Works great in Linux and Windows12/21/2018 2:02:50 PM

Pros: Was instantly recognized and enabled in Windows (8.1 and 10) and Linux (Ubuntu 18.04) with no manual configuration required. It is as fast as the onboard Intel ethernet NIC on my desktop in Linux and Windows (max around 113 MB/s copying from Windows share in Windows). It's inexpensive and it works well.

Cons: Nothing I can think of at the moment. I can't confirm the long-term reliability yet, as I have only owned it for a couple of weeks now, but it looks to be reasonably well built.

Overall Review: Hardware ID is 0bda:8153, the Realtek 8153 USB 3.0 to Gigabit chip. If you have a laptop with no ethernet port as I do, this little gem might be just what you need. I use it to do backups over the LAN where the extra speed is much appreciated, and if I ever need to perform a restore from USB rescue media, it is more likely to work without any additional configuration or added drivers than than with wifi.

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Long-term follow up11/28/2015 5:40:11 PM

Pros: USB 3 speed on card reader, lots of card types compatible, USB 3 hub

Cons: Light that stays on in sleep mode (may bother some), wore out (SD card slot) with relatively little use

Overall Review: I reviewed this item after I first bought it about a year and a half ago. I'm amending it now to reflect that the SD card slot has almost completely failed at this point (the MicroSD slot works fine; I don't own any media to try the others). I don't use it that much... maybe a few times a month at most (and not at all in others). I can sometimes get it to work by removing and reinserting the card many times until it finally registers. I've tried it with multiple SD cards and even installed the unit in another computer with another operating system; same results. I tried cleaning the contacts with glycerin-free isopropyl alcohol, and it did not help. It did make it past the one year warranty period before it started giving me reasons to question it, but barely. I've been having intermittent problems with SD card reading and getting external HDDs plugged into the USB3 ports on the front of the reader not being recognized since about then (though the ones on the back of the computer, attached directly to the motherboard with no hub, work fine in every case), and this near total failure of the SD card reader is a new thing. I don't consider it a triumph that a piece of hardware makes it to the end of its warranty. I don't think of the warranty as the useful life of the item! I expect good hardware to last longer than this. My Asus F8SP laptop I bought from Newegg in 2008 (IIRC) has a built-in SD card reader that has seen far more use than the Silverstone, and it works flawlessly to this day. I can't give the unit one egg; that is what DOA items get, and it did work for a while, and it works now if I only use the MicroSD slot. Three eggs would be average, and most electronics devices I use last longer than this, so I give it two.

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Does what it is supposed to8/31/2015 1:30:33 AM

Pros: It works with my 3gb Toshiba HDD without issue. Some of the reviews of HDD enclosures here on the egg have said that the SATA-USB3 bridge didn't recognize drives of that size. The aluminum case helps to reduce HDD temps compared to plastic. I got 175mb/s peak transfer speed with this enclosure, using the Renesas USB3 chip on my P8P67 Deluxe motherboard, measured with HDTune. The same drive gets about 195 mb/sec on the motherboard's native SATA3 port.

Cons: Even with the aluminum case, the drive does get a bit toasty with my 3gb Toshiba 7200 RPM drive. I've seen a peak of 46C (SMART reported, 78F ambient), though right now it's at 40C, halfway through a backup with True Image 2014. I would not be happy with temps in the 40s for day-to-day operation, but on a backup device that won't be seeing a huge number of power-on hours, it's acceptable. It still runs cooler than my WD Passport 2gb (2.5 inc h drive, in a plastic case), and is far faster. One of the "green" type drives may be better on temps if that is important to you, but they're slower, and the aggressive spin-down has been reported to wear the drive out sooner too. I've never had any experience with the "green" 3.5" drives, so YMMV.

Overall Review: Keep in mind that this review is based only on a week of ownership, and is based on the "initial" product quality.

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Verified Owner
Ownership: 1 week to 1 month
Gorgeous case, but your HDD might buzz8/20/2015 12:36:23 AM

Pros: Great looks, nice fit and finish, plenty of room for extended ATX motherboard/longer GPU/taller CPU cooler/large PSU, great cable routing, easy to open and remove side panels,140mm fans x2 front and x1 rear, easy to clean front and PSU filters (no having to open or lift the case), the tallish feet/legs give plenty of room underneath for airflow to the PSU/bottom fan, modular HDD cages allow several positioning options, plenty of room for watercooling, and an attractive top cover if you don't wish to use the top vents. That last one is huge for me. My setup is air-cooled, and I get plenty of airflow (and good CPU/GPU temps) with one 140mm exhaust fan (positive pressure with 2 identical fans up front). The ventilated case backs on most higher-end cases always seemed like magnets for spills, and while it has never happened to me, it's always a possibility. Corsair's got several cases now that have an attractive top cover for those who don't want to use the top vents, and that was probably what put the case "over the top" with me with regard to the purchase.

