. Should have been called Crouching Tiger Hidden Junk.
Pros: Nice heatsink that covers the x58 chipset and VRM/MOSFET. I really wish modern board makers would still use the copper fins instead of these beauty blocks. Functionality over Form I never had any problems with the Marvell controllers but I never tried using them either. I actually like the Legacy IDE cable and that was very convenient. I was able to hook up a bunch of legacy devices into this board. Most x58 boards had this stuff. The reason I picked this board is because EVGA didn't properly list the specs of their x58 3way SLI board.
Cons: The board ended up failing right after the warranty period expired. Don't know why or how. It stated with random system shutdowns then eventually the system would not work at all. I put the q-code reader in the debug port and it reads F.F.. I tried three different 1366 processors, different power supply, different RAM, tried to boot up with the board on a table......Nothing. Dead. This board wanted nothing to do with overclocking my old Core i7-920 C0 stepping CPU. Even the most modest overclocks would cause the system to crash and I constantly got the "Overclocking failed" screen. It overclocked the Core i7-930 D0 stepping chip just fine but it wouldn't touch my C0 stepping chip. I tried BIOS updates and all sorts of tweaks to get it to work. Later on I bought a revised EVGA x58 3-way SLi board and I had no issues giving that Core i7-920 C0 stepping chip a modest overclock. In fact, when it came to the 930, the EVGA board did a better job of overclocking that CPU. I didn't burn the board up because when I had the 930 in it, I only overclocked it to 4.1ghz, reasonable voltage, and for a very short period of time (3 weeks). Then I came across another P6T Deluxe v2 board and it was no better. Another pile of junk. I ran two RX 480 cards in X-Fire with a Xeon x5690 CPU, and a Bug Chip towards the bottom of the board fried. The board still worked for a while longer but it died. The previous owner never overclocked and used the stock cooler. The Driver DVD came with bloatware and other useless software. It looked like my HP Pavilion after I loaded everything. The PC ran like trash at first but I bought a couple of those old Samsung F3 drives and put them in Raid 0.
Overall Review: Worst f'in board ever. This is the worst board I have ever bought. Excuse me, I'm going to drown my sorrows in a Pepsi.
It's okay I guess
Pros: The size and weight are nice at least. 1000w will allow some overhead in case of power spikes or whatnot. The cabling that came with this PSU is nice and of a good quality.... unlike the EVGA GA and GT units which could use better cables. I guess it's nice that 1000w units have become more compact and lightweight over the years. Nonetheless the P6 platform is solid and reliable. It's an upgraded version of the Seasonic Focus platform. It can take Spikes from the GPU like a champ. So, If you're looking for something to pair with a 3090ti or 4090 then this will handle those cards.... no problem. I bought this to replace an old Antec Quattro that I had in a system.... is there anyone who remembers those? Before I bought this I decided to read a few PSU reviews and this one is very good. I picked it over some of the older units because it comes with newer OCP and OPP technologies built into it. It seemed like the system was running better with a newer PSU. For those that don't know.... EVGA gained their strong reputation in the PSU market through their G2, G3, P2, T2 units which are rebranded Super Flower Leadex units. Despite EVGA not selling much from Super Flower these days, the G6 and P6 continue to uphold EVGA strong name brand recognition in the PSU market. People will sit there and demonize EVGA for dropping Nvidia, but they don't realize how strong EVGA's name is in the PSU market. There are people that think that all EVGA PSUs are good.... which isn't the case either. EVGA's 80-plus White units and some of their non-modular 80-Plus Bronze units should be avoided.
Cons: The size is a bit small for a 1000w unit and this makes it tougher to cool this PSU. The fan is going to have to work harder to cool this thing. 850w is more ideal for a unit of this size and layout, but 1000w will do the trick and give some overhead for anyone that wants it. People should be aware of the size of a PSU in relation to the capacity. If you demand a low noise unit and you want a 4090 then look at something else.... prob a 1200w unit would be right for you. I supposed the advent of the 4090 and people wanting to support the underdog has led to people buying EVGA power supply units. Supply seems limited at the moment, but the P6 1000w is a good one to consider if the price is competitive with other good quality units.
