Date Joined: 02/01/07
Pros: ...no matter who you go withno matter when you go,no matter why you do it,when you get to your destinationyou can be SURE you won't have enough RAM
Cons: So pay and load up and buy more than is reasonable
Overall Review: I think the glowing lights are silly but I've gotten used to them. I kinda wish it was back in the 70s and I had this setup in my stoner days.
Pros: Everyone has their own backup protocol. My mobo takes two of these. I put the OS on one and then used the second slot to mirror the OS and other software on to another. Then I removed the second one with the OS and stuck it in a box. So if the first one dies or gets hacked I can get up and running again just by swapping it out. You may be doing fancier stuff, like running some kind of RAID. Good for you. I'm a simple guy, this is how I do it.
Overall Review: Sure I recommend it. I'm using all three these days NVMe, SSD, and even an HDD because good lord you just can't beat the price for all that acreage with an HDD. But I wouldn't put my OS on an HDD or even use the HDD as primary data storage. But the dinosaurs can come in handy.
Pros: nuff said
Overall Review: if you are adding one or more SSDs to your build you will need something like this
Pros: The Hz had to be 144 or higher, the lag had to be 1ms and like his old man he likes having USB on the monitor. Four eggs because I've gotten no complaints. He would have to write the review to make it a five egg-er and he didn't pay for it, so that's that.
Overall Review: For my kid not me. I popped more $$$ for an alienware (dell) which is my preferred monitor.
Pros: I upgraded from 8 gigs of DDR3 1600 to 16 gigs of DDR3 1800 and it did not revolutionize my life. This is on a motherboard that is 5 years old including the CPU. It seemed a little bit faster in doing routine shores like opening spreadsheets.
Cons: The question is why we bother upgrading old builds when nothing is as good as a new build
Overall Review: Adding RAM is not a universal nostrum for improving performance. It certainly can help and is better than being ram deprived. The main thing that helped inject some life into this old computer was upgrading from the HDD to an SSD with a new operating system install. I stuck in an r9-380 which was an upgrade from the video card that was doing service already. In order of importance for improving the computer I would say the most noticeable effect was from the SSD, the second most noticeable was from the new graphics card, and the third marginally noticeable effect was from the increased quantity and speed of the RAM.
Pros: I struggled with an ASUS RX 580, and two Sapphire Nitro RX 590s, for about six weeks what with RMAs and all. They just were not stable. I thought it was me somehow screwing up the build. I am very grateful to install this unit and it works!!! Benchmarks are superior to both 580 and 590s, not by a huge amount, but it's there. And it doesn't crash during benchmarks! Yay! Maybe the Radeon engineers should go to Nvidia school to study this thing called "reliability." Now--it's only a few days old--so only time will tell if the reliability holds up. But right now I'm glad just to have a system that isn't crashing when I run Unigine Superposition at 1080p "Extreme".
Cons: A lot of the wise heads on Toms Hardware and other places will advise you to get "standard drivers" from the NVIDIA web site. That's what I usually do for gear. But it did not work on this unit. To get the drivers I had to install GEFORCE Experience and then download the drivers. I tried twice to get standard drivers and failed. Subsequent research showed that using GEFORCE Experience I got exactly the same drivers that one can get "standard". On the forums it is suggested that if you have Win 10 Pro (such as me) or higher you may have to use the software to do a driver install. AND, make no mistake about it, if you have "DCH" drivers, you CANNOT, ever, install standard drivers over them. And the fact is that even when I had ZERO drivers, just after install, I could not install standard drivers. Just don't fight it, use GEFORCE experience if the sign pops up telling you that's what you have to do.
Overall Review: To sum up, if you have a prebuild, if you have Win 10 pro or higher, you're going to need to install with GEFORCE Experience, whether you like it or not. In fact, I am of the view that this just may be the way things are going and even if you just have regular Win 10 and *don't* have a prebuild, you're going to be using GEFORCE Experience. It kind of makes sense, the industry as a whole is making efforts to standardize drivers. This might be the shape of the future.
=> it is to be remarked that the latest driver version 431.60 (July 2019) is meant to address security related issues due to bad security design in Intel chips. So if you have drivers from before this date you need to update. And you certainly need to make sure you have latest and greatest going forward as Intel is going to take forever to fix this problem which apparently is baked into their design.
=> You might say, as I did, well that's fine I'll get an AMD and not have that to worry about. Indeed, I had an adventure with THREE AMD RX 500s (one 580 and two 590s). And it is my view that it is better to have an Nvidia which may or may not have its security flaws fixed than to have an AMD that never had those flaws, but it doesn't matter, because they can't run for more than half an hour without crashing.
I was so sick of the RX 500s that I was very happy to pay more for an NVIDIA unit that at least so far has been stable and works, and I'm very glad not to be cruising fora for answers which never came.