Cons: Expensive. You can get a lot of really nice cases for what this one sets you back-- but if you like the panoramic view of your pc's innards as I do, this one will probably make you happy. The motherboard plate is surprisingly flimsy and flexible for a high-end case. It doesn't really make any difference that I can see-- just a little surprising in a case of this caliber. The hard drive cages could also use a little work. I''ve been building PCs since the i386 days, so maybe I am a bit of a dinosaur... but I've always had and preferred the "old school" cases (like my Antec 300) with front-to-back hard drives and regular "screw it in" mounting setups, and I have never had any issues with HDD vibration. When I put my same HDD in this one, it vibrated and buzzed all over the place. The HDD sled fits quite loosely in the cage (all the sleds in all the cage positions share this trait), and can move back and forth a couple of millimeters laterally and longitudinally. I corrected that with some stick-on rubber pads, but I was still getting vibration throughout the case I'd never had with my other cases and the same HDD. The top cover I like so much was resonating and making a low buzz or hum if the side panels were closed... but if I placed a single finger gently on top (hardly applying any pressure), it was quiet. I moved the HDD to the other cage (the one attached with four screws to the bottom fan spot, closest to the PSU, rather than the one by the front fans, which is held in place with two screws and two plastic tabs) and it damped the resonance enough to quiet the top cover, though it did result in a slight increase in the HDD temp (4-5C). That allowed me to remove the front HDD cage, which gives the incoming air a relatively unobstructed path into the case. With a conventional, screw-in hard drive cage, the hard drive itself effectively becomes part of the structure, adding rigidity and mass to limit the vibrations. That is not the case with the plastic sled type cages found in most new cases. The silicone rubber inserts in the 760T's sleds do nothing to decouple an installed HDD, as the drive will still contact the sides and bottom of the sled in several places. The fans that came with the case are pretty weak. Quiet, but they don't move a lot of air or build a lot of static pressure. I always end up replacing the fans... it would be nice to get cases without them so I don't end up paying for parts I don't use. Even with these negatives, I like this case enough to give it four eggs.

Overall Review: I know it is the norm now, but as you can tell, I still don't care for the side-saddle, plastic-sled HDD mount setup. This is an expensive case, and every one of my numerous conventional cases (including a couple that cost less than 40 dollars shipped) has done a better job at preventing HDD vibration noise than this case. The sideways HDD cages also don't help cool the HDD as well (both from the reduced airflow across the drive and the lack of the heat-sink effect of the metal panels in contact with the sides of the drive), and are more restrictive to cool air for all of the components within, if you happen to have the cages mounted close to the fans Yes, they're ostensibly tool-free (though I put screws in mine), but I question this: are there really a cadre of builders out there who manage to lose the phillips-head screwdriver exactly after mounting the motherboard and PSU (and fans, maybe), and who need tool-free for all of the drives? Or are they switching drives around so much that it is a big hassle to use screws?

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Outstanding PSU2/21/2015 9:55:39 AM

Pros: Seasonic OEM, constructed with all high-quality Japanese caps, tests show tight voltage regulation and extremely low ripple, FDB fan, gold efficiency rating, fully modular, switchable partial fanless (hybrid) mode, XFX's reputation for customer service, all cables included are blacked out, supports 2-way SLI/CF with cards having two 6/8 pin PCIE power connectors each (four total PCIE power connectors), multiple lengths of modular power cables included, good looks with neutral colors that should not conflict with any color scheme, 5 year warranty, lower price than its semi-modular Seasonic "twin." The fan on this unit has a maximum RPM of 2300 or so, and some of the reviews said the unit could become noisy at higher loads as a result. I was concerned about that, but at the maximum load (460w AC power, as measured by my UPS) I could muster from my single GTX760 system (i5-2500k OC to 4.7ghz), with Furmark and P95 going at the same time, the PSU fan was inaudible over the subtle noise of the rest of the fans in the system. The GPU, in particular, is nearly silent with the Arctic Twin Turbo II cooler; with Furmark going, the GPU would otherwise be by far the loudest noise in the system. I did not hear any coil whine at all. I've only had the PSU a short time, so I can't remark on its reliability, but I have confidence in Seasonic as an OEM.

Cons: I can't really think of any. Some people may prefer the sleeved cable look instead of the flat black unsleeved cables (other than the 20/24-pin motherboard cable) of this PSU, but that is a matter of preference. The X-series Seasonic GPUs have a 7 year warranty, which would be nice to have, but they cost about twice as much as this unit too.

Overall Review: There is a lot of focus on high-wattage units these days, but not everyone has a system that needs 1000 watts of power. 550w is great for most single-GPU systems like mine (or dual-GPU systems with low to midrange GPUs). PSUs are most efficient at around 50% of total capacity, so using a PSU with capacity far beyond what you will need only puts the typical load in a less-efficient part of the power curve. 550w puts the typical gaming load of a system like mine close to the efficiency sweet spot, while still having more than enough capacity for the maximum power my system can pull for years to come.

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Manufacturer Response:
Hello, Thank you for taking the time to write this review, we appreciate your feedback. If you have any issues, please let us know. ps. i love this PSU too. 550 W Gold is just the standard i feel most gamers should be at. XFX Support neweggsupport@xfxforce.com
Verified Owner
Ownership: 1 day to 1 week
My new favorite2/20/2015 1:34:28 AM

Pros: Works very well, easy to use. I've only had it on for a couple of days, but I can see that the temps (CPU and GPU) are as good or better than they were with my old favorite TIM, Gelid Extreme. I haven't seen how many applications I can get out of a tube, but it should be good for many installations. You don't need to use a lot of it.

Cons: Cost. It is pretty costly as TIMs go, so if you plan on removing and reinstalling your CPU/GPU cooler/water block a lot, you may wish to use something cheaper until you get your final setup "dialed in."