Overall Review: Like I said before, I bought this to replace an old Antec Quattro power supply. If you're rolling with an old unit form the Sandy Bridge or Yorkfield era then it might not be a bad idea to replace your PSU. Some of these older PSU like the old Blue label HX1000w are known to take out a few parts when they go. In all honesty though, the size of this unit is ideal for an 850w unit. All P6 units are 140mm in length. If you're one of those people that are going to push the PSU hard by pumping 900w through it, then I'd suggest looking at something else that's on a larger platform.... or get a 1200w unit. The 850w P6 and G6 units are solid..... You can't go wrong with those. The 1000w version is just going to give you a bit more overhead is all.
Solid and Decent, A+ for a reliability
Pros: I can 100% recommend this board to anyone that's looking for a well-rounded z590 motherboard, or a motherboard for the lga1200 platform. Sometimes it goes on sale and it's a good buy for those who came across a 10th or 11th Gen CPU at a good price. At stock the CPU isn't overvolting itself like it does on other boards, and the board runs my 10700k with PL1 limits ignored out of the box. So in the end the CPU is running cooler. It's annoying to have to deal with a motherboard that's giving an Intel CPU 1.4v for single core boost clocks. At this point I have to undervolt the CPU to make sure it's not running too hot. I don't really have to do that with this board. I really like the built-in I/O shield. You have no idea how many used motherboards I've come across that don't have the I/O shield. It's nice to see this on midrange boards. There were no issues with setting the system up. The BIOS/UEFI is well laid-out.... as usual with ASUS. The BIOS has the red ROG theme like the Maximus/Rampage/Crosshair series. Some people might not agree with me, but IMO Asus has the best laid-out and easy to navigate BIOS. I've owned MSI. Giagbyte, ASRock, and EVGA boards.... I've tried them all... and Asus is the best when it comes to the BIOS. I had no trouble overclocking my 10700k to 5.2ghz with 1.35v with this board. I've dealt with three other system that had a 9900k with a higher end board like the Maximus X Apex and z390 Aorus Master that struggled to hit 5.1ghz. Now this is not so much of a problem with the board as it is with the limitations of a 9900k.
Cons: I wish Asus would have been able to add a Power-On button. This is helpful for working with the board out of the case. My old Z170-A, Prime Z370-A, and I had a couple older Asus boards that had a Power-On button Not a problem with the board but the platform.... the top NVMe/M.2 slot only works when an 11th Gen CPU is installed. I'm just throwing this out there for people who gain knowledge from reading reviews. Another problem I have with the z590 platform is running the system with the iGPU and CSM enabled is off the table. I tried booting with a drive I had hooked up to a z77 system and it was a no-go.... I had to use a dedicated GPU to enable CSM. I would only recommend this board to someone who already has a 10th or 11th Gen Intel CPU. 12th Gen and 13th Gen processors are miles better than their older counterparts, so if you're looking to build a new system, the lga1700 stuff is what to get.
Overall Review: Solid board, well functional, no weird issues with setting up the LAN, audio cutting out or anything that was acceptable during the Windows XP era. Decent overclocking, Good BIOS, etc. Asus is the only motherboard manufacturer that goes the extra mile with BIOS updates.... so that's a good thing. I bought this board because I got a screaming deal on a Core i7 10700k and I was looking for an inexpensive board to pair with it. Otherwise if I didn't get a cheap 10700k I would have never bought this motherboard. Personally I prefer a board with the Q-Code reader and a power button, but this will do. It at least has the Debug LED's and a header for a Beep Speaker.
G.Skill = The Good Stuff
Pros: -Samsung dies -Lifetime warranty... Earlier this year I filed an RMA with G.Skill for a quad-channel kit of DDR3-2133 memory that I purchased when Sandy Bridge-E was released (3930k+RIVE). About a week after I shipped that kit to G.Skill, they sent me a brand new kit of the same memory. It's nice that still honored the warranty of a 9 year old kit of RAM. -Edges on heatsinks aren't as sharp as the heatsinks on the Trident Z DDR4 memory -IMO the heatsink on these DDR5 sticks looks better than the heatsink G.Skill has been using with their Trident Z DDR4 sticks. Both are of very, very high quality and it looks and feels like a premium product. Aside from the RMA I had to file.... I've never had a problem with G.Skill memory. No matter what system I put G.Skill RAM into, it always works.