Pros: RMA process was fast. They didn't have more in stock so money was refunded. So, these past few weeks, I've had the Asus RX 580 and two Sapphire Nitro RX 590s.
Before you buy google "green screen" "black screen" "crashes" and RX 580 (or RX 590) and spend some time reading the various user reports in fora. This is a very glitchy product. The RX 500 series is glitchy.
Cons: It takes all the fun out of building a PC and turns your life into a never ending search of on line fora for "didja try" recommendations
didja try a new BIOS, didja update the drivers, didja check the thermals didja check the psu, didja replace the cable to the monitor, didja switch out of fast boot to regular boot in Win 10, and on and on (yes to all, btw).
Overall Review: I actually don't know what to do. I've been building AMD for two decades so it is something of a shock to encounter a product that is this unreliable. I am not a user who is into overclocking, but it is reasonable to expect it to be able to pass contemporary benchmarks (like Unigine Superposition) without crashing. I don't mean with the highest numbers on the leaderboard. I mean, get through the test without crashing. It shouldn't be this hard to get a product up and working. In the exact same build my R9 380 is 100% reliable. I'm debating whether to get a more recent R9 (mine is only 2 gigs VRAM) or make the move to an NVIDIA TI.
For many many years I have followed the practice of building a PC and then duplicating it on the household secondary computer upstairs. I will not do that with this build. When it's time to put another computer upstairs it will be with either some other gpu or an apu. This is ridiculous.
Your mileage may vary. Make sure you do a google search on this product before you buy.
Pros: There is something very wrong with the RX 500 series. I have had the ASUS RX 580 and *two* Sapphire Radeon Nitros in the past month. The thing is, my brand new build (see "overall") is 100% stable with the R9 380 -- even when it is running on the RX 580 drivers. But the 580 and 590 crashed every time I ran them through a bench mark that had three D graphics tests.
This latest one does not crash. BUT, I get the same "green screen" after booting up from sleep mode. (and yes I turned off fast boot) I am *really tired* of seeing that green screen. This is not a heat effect. It happens right at the beginning of benchmarks (before anything can heat up) and right out of sleep mode when everything is cooled down.
I have updated drivers, updated UEFI (Bios). I took out a perfectly good 850 watt Seasonic and put in a 1300 watt Seasonic just to test whether it was the psu. I have replaced cables. I have done RMAs. I am really fatigued with this process. It takes the fun out of building a PC. My goal was an "in the top 20% build" not a killer that would head to the top of the benchmarks. But what it has done is kill my enjoyment of owning a desktop.
Cons: --You will spend a lot of time cruising fora looking for an answer to your crashes
--You will become more familiar with installing drivers than you want to
--You will not have a stable system
--This does not appear to be an "install and enjoy" piece of hardware, no matter what the brand
--I have a youtube video up that shows the crash effect. Newegg won't let me post links. You can try finding it (search green screen crash RX 590). But whether or not you find it, just google RX 580 or RX 590 and put in "green screen" or "black screen" or "crashes" and you will get an education.
--you can be someone who has been a Radeon/AMD customer for decades and finally you will be looking at NVIDIA offerings to see if maybe that's the way to go.
--I won't say "I'll never buy Radeon again" but I certainly feel that way. I will be trying out a TI in the next few months. If it operates dependably it would be a great relief.
Overall Review: My usual practice is to build a PC and then duplicate the build upstairs. I actually am not sure what to do in this case I don't want to build another PC like this one. Too glitchy. It looks like Radeon is dropping out of the "we build quality" zone into the "buyer beware" zone--sort of like Nissan, which was one of the most dependable car companies in the world, till it wasn't.
ASUS Prime X470 pro motherboard, updated to 5007 BIOS
Ryzen 5 2600x CPU with Noctua heat sink and fan
32 gigs G.Skill DDR 4 3200
850 watt Seasonic replaced with 1300 watt seasonic, completely separate cables going into both ports on card, using only cables that came in box with each psu
Samsung 970 M.2 NVMe 500 gigs on mobo with Win 10 OS
Dell U2312HM monitor at 1080p connected via displayport
The GPU: Currently Nitro RX 590 (blue). The former cards: Nitro RX 590 (RMA'd), Asus RX 580 (RMA'd)
The GPU, what actually works: RX 380 with 2 gigs RAM
The operating temps: CPU usually runs 30 to 40 except during heavy duty bench marks where it hits 60. GPU runs in the 40s and 50s except during benchmarks where it goes up to about 70 to 74.
I love all this gear except for the GPU for which I am cultivating a deep distaste compounded with distrust. I have wasted many frustrating weeks trying to get system to be as dependable as the last. I am concluding that with any of the RX 500s this is not going to happen.
