Date Joined: 12/04/07
Pros: ● Solar charging of the internal battery does work.
● As does 5V-IN port, from a computer.
● Charging rate seems to be over 500 mA, as it charges my phone more quickly than a standard USB 2.0 port.
● Both 5V-OUT ports work. Haven't tested to see if they can both work at the same time, to charge 2 different devices. I imagine they would, why else would there be two? Different charging rates maybe?
● There's enough space between the 5V-IN port and the 5V-OUT-A port that you can charge the device from a USB port at the same time you're using it to charge your phone, but it's a little tight if you use the included USB cable to charge the device.
● Charging LEDs let you know approximately how full the battery bank is.
● Solar panel comes with a thick plastic-wrap type material covering it, to prevent scratches.
Cons: ● LEDs are really bright, obnoxiously so.
● LEDs don't indicate whether the device is actually charging when you plug it into a power source such as a computer USB port.
● By that same token, there's no indicator of whether the solar panel is receiving enough light to charge the internal battery.
● The thick plastic wrap type material covering the solar panel has a number of bubbles under it. Probably would be easy enough to peel it off and re-apply without bubbles if you wanted to do that.
● Could use rubber bumpers on the edges of the device - so that if you accidentally drop it, the bumpers hit the ground instead of the solar panel hitting the ground and shattering. I will just have to be careful until I put some rubber bumpers on this thing.
Overall Review: There is no way to tell whether this pack has the actual rated 10,000 mAh. I bought this because it was under $20 and it seems like a good deal even if its capacity is not actually 10,000 mAh, but some video reviews I've watched suggest capacity is actually around 8,800 or even 7,200 mAh. But this device contains 3 Li-Ion battery packs inside of it, whereas I think the video suggesting the lower capacity showed a device with 1 battery inside. Probably a different battery than this one contains in any case. That battery was thicker than each of these 3 though. Together, they're as thick as the one mine contains.
I suspect that the casing, solar panel, and wiring are sold as a kit somewhere in China, and that resellers can put their own Li-Ion packs inside. The packs inside of this unit don't seem to be labeled. I'll know later by using this device to charge my phone approximately how much of a charge you can get out of it.
I will say this - the device does take a long time to charge form a computer USB port, which indicates that its capacity is at least greater than that of my phone (2,000 mAh - RAZR M).
The solar panel is rated at 1.4 Watts according to another source. This means, I think, a maximum charging rate of 140 mA. Or if it's 1.5 W, then 150 mA. For comparison, a USB 2.0 port on a computer can charge at a rate of 500 mA. So the solar panel will take quite a while to charge this battery.
I can confirm that the solar panel does do its job, though. I discharged the battery by using it to charge my phone, so that the device had one blinking LED. This means that it's "low" I guess - no instructions included. I left the device in a sunny but cool area yesterday afternoon. This is in central Pennsylvania, fyi. By sundown the battery had charged up to 2 LEDs, which I assume means somewhere between 50% and 74%. Probably nearer to 50%.
Some reviewers of what looks like an identical device to this one on other sites selling versions of it claim that the solar panel can only charge the battery up to 50%, and not up to 51% or beyond that. I don't know whether this is true yet. I'm trying to recharge and discharge this device without using solar for several cycles as recommended by one other seller of this device. Then I'll give the solar some more testing to see what it can and can't do, and hopefully update this review at that point.
I bought this because I play Ingress and plan to go to a big event next month, and will need a sizeable battery capacity. I was hoping the solar panel on this device would keep me going even if the internal battery becomes depleted. I know I can't expect a 1.4 (or 1.5) W panel to keep my phone going indefinitely but it will slowly charge the device so it will help. I plan to put something together so that I can put this device on my backpack so it constantly gets sunlight at the event. If it gets hot I'll take it out of the sun though. If you're going to charge this using the solar panel, put it somew
Pros: -Arrived undamaged (I was worried about this because of a review I read)
-Fan is fairly quiet
-Phenom II X6 1055T @ 3.7GHz, running Folding@Home SMP on a P6701 wu, cooled with the R120, ran at 38°C.
Cons: -The power cord for the water pump (plugs into SYSFAN connector) was not long enough to reach the SYSFAN connector on the mobo. There are many mobos on which it won't be long enough. Either buy an extender, Molex adaptor, or do what I did and splice it into another 4-pin SYSFAN cable I cut off of a 120mm case fan. A real hassle.
-Maybe I shouldn't complain, but they say the H50 does a VERY slightly better job at cooling, and for comparable price, research reviews comparing them before you decide. The difference is usually only like 1°C.
Overall Review: The Folding@Home temps of 38C on my OC'd 1055T I mention above, well that was with the included 120mm fan on the top of the case, and the radiator right behind the DVD drive, so the fan PULLED air up through it- not pushed. This way, hot air rises right through the radiator, which is the natural direction of heat. I've always thought people should cool their CPU's this way. The temp of 38°C is especially impressive since there was a grille between the fan and the radiator. Rosewill Destroyer case, see the pic of the top fans being lifted off the case:
-Efficient / low power
-1TB, great deal
Cons: None that I can think of
Overall Review: You don't need a VelociRaptor hard drive unless you're dead serious about "my game must load 2 seconds quicker!" This drive, with 64MB of cache and a big platter size, is plenty quick. Windows 7 x64 loads like it's nothing, and programs don't hesitate to load either. The drive is nigh silent, and not very warm to the touch. Supposedly uses half the power of the competition, which is only a 4W savings, but I'll take what I can get. Hats off to you, Western Digital.