Overall Review: I definitely did not find this product to be overly thick or hard to spread, as so many people here have mentioned. I would call it a medium-bodied TIM, not clay-like at all. It spread very easily using the included spatula, with the grease at room temperature. The dot-in-center method works just fine with this grease too. After seeing all the reviews about how thick this stuff is, I expected it to be much harder to work with than it is. I wonder if Antec changed the formula somewhere along the way. I wish manufacturers would not change products and not change the name-- when they do, there is no way to know if the product you bought is still the same one reviewed. CPU is an I5-2500k OC to 4.7ghz with the Deep Cool Gamer Storm cooler with my Corsair SP120 PE fan (a combo which manages to consistently outperform my TR True Spirit 140 Power) at 1.35v. GPU is a GTX 760 at 125% TDP and Arctic Accelero Twin Turbo II cooler.

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Better than I thought at first1/9/2015 5:22:07 AM

Pros: Quiet, decent air flow, high static pressure, cable is long and sleeved, comes with rubber fan mounts and other accessories, silicone rubber isolators at the corners, good looks These fans should work well in most any case ventilation application. Where it really shines, IMO, is as an intake fan, especially when it will have to pull through a stamped grille and/or push through semi-restrictive obstacles to airflow such as the side-saddle hard drive cages seen on so many cases now. It is a great choice for a positive pressure setup. (See "Other thoughts" for more).

Cons: It is pretty expensive for a fan, but it is not out of the range of other premium fans.

Overall Review: I bought one of these some time ago to evaluate. At the time, I was running a negative pressure setup, intending to use the Aerocool as a rear exhaust fan. The rear fan was the prime mover in my setup... it was the one that I gave the most attention. While it performed well, it didn't impress me that much in that position. The Arctic F12 had about the same airflow (through the stamped grille on the case) and very similar noise level, but at half the cost, and the Corsair SP120 HP had much more airflow, although also at a significantly higher noise level. When slowed to ~70% speed, the Corsair matched the flow of the Aerocool through the rear grille, and was similar in noise level too... only the Corsair had that extra headroom to really punch up the speed if that was ever desired. It is interesting that the Corsair, rated at 63 CFM, actually moves about a third more air than the Aerocool, rated at 82 CFM. This is why you can't use manufacturer specs as to noise level, flow, etc., to compare fans from different manufacturers. They are just not consistent. For flow measuring,I use a trash bag apparatus and a stopwatch to measure airflow (time to fill the bag, with smaller numbers being better, of course). I repeat the measurements several times and keep testing until I get the same results. It was not until I decided to give some thought to the intake fans that I saw how good these fans were. I noticed that a lot of quiet fans did not stay that way when they had to pull through a grille on a case. I have a sound level meter, and I tested several fans mounted in the front of a case. The Aerocool was the easy winner, coming in a few dB(A) lower than the next best (I don't remember which one came in second). When there was an obstruction behind the fan, which in my case was my 3.5 inch hard drive, the other fans tended to get noisier or more tonal, but not the Aerocool. Its flow remained good, and the sound level stayed low and subjectively less tonal. It did have some tonality from the front grille, but not as much as the others. (Others were Corsair AF120 HP, SP120 HP, Arctic F12). Now I have three of the DS 120s as intake fans... two up front, and one in the side panel (behind a 140mm magnetic Silverstone filter, rotated 45 degrees to fit between the fan mount holes, to keep some of the dust out). All are mounted with the rubber mounts (which each DS fan happily comes with). This is in an Antec 300 case. With a Corsair AF120 HP in the back and a AF140 quiet on the top, it is now a positive pressure setup, which is better for keeping dust out of the case (and especially out of the optical drive and card reader I have). The Antec 300 has a built in filter over the front intake, and I mentioned the one I added to the side.

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Verified Owner
Ownership: 1 week to 1 month
Disappointing firmware in what could be a good product7/28/2014 7:43:48 PM

Pros: Lots of well-placed buttons, solid construction, nice weight (opinions vary), good feel in hand, onboard memory profiles so you can move the mouse to other PCs and start using it immediately, capable (if a little obtuse) software, accurate tracking even on the semi-shiny surface of my computer desk, glides smoothly across the desk compared to other gaming mice, cord sheathing is braided for durability and low friction

Cons: I wish this mouse was as good as the M90 it replaced, at least in terms of its firmware. On paper, it looks better, with its higher max resolution and its lighter-touch buttons (the M90 side buttons required a firm press)... but the thing about the M90 that I liked the most was that it worked properly out of the box. Now, a year or so after the M95 came out, its newest firmware is still not release-ready. Come on, Corsair. This mouse is sold as a MMO mouse. Most modern MMOs have the feature that pressing both of the main mouse buttons at the same time makes your character move, and mouse movements steer. No problem so far. But in a MMO, you typically are doing more than simply moving and steering-- you're attacking, healing, using all kinds of abilities and items. Naturally, the purpose of a MMO mouse like this one is to have lots of thumb buttons that one might assign to perform these abilities. You would want to be able to do them while moving, too. That's the problem. If you use the mouse in its hardware mode, which is the way I always used my M90, pressing a thumb button to trigger a macro falsely tells the computer that you have lifted off of both of the main mouse buttons, even while they are still pressed. This means that in a MMO, your character stops dead even while you are still telling it to go every time you use one of your main abilities (which are the ones you would want to assign to the mouse buttons). It makes the hardware mode completely unusable. So hardware mode is out if you use the mouse as I do. If you are willing to give up the benefits of hardware playback (greater compatibility with some games, ability to move the mouse to other computers and use your button assignments instantly, having the onboard LEDs indicating which profile you are using), there is always software mode, right? Sure. And in software mode, macros don't send incorrect button-up events when the buttons are still down. That problem is solved, only to reveal another one. When you use standby (sleep) or hibernate modes, resuming from standby has the added function of making the mouse revert to hardware playback mode, even while the "use hardware playback" checkbox in the Corsair mouse settings program is still unchecked! When this happens, you can change the mouse settings all you want in the Corsair settings, and none of it works (because the mouse is using its onboard profiles without telling you). It could drive someone nuts if they didn't know what was going on! In order to make it work properly, you have to check the hardware playback box and then uncheck it. It will then work fine until you use standby again. You will have to do this every time the mouse resumes from standby if you want to use software playback. It will be like this until Corsair fixes the firmware-- and given that the thing has been on the market a year like this, it seems like it may be a while.