Cons: DDR5 RAM is really hard to find. I won the right to buy this kit through the Newegg Shuffle. This is a CON with DDR5 memory in general... I wish the notch wasn't located so close to the center. If you blindly pick up a stick of DDR5 memory, it's very hard to distinguish it from DDR4 RAM because the notch locations are only a few millimeters apart. In addition to that, it's tougher to tell if the stick is upside down when I'm trying to install it. I wish the notch was more offset to one side like DDR3. With any kit of G.Skill memory I have worked with, the product label has always been on the side of the RAM stick that's facing the CPU socket. G.Skill didn't put the manufacturing date on the sticker. I have a lot of kits of RAM and this has always helped me keep everything together. Now I'll have to go strictly with the S/N if I have to pair similar kits together. In the tests I've run so far, the performance difference between these DDR5-6000 cl36 kits is very tiny (less than 1%) in comparison to DDR4-4000 cl17 Ripjaws V memory.
Overall Review: This kit works great with my Asus Strix Z690-F board and 12900k. No complaints. I was able to fire XMP right on up and I didn't have to touch any of the IMC voltages. Be warned.... DDR5 memory can get hot but I'm not having any issues with this kit. Thanks to a voltage regulator being located on the stick, the RAM temps can jump up while the system is running a program that uses lots of RAM. In the past I never had to worry about what the temps of DDR4 memory were doing, but with DDR5 I have to keep my eyes on the RAM temps. I see RGB memory fan kits in the future. No.... despite what some Youtubers have said.... DDR5 and DDR4 RAM are not compatible with eachother. That guy should have known better. DDR2 and DDR3 have the same pin count as well but they're not compatible.... because the notch on DDR3 RAM is in a completely different location. Some of these Youtubers need a hardware history lesson.... and it shows when some of them don't even know what an 8800gt is.
Great for Power hungry systems and such
Pros: It's great that Super Flower is trying to get into the North American market because we've been lacking a choice of good power supply units. Choices of good power supply units has been lackluster since the 2018 Mining crash and the death of SLI+Crossfire. Another well known GPU company had been using Super Flower to make their power supply, but they've switched suppliers. I have previously bought a couple of these Titanium 1600w power supply units under the GPU company's brand name and they're built like tanks. They do not disappoint. When I saw Super Flower selling this under their own brand name, I didn't waste any time snatching one up. The cables that come with this power supply are very thick.... top quality. I have a couple of those high capacity Corsair AX units and I'm always running out of PCI-E cables with those things. With the Super Flower 1600w Titanium unit I have never had a problem with running out of PCI-E cables.
Cons: There are not cons really. The only con I can think of is the 1600w Titanium version was sold by the GPU Company had a very nice look. I loved the rounded edges and powder coated cover. The Super Flower version still looks nice but it's not as good as the one by the GPU Company. This is a really petty con. Not a problem for me but modern graphics cards rarely come with 6-pin power connectors. This power supply is only capable of hooking up four 3090's that have 3x 8-pin connectors. This would be alright though because this PSU could run 4x of those large 3090's comfortably.
Overall Review: Here's the thing, I know some people thinks it's okay to by an offbrand 1600w or larger power supply, and they're saving money which is great, but those offbrand units are not known for their reliability. Personally I'm not going to take a chance here and I'm going to pay a little bit more for something that isn't going to blow up or catch on fire. I've been building computers since 2008 and I've seen a lot of people lose money, in one way or another, by trying to cut corners. I've seen a lot of stuff blow up in my time and it's usually from poor circuitry, old outlets, power surges because the user didn't have a UPS, or a questionable Power Supply unit. This PSU is going to last and it's one of the best you can pick in it's class. Finally, if you're going to load this PSU up and use it near it's maximum capacity then plug it into a 20a outlet.