Pros: I am impressed with this case for the price.
-Black interior is a must for me.
-The top, with the removeable rack that can hold 2 x 120mm fans, should be a feature on all cases with top fans. I ended up switching them around a lot due to 2 bad mobos in a row (bad luck, huh?) and it was very convenient.
-Nice look with the front fan and FP connectors; very clean and does not look cheap.
Cons: -no grille below PSU for air flow
-not enough space behind mobo tray for wires, it was definitely a squeeze and I dread having to take that side of the case off again
Overall Review: I used a CoolIT ECO-R120 HSF and am impressed with it. This case gave me the option to attach the radiator to the top of the case. Since there was already one top fan, I put the ECO's fan right next to it in the forward fan spot, and attached the radiator right under the grille for it, just inside the case. There wasn't enough room for a DVD drive in the top slot due to this, but that's fine.
Pros: -Not a bad layout really.
-I love the color scheme. MSI always makes their boards look good.
-Lots of BIOS options for an 880G board. Looks as full-featured as the GD70 boards.
-Nice-looking CPU power phases, but I get the feeling they're not really that nice (see Cons).
Cons: I bought this with a 1055T and 8GB of dual-channel G.Skill RAM, and the board worked fine for 10 minutes or so, then problems started: out of nowhere, it literally had a small fire start on it, on one of the FETS down by the SATA ports. Needless to say, I RMA'd that board, and Newegg was great about it as always.
The replacement I received worked for a couple hours, then I walked out of the room to get something out of the fridge, came back, and the computer had powered down. I tried to turn it back on, and nothing happened. Removed CMOS battery, unplugged from wall, unplugged everything unnecessary (even kbd, mouse, hdd's, DVD, CAT5 cable), and plugged back in. Still, no power at all. Tested PSU on other mobos, and it was fine. As are CPU and RAM. I plugged the PSU back in just for one more try, hit the power button, and 2nd of the CPU power phase from the bottom had a large spark fly off of it with a big "POP!" noise. Freaky! RMAing again.
Overall Review: I know this board says it supports Thubans (six-core AMD CPU's), but I am not convinced. I don't think it was built with robust enough components to really be able to power a Thuban-- this is me speaking from experience, so keep in mind that I might have just had really bad luck twice in a row. Others may have Thubans working fine in these E43 boards. Mine just... literally burnt out, both times. It's a shame; I love MSI, they make great hardware. From now on though, I'll be wary when not purchasing an MSI mobo that's not top-of-the-line. I'll probably get a full-ATX mobo with an 8-pin power connector next for the 1055T.
I DO plan to buy MSI again, they've never failed me until now. I don't think that their stuff is of low quality because of two bad experiences in a row; I've used MSI boards on over a dozen builds and they are one of the best mobo makers out there right now. Just please, if you get this board, think twice about putting a Thuban in it :)
Pros: -Nice layout, even for a simple board. I like how the motherboard heatsinks are laid out.
-I read that this board is pretty energy efficient.
Cons: -The board's Front Panel Connector pins are laid out correctly, but they are upside-down from what the manual says they are, and from what every other motherboard on the market has. Through trial and error I figured out whih pins were for the power button. Annoying.
-The BIOS is very poor. It has ACC, sleep options, all that, but there are problems with CPU detection, voltage settings, etc. I have the Athlon II X4 635, which this board supports. The BIOS detects the CPU correctly as what it is; however, it thinks this CPU is supposed to get 1.36 volts, when it's really only supposed to get 0.85-1.25V. There is literally no option to decrease voltage below this level- only to increase voltage. This also causes the idle temps of the CPU to be at least 65° C, and the North Bridge gets an even higher voltage and reads as high as 79° C. This is according to the BIOS's PC Health area even. There is no option to decrease NB voltage. (continued)
Overall Review: This board gave me a lot of problems. I believe they all stem from this voltage issue, although I'm not convinced the CPU is actually receiving 1.36V like the BIOS thinks it is, because the HSF is cool to the touch. In any case, there are no options for giving the CPU an appropriate amount of voltage, underclocking, no BIOS update utility (and since I can't load Windows, I can't use the utility that works within Windows obviously, so that's no help), and it wasn't stable enough to load Windows. Again, all my other components are tested working: RAM, PSU, CPU, HDD, DVD burner. I'm not using a discrete video card either.
Elitegroup needs to stop focusing on these gimmick features like eJiffy, the "boot to the internet" feature, and pay attention to making sure the CPU's their mobos support (according to Elitegroup's website even) will actually run in their mobos. They need to make a BIOS that won't fry a CPU by automatically giving it a voltage that's way too high. (continued)
Pros: Nice layout, nice features.
Cons: Unfortunately, that counts for nothing if the motherboard doesn't work. I installed the Phenom 9950 Black Edition and RAM, my new 4870, and plugged in the 24-pin, molex, and 8-pin CPU power connectors, and nothing shows on the screen. The RAM isn't bad. The Phenom isn't bad. The power supply isn't bad. The video card isn't bad. I tested them all. I unplugged all drives and unnecessary fans/parts as well as external USB connectors and audio, and tried to get it to show something on the screen. Still no POST. The debug LED readout on the motherboard which "enables quick error diagnosis" hangs on FF, and there is no way to look up what these codes mean for Foxconn motherboards. Not so easy after all, is it?
Overall Review: I am building this computer for a client and it is being picked up Friday. That's four days from now. Now I need to RMA this board for a full refund, and have a new one OVERNIGHTED to me, or else I won't have the machine done on time.
DO NOT buy this, as it does not function.