Overall Review: I thought it may be my computer at fault with the issues above. My usual gaming PC is an i5 system with Windows 7 x64... so I tried it on my ancient Core 2 Duo Windows XP laptop too. It did the same thing. So maybe this particular mouse is defective, and a new one would be better? That's what Corsair tech support told me. They offered to set up a RMA, but I opted to go back to the place of purchase and exchange it. I still suspected, though, that this was a firmware bug, in which case ALL M95s with the same (latest version as I write) firmware will have the same issues. So I went to the retailer, explained the situation, and they agreed to let me see if another M95 right off the shelf would be any better. I had brought the old XP laptop for that purpose, and I connected the mouse and tested it. It did the same thing as my M95. No sense in exchanging it. I didn't get a refund for the mouse, though. Even with these firmware bugs, its still the closest thing to my M90 (before it started having tracking issues a year and several months after I bought it) that is still readily available. I've gotten very used to using the M90; I have all kinds of "muscle" memory with it. I can still use the M95, even if I do have to fool around with the software each time, and I still do hope that Corsair will fix the issue (hence the 3 egg rating despite a mostly negative review.)

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Verified Owner
Ownership: 1 day to 1 week
A modern classic6/6/2014 10:33:08 PM

Pros: There are so many! the case is well built-- solid, thick metal, with nice fit and finish. It has a bottom mount PSU (with no bottom grille-- which I initially thought was a negative, but turned out to be a positive... see "Other thoughts" below). The case has 2x120 front fan locations that can be removed completely from the case (makes using silicone mounts super easy), has plenty of ventilation (CPU and GPU are 5 degrees cooler in this case than in my previous one at lower fan speed), a washable front panel filter, traditional front to back HDD mounting (while some see this as a negative, I much prefer the better ventilation), front panel USB/power/reset/audio/LED is mounted up high (easier to reach when case is on the floor) and are mounted to the case, so you can remove the front panel without issue without it being tethered to the case by the cords. All of the fan mounts are well-sized (meaning that none of the fan's swept area is covered) and very well-perforated (less metal, more air space) for max flow and lower noise. It has a nice clean looking interior (I don't like the all black look), lots of thumbscrews included, not to mention enough standoffs for a full ATX board! Earlier revisions of this case did not have a cutout for the CPU cooler backplate, but this one does. I don't like buttons (power, reset, etc) that require a piece of plastic to flex. They usually break in time. It looked like this case might have had such a power button, but thankfully, it doesn't. It has a very nice, quality feel, and the reset button is small enough to prevent accidental presses. The power and HDD LED are blue, which I find attractive. I like that it is not a tool-free design. I know you can use screws with the tool-free cases as well, but if you are going to do that, what is the point of tool-free? I built my first PC in 1990, so I guess I am a little old-school. I also like that the case has only USB 2.0 support. Sounds weird to some, I imagine, but my motherboard (as usual) only has one 20 pin USB 3.0 header, and I like having an internal card reader that works at USB 3.0 speed and has a built-in hub. My card reader now gives me 4 USB 3.0 ports and reads all of the common flash memory cards, which to me is a better use of the sole USB 3.0 header than the two USB 3.0 ports on more recent cases. If this case had USB 3.0 ports, I would end up using an adapter to connect them to the 2.0 headers. Sometimes less is more!

Cons: If you like toolless drive mounts, this case doesn't have any. For some, the old school front to back hard drive mounts might be a negative-- it restricts video cards to 11 inches (which is plenty for most of them-- only the ones with 3 fan coolers are a problem) and makes it a little harder to get hard drives in and out, but the side-saddle drive cages are also a restriction to airflow. Besides, the design of this case makes it possible to mount and remove hard drives from the front, through the fan mounts! Just unscrew the two captive thumbscrews and swing the fan and mount out of the way, and the hard drive bays are exposed. The Tricool 140mm fan in the top of the case is pretty noisy at higher speeds, and while you can reduce the speed with the included 3-speed switch, it makes the top fan less usable with motherboard fan control. With the switch and the motherboard slowing the fan, it simply stops spinning at lower commanded fan speeds. Set it to a higher speed and that is no longer a problem, but then the noise is excessive when it gets warmer inside the case. I'll soon be replacing that fan with something else. I did not even try the rear Tricool fan (120mm). I already have plenty (too many!) 120mm fans I like on hand, so that one got replaced before first power up. The front HD audio cord should be a little longer. Most motherboards have the header for this on the lower rear edge of the motherboard, and while it does reach, it requires me to route it across the motherboard rather than behind it or around the edge. Similarly, the USB 2.0 cord is very thick and can't be routed between the motherboard and the motherboard tray. Perhaps that is a sign of quality or nice RFI shielding or something similar, but I've never had any trouble with cases that have thinner, easier to manage cables.

Overall Review: When I first unboxed the case, I was a little surprised to find the bottom of the case was completely solid and not perforated under the PSU (I admit, this would have been obvious had I paid more attention before I bought. I'm glad I didn't-- I might not have bought the case). This is only the second bottom PSU case I've worked with, and I had thought that being able to pull in cool outside air from the bottom was THE reason for a bottom PSU. Apparently not! The directions for the case said that with a PSU that has a fan on the bottom (as mounted in a top PSU case), like any 120mm or larger PSU fan would be, you should flip the PSU over and mount it fan up. I promptly ignored that and mounted it facing down, and it works great that way. There's a good half inch clearance between the case floor and the PSU-- which is MORE space for airflow than under my other bottom PSU case that has the bottom intake. That guy has about 3/8" between the floor and the bottom grille, and it has to be on a hard surface (carpet a definite no-no). And that's with the additional restriction of the bottom grille and the dust filter! I ran Prime 95 large in place FFT and Furmark burn-in at the same time for at least 20 minutes, and the PSU fan barely even moved, indicating that it was running nice and cool. It's the best of both worlds-- the PSU is down at the bottom, not pulling in the hottest air in the case, which improves the PSU efficiency and service life, and keeps the PSU fan slow and quiet... and it can be used on carpet without any airflow issues, and you never need to worry about the bottom air filter. The front one still needs to be cleaned, but that would be the case even if the PSU did pull air in from below the case. I considered the Antec One and the Three Hundred Two, but because of the features listed above, I chose the Three Hundred. It's a discontinued item, so if you want one, better grab it now while it's still available.

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Verified Owner
Ownership: 1 week to 1 month
Spoke too soon5/19/2014 12:40:49 AM

Pros: Hard to think of any at this point. I was able to repurpose the broken fan mounts as plugs for some holes in the case.

Cons: Every single one of them broke in a week. My previous positive review was posted on the day I installed them-- everything seemed good at that point, and silicone should have good durability, right? Not in this case. I guess just the little bit of stretch to get them installed was too much (which makes them kind of useless, if the act of installing them ruins them)... it is not even the weight of the fan that did it. I have one fan mounted on the bottom of the case, so that the weight of the fan is not pulling on the mounts, and the mounts on that fan all broke too.

Overall Review: Newegg, you need to sell more alternatives to this product.

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5/10/2014 4:16:10 PM

Pros: Black color, sleeved, feels solid and looks like a quality part

Cons: On each of the two I bought, the sleeving is really loose on one of the two cords. It doesn't really matter, so I didn't take an egg off, but it is kind of a strange thing.

Overall Review: One of the pins is missing in one of the male connectors, as shown in the image. This is not a defect! The missing pin is the tach signal, and if it were not omitted on one of the plugs, both fans would be modulating on the same line. The motherboard would not be getting an accurate RPM signal that way. This way, only one of the two fans sends its tach signal (the one with all four pins on the connector, obviously) reports its RPM, but the other one will still follow the PWM signal. In addition, if you need a 3 pin fan splitter (voltage modulation rather than PWM), these 4-pin splitters will still work as long as the header on the motherboard is not shrouded with plastic (which would keep the larger 4 pin connector from seating on a 3 pin header). I am using that configuration right now for my intake case fans, and it works just fine.

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5/10/2014 3:54:03 PM

Pros: You get a lot of it for the money, easy to apply, no offensive odor that I could detect, it works. I was not really sure if I was going to notice a difference with this, but I was pleasantly surprised. It does make a difference I can hear (or not hear) on my case (which has thin metal, as so many do now).

Cons: Once it is stuck, it's not going to be moved. The foam is not very strong physically, so if you try to peel it off, the foam will tear, leaving a thin layer still glued to whatever you attached it to. It is easy to trap air underneath-- I did like another reviewer suggested and used a needle to let the air out.

Overall Review: This is not going to make a loud PC quiet, but there is no silver bullet for building a quiet PC or quieting a loud one (unless the noise source is one specific thing you can replace). I chose the 3 case and 1 cpu heat sink fans for their noise to effective flow ratio, put the fans on silicone mounts, chose a case without a top panel vent (which would direct the noise right at me) and with a bottom mount power supply to keep the noisy PSU fan cool and slow, used Speedfan to get the case fan RPM as low as possible and still cool well, replaced my video card's noisy stock fan with an aftermarket (Arctic Twin Turbo II) cooler that cools far better AND is nearly inaudible even at full speed, and then finally added this foam to the side panels and top panel inside the case. I am happy with the results-- my PC is nearly inaudible while gaming, and even running Prime95 in place FFT and Furmark burn in test at the same time, it's still not obtrusively loud at all: My SPL meter gives a result of 51 dB(A) with the meter resting on the back of the case, with the microphone pointed towards the rear (I run the stress tests for 10 minutes to make sure its good and warm before I take the reading). If I hold the meter where my head usually is while I use the PC, the meter (which does down to 50 dB) doesn't even register a noise with the PC under full GPU and CPU load. This is not one of those high-dollar quiet PC cases; this is a $35 case I am using (although if I had known from the start I was going to add so many dust filters and noise reduction things, I might have just bought one of those premium quiet cases that already has all the stuff I added).

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Good budget board5/8/2014 6:08:41 AM

Pros: Asus quality for a low price, heat sinks and overcurrent protection on VRM, USB 3.0, PCI-E 3.0 (requires Ivy Bridge CPU), 2 SATA III ports, reasonable overclocking ability for what it is. It's a smooth, stable, reasonably quick board that has good features for the price.

Cons: Only 4 phase VRM for the CPU, limited number of USB ports included, only 3 connections for the onboard sound card (though they are configurable to 5.1 if you wish). I took one egg off for the 4 phase VRM; if the cost advantage vs. boards with more phases was a little greater, I would have to give it 5 stars. The board is a bit smaller than a lot of ATX boards, so the motherboard standoffs on the right edge of a more typically sized board can't be used. Not a big deal-- just be careful plugging the motherboard power connector in. I simply put 2 fingers slightly under the motherboard as it is mounted, thumb on the power connector, and squeeze them together.

Overall Review: While this is not an overclocking board per se, it does have a good complement of overclocking features. I am able to overclock my i5-2500k Sandy Bridge to only 100 mhz less than on my P8P67 Pro (which has 12 CPU power phases), which I think is pretty good for a 4 CPU phase board that is built (more or less) for the lower power Ivy Bridge CPUs.

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Clean PCs are good5/8/2014 5:44:10 AM

Pros: Nice quality, seems to impede airflow less than other filters, magnetic base makes it easy to stick in place, has standard 140mm screw holes in case a more permanent installation is desired. It's Silverstone-- I've yet to be disappointed by something of theirs. The mesh is actually black, not white as it appears in the photos, which is a plus to me. It has a low-key appearance. Two of these were perfect to cover the 140mm x 280mm vent/fan locations on the side panel of my case (I have them on the inside, but they would work on the outside too, if that is your wish). I've grown tired of masses of dust (and pet hair) collecting inside my computer (and clogging the CPU heat sink), and while it has not been long enough for dust to build up since I installed this filter, I am confident the FF143B will do a lot to keep it clean inside. My PC is a high-heat overclocked gaming machine, and even with all of the air inlets filtered, temperatures are quite good under stress testing. In games, CPU and GPU temps hover around 50C.

Cons: The only con I can think of is the price. You can get other styles of 140mm filters for less, but some of them won't fit two fan locations that have no space between them (the foam type filters with the 2 piece plastic frame, for example), and they have a sort of "cheap" look to them. They also impede airflow more than this product.

Overall Review: I know that magnets and PCs seem like a bad match (the hard drive, mainly), but the magnets in these filters are not strong enough to harm anything. Hard drives contain rare-earth magnets that are so strong that you'd have a hard time getting one off of your refrigerator-- by comparison, this product's magnetic quality is more like a refrigerator magnet.

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Good fan but a bit pricey4/12/2014 10:49:46 PM

Pros: Strong airflow through the restrictive punched grille of my case suggests it does deliver on its promise of high static pressure, hydraulic bearing should mean long life, good looks, feels like a high-quality item, can be quiet at lower RPM, silicone isolated screw holes

Cons: Too expensive for what it is, IMO. It's in the range of the Gentle Typhoon, which I have yet to had a chance to test, but is widely regarded as the best high static pressure, quiet fan there is. At least the Corsair is widely available. As some have noted, this thing is pretty noisy at higher RPM, to my ears, anyway. I have a dB meter, and in free air at max speed, it gets the same dB(a) result (60 dB at 6 inches distance) as my Arctic F12, which to me sounds FAR quieter. But, of course, free air stats (noise, flow) mean nothing if that is not how the fan will be used, and that type of use is not what this fan is meant for. It does suggest, though, that the tone of this fan is harsher than other fans at the same nominal dB(A) value, which would probably also be true when used as intended.

Overall Review: I did a few tests with these fans installed as exhaust fans (pushing) in an unused case, using a spare PSU with the fan disconnected for power (don't really need the fan to cool a PSU powering a 3-4 watt fan for a minute or two at a time) so as to not taint the dB readings. I know people keep saying that for low-restriction applications like case ventilation, use non static pressure type fans. Well, unless you've cut out the metal grille the air is supposed to go through (or if it is one that has a wire grille like a Lian-Li), there will be significant restriction... these stamped grilles can be less than 50% open space. At full bore in the case, the Arctic fan came in at 60 dB, while the Corsair was measured at 63 dB. The Corsair's airflow through the restriction, though, was much greater... in my laughably unscientific test of using a stopwatch to see how long the fan takes to fill a 30 gallon trash bag (I don't have space to describe it here, but its set up to make a reasonably good seal... I am not just holding a bag up to the fan), making sure I was able to repeat the numbers, the Corsair did it in 7 seconds, while the Arctic took 10. What I really found interesting was the test with the low-noise resistor in place on the Corsair. Noise level dropped to 58 dB-- quieter than the Arctic. The sound to my ears was about the same as the Arctic-- soft, quiet, not objectionable (keeping in mind that the Corsair sounds louder even when the dB meter says it's not, at least in the free-air test). The best part was when I did the bag test, and the slowed-down Corsair still inflated the bag in 10 seconds, same as the Arctic at full bore. So with the low-noise resistor in place, this fan outperformed the Arctic (a fan I like for its balance of noise and performance) by the numbers, and in terms of my subjective ears, matched it. It's still a high-performance fan and it can be heard; I am not saying it's silent with the resistor. Some people doubtlessly will consider even the slowed Corsair loud, just as some call the Arctic loud. "Loud" is relative; to me, the slowed Corsair and the Arctic are not loud at all. I have other lower-performance silent case fans that I can't hear at all at a normal distance; one of these scored 50 dB @ 6" in the free-air test, compared to 60 with the Corsair and Arctic. It feels like it hardly moves any air at all, though; I didn't test it for flow through the case, as it was never under consideration for use in my build. You could get the same performance from the Corsair as with the resistor by reducing its speed with a fan controller or via software like Speedfan if your motherboard supports speed control of 3-pin fans as mine does (and if not, there is a PWM version of this fan)... and in that case, you also have the extra cooling performance of the full-speed fan available if you should ever need it.

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Nice case with a few issues4/6/2014 3:53:42 PM

Pros: Nice fit and finish, attractive appearance IMO, lots of ventilation, foam filter to keep dust out, USB 3.0 port (with USB 2.0 plug in case you don't have a free 20 pin USB 3.0 header-- you can still use both ports as USB 2.0), high mounted power/reset buttons make them easy to access when the case is on the floor. The side panels fit in place very well, unlike some cheaper cases. The side vent on the side panel consists of two 120mm fan locations, which means that even if you use it as a passive intake (as I do), you can put two fan filters on to keep dust out of the case. Overall, the fit and finish of the case is good. Everything lined up the way it should, and the finish has a quality look to it.

Cons: This case back has the thinnest metal I have ever seen on a computer case. I accidentally knocked my cordless phone off of my desk and onto the back of the case... a fall of perhaps 18 inches, and it left a visible ding in the metal. This is a pretty small and light phone! If your motherboard has the SATA ports facing the front of the PC, off the right hand edge of the motherboard as you look at it, the design of the case will block access to the row of ports closest to the motherboard. While other cases have a cutout just in front of the lower part of the motherboard plate, this one does not, and there is a little "step" on the extended backplate right there which gets in the way of the SATA ports. I bought a Silverstone super low profile SATA III cord to solve the issue. When I slid my standard-sized DVD writer into place in one of the two 5.25" external bays, it hit a component on the motherboard about a half inch before it was flush with the front of the case. Moving the drive to the other external bay worked, but it prevented me from putting it in the location I preferred. The case has no actual 3.5" drive bays. It has 5.25" bays top to bottom, with a plastic block attached to the left side of the case to allow for the fitment of standard 3.5" drives. The problem for me was that this plastic block blocked access to my motherboard's SATA 3 ports. The design of the block prevents the drive from going in very deeply, so it will have more of a chance of interfering with longer graphic cards or other items. The block is easily removable (four screws hold it in place), and I tried every other location inside the case, but none of them would allow me to fit my hard drive. If I moved the block higher up, the drive would interfere with the main power connector for the motherboard. Lower, it still blocked access to my SATA ports. I eventually took the block out and used a 3.5 inch to 5.25 inch hard drive adapter. That device also had mounting locations for 2 SSDs, which was useful because this case has no provision for them. If I have to add parts to make a cheap case work, it's not as good a deal as it seems. YMMV, of course; every build has its own quirks. All of the above issues other than the thin metal could have been solved in the design phase by making the case 3/4" of an inch longer, with the extra space going between the motherboard and the drive cages. Only two external bays, both 5.25 inch.

Overall Review: The case ended up with a couple more dents on the back. I don't know where the largest one came from. I've had a lot of computer cases, though, and never had them actually get dented from normal use before.

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Handy item4/4/2014 2:29:48 PM

Pros: Cheap, seems like decent quality, does what its supposed to do.

Cons: I had to trim the outer plastic (it's soft... pvc I would guess) a bit with a razor blade to get the adapter to seat fully in the Molex power connector for my Silverstone card reader. The connector is a little bit recessed in that device (maybe a mm or two).

Overall Review: Allowed me to put the Molex power cord for my modular power supply away, cleaning up the appearance of the case interior a little bit.

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Update-- caller ID working!4/4/2014 2:20:41 PM

Pros: Cheap, easy installation, and it does have caller ID and voice. I upgraded it to 4 eggs ... it would have been higher if the caller ID support had not been so troublesome to get working. It's not a documented feature of this product, though, so only one egg off for that. The voice function worked perfectly the first time I tried it with Phonetray Pro. Trendnet responded quickly to my messages.

Cons: Caller ID support didn't work at first, and when I wrote that first review, I thought I had tried everything... the MS drivers, LSI drivers, tried all of the caller ID enabling AT strings... it really seemed like this modem simply did not have that ability. I'm not exactly sure what made it start working! No driver updates have been released in 5 years. I suppose that only matters if there is a problem with the driver.

Overall Review: Trendnet tells me that all of the B1 revision modems are the same hardware; the different minor revision numbers denote different packaging only. The A revision, the one in the picture with all of the discrete components, has not been available since 2006, so all of us who purchased this modem in the last few years would certainly have the B1. So, to the people who also wanted it for caller ID-- the feature is there; you just need to get it to work. You will need to add AT+VCID=1 to the initialization string to turn that feature on.

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Nice fan3/28/2014 4:47:51 PM

Pros: Low cost, quiet, good airflow, light weight compared to other fans of its size, fluid dynamic bearing, 6 year warranty This is not a plus, but I ran out of room in other thoughts... this fan is rated at 1350 RPM, but mine spins about 100 RPM higher when set to 100%.

Cons: Doesn't have the same feel of durability in my hands that the discontinued Scythe S-Flex series has (other side of the light weight), sharp blade edges will cut you if you touch them when fan is running. Neither is enough to take off an egg (you should not touch the fan while running). Newegg, you have a dirty mind if you think a word that rhymes with smudge and is used to describe a chocolate candy product is inappropriate. Grow up.

Overall Review: These fans are very quiet for the amount of air they push, which is why I bought them, and I was not disappointed. Some people here have said they're not quiet... well, yes, they are, _as high airflow fans go_, but if you are forcing a good amount of air through a fan grille in your case, it's going to make a whooshing noise (apart from the mechanical and air noise the fan itself makes). That will be true of any fan pushing the same amount of air through. Think of the wind making noise going through a tree or fence-- there is no fan at all, but you still hear the turbulence of the air being pushed through the obstruction. You can't go only by manufacturer's specs regarding noise. A 120mm fan is not going to give you 90 CFM at 18 dBa, as one maker claims. Manufacturers can massage the numbers, or simply make them up, and there are several that are known to have rather rosy numbers for their products that are not reflected in tests against other fans. I have two of these fans in my case, one pulling and one pushing, and a third one (PWM version) on my CM Hyper 212+ cooler. Set to full speed with Speedfan, I can hear a soft, unobtrusive whooshing sound from the air flow, but I hear zero bearing or mechanical noise with them. Even with all three of the fans on full speed (not to mention the 2 fans for my video card and the PSU fan), the PC is almost inaudible unless I listen for it. In terms of airflow through the case vents, the Arctics are quite similar to the (discontinued) S-Flex Fs at 1600 RPM (but I did hear a touch of fan noise with the S-Flex fans that I don't with the Arctics). My crude measurement technique involves a stopwatch timing how long it takes to fill a 30 gallon trash bag (rigged up so all the fan output goes in the bag) completely, from the fan output at the back of the case. At full speed, it took 11 seconds with the S-Flex's and the Arctics... less performance-oriented fans like the Antec 120mm fan that came with my case (looks exactly like the TwoCool, but without the 2 speed function) don't even come close. The Corsair SP120 performance edition (rated LESS CFM than the Arctic-- goes to show how irrelevant CFM numbers can be if you're pushing/pulling through a case grille) turned in a time of 8 seconds, but at the cost of noticeably more fan noise. Even with the Corsair slowed to fill the bag in 11 seconds via Speedfan, it still emitted more noise. I heard some mechanical type noise... even slowed down, it was qualitatively more dissonant than the noise of the Arctics. I have the front Arctic pulling through a dust filter, and the passive side vents are filtered as well. They do restrict flow quite a lot, but I hate dust in my puter. These two fans do a great job, though; even with OCCT on the small data set setting (max heat) on my 4.4 ghz OC'd 2500k (I lost the silicon lottery... needs 1.36v to be 24h stable), the case temp does not get out of the 30s (C), and the CPU itself maxes at 71C.

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Clever solution for limited space1/15/2014 8:18:58 AM

Pros: SATA III, super low profile, cable is split into 2 strands to allow it to fit in the tiniest of spaces. Works perfectly.

Cons: It's pretty short. With the thin diameter of the cables, it probably has to be to avoid signal loss. It's also pricey for a SATA cable, though very much worth it if you need one that fits in the smallest space possible. Given how thin it is, it may be more fragile than more typical SATA cables. That's a guess, though.

Overall Review: My ASUS motherboard has the SATA ports right on the very edge of the board, facing the front of the PC, and my new case has a litlte "step" in the backplate about a quarter of an inch forward from the board. The top SATA ports (meaning the ones farthest from the PCB) are easily accessible with a conventional SATA cable, but the bottom ones are not. I want to be able to use both of my Intel 6b/s SATA ports! This clever little item fixes the issue perfectly. It fits in that little space without putting any stress on the SATA port or the motherboard. The drive attached does have to be close, since the cable is not very long, but I had the drives low-mounted anyway. If your motherboard has the SATA ports facing up (if the motherboard was flat on the table), the SATA plugs may interfere with the installation of a longer video card. You could probably use standard offset cables for one row of ports, but if you need to use the other row, you need this cable. It's thin enough to allow you to route the wires wherever you can find the room, even if you need to install a couple of them side by side (which you might think is impossible, given that the wire comes out on the side of the plug).

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Great performance7/23/2011 12:49:16 PM

Pros: I bought this to replace the Arctic Freezer Pro 64 CPU cooler for my Black Edition Phenom II dual-core 3.1ghz unlocked to quad-core (on Gigabyte GA-MA790x-UD4P motherboard with firmware f10c). Overclocked to 3.7ghz and running Prime 95, the Arctic Cooling unit allowed my CPU to get up to a peak of 69C, which was more than I was willing to accept (although it did pass 12 hours of Prime95). Idle temps were about 39C with that setup (room temperature 82F). Upon installation of the Cooler Master unit, idle temps dropped to 30C, but the remarkable part was the 24 C drop in peak temps. Running Prime 95, peak temps dropped to only 45C. That's just outstanding, considering that the Arctic unit was by no means a small unit! (It was the AMD-only version of the Freezer 7 Pro which is offered now on Newegg.) The fan is a standard 120mm unit, so replacement when it wears out will be easy. I was specifically looking for a unit with a standard fan for that reason.

Cons: The motherboard has to be removed if the stock CPU backing plate is not accessible. This cooler does not clip on like most AMD coolers. The CPU contact surface was fairly rough out of the box. I lapped it with 2000 grit sandpaper before installing it. The voids between the heat pipes where they contact the CPU and the base plate where it contacts the cpu could be a little smaller, but given the performance, this seems to be more cosmetic than anything else. I just filled them with heat transfer compound. It would also be nice to see Cooler Master drop their preference for sleeve bearings on their fans in favor of something like a fluid dynamic bearing. While the new Hyper 212+ doesn't make much noise at all by my ear, I have had the 120mm sleeve-bearing fan on my Cooler Master power supply get noisy while the 120mm FDB case fans in use for the same number of hours are still quiet.

Overall Review: I used Arctic Silver 5 on the Arctic Freezer Pro when I installed it more than a year ago. I used Zalman STG-1 on the Cooler Master Hyper 212+. While I know that the Arctic Silver specifically says it takes a while for it to reach peak performance, I found the same to be true of the Zalman compound in this installation.

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