Pros: Do away with VGA
Do away with DVI
Just use displayport and/or HDMI
Cons: Cables are an underestimated factor in computer performance. They go bad more often than one would think and at long distance some do better than others. I am very puzzled by reports on Google that your displayport cable should be limited to two meters or so. This one is 7.5 meters long and has greatly improved performance on the remote monitor.
Overall Review: I am very much done with DVI. I have an unusual two room arrangement: a work monitor in one room, about twenty feet from the PC, and a large TV screen with high fidelity sound in the other room close to the PC. The cable from PC to the distant monitor goes down into the basement across the ceiling and then up to where I use it. Hence the need for 25 feet. I had a special DVI cable with active booster on it these past 5 years. From day one, I basically put up with mouse lag and keyboard lag as "part of the price" for sitting next to a nice window while working. But due to some lengthy diagnostic tests with a new video card (which wasn't working well) I tried out this new cable and everything changed for the better. No mouse lag, no keyboard lag, and overall snappier response. Sheesh it never occurred to me to try a displayport.
Pros: Well I bought this monster psu due to a misdiagnosis of a problem I was having with a gpu. I thought I need a lot more power. It's in the build now so there it stays. I suspect that my average usage will be about 6% of its capability and that if I really go to town I might hit 30% of its capability on some of the more rigorous bench marks. And from what I read I'll be using it at an inefficient total watt output, so I'll be paying more for electricity. :( On the other hand I don't need to bother with on line estimators of my psu needs because man, I can add just about anything. Double or triple gpus even. My previous Seasonic was only four weeks old and probably perfect at 850 watts. It works fine. Well that's OK, I'll give it to my son.
I use the PC and stream music or video about 15 hours a day so it will get long usage more than it will get high demand usage. I've put about 100+ hours on it so far.
Cons: MEMORIZE THIS TRUTH: USE THE CABLES THAT COME WITH THE PSU, AND ONLY THOSE CABLES, EVEN IF IT IS SAME MANUFACTURER, EVEN IF THEY SAY IT'S OK
It's just not worth it. Modular cables are NOT standardized. They LOOK standardized. It's like going to a gas station where none of the pumps is labeled. You assume they all dispense gas, yoyu pick the one that dispenses diesel fuel, and ruin your car. The oil and car companies figured out these issues a hundred years ago. But it is more insidious than that because it looks so *easy* just to use those nice modular cables that are already installed and zip tied in for cable management. That's an "easy" that could easily cost you a grand.
The PSU OEMs HAVE NO STANDARD CABLE PROTOCOL. Bottom line is take the time to pull out the previous psu's cables even if you have to spend an hour snipping all the zip ties and putting in new ones. BECAUSE IF YOU DON'T YOU CAN BLOW UP EVERYTHING INCLUDING BOARD GPU AND PERIPHERALS. IF YOU DON'T BELIEVE ME GOOGLE IT YOURSELF. And make sure you store the cables that came with the PSU right there with the PSU and put a note in so that if you croak and some heir comes along and says "Oh look a psu" the message will be there. Unless you hate your heirs. So pass the word around on that folks, a lot of people don't know the perils of modular cables.
Overall Review: One can get, and I did get, considerably paranoid reading the negative reviews for these high wattage psus. But I went and read the negative reviews of some of the other >1000 watt psus and they were just as bad or worse. In fact the Corsair and EVGA negative reviews were hair raising, the negative reviews here are merely highly negative and full of spite. That's actually an improvement over what I saw for the EVGA and Corsair >1000 watt offerings. And all three brands are well respected on sites where people know stuff like Tom's Hardware.
My seasonics have *not* been dead on arrival. The first one passed the 500 hour mark without incident and the second one is >100 hours. The house has *not* burned down. There have been no exploding capacitors. And if these terrible things come to pass, be sure I will put up pictures on youtube. So far my two units have lived up to Seasonic's excellent reputation. I just hope that lasts. I had a Thermaltake with a 10 year warranty that failed after three months, so I know why people get ticked off. It's not really the warranty we pay for when we buy higher end. We are paying in the hope that we won't have to use the warranty because of all the aggro. We want to put the psu in and forget about it. Only time will tell.
Pros: They are USB A to B cables
Cons: They are USB A to B cables
Overall Review: time marches on but legacy stuff has its uses
Pros: I bought mine in 2017. This low profile keyboard has grown on me and I am very fond of the no muss no fuss "sleep" button which bypasses the windows-power-sleep routine.
Cons: I pried the F3 key off to clean out some gunk and it won't reseat. I infer that, although there are keyboards out there where you can pull off every key, clean, and get it back together, this is not one of them. So plan on replacing every couple of years depending on how messy you are.
Loses an egg on the key not being removable for cleaning. Well, correction. It is removable. You just can't put it back.
Overall Review: It's a relatively quiet keyboard. I used to be hung up on trying to get keyboards similar to the old IBM keyboards (you can actually buy these from Unicomp) but having adapted to this low profile style, and it's relative quiet, "I think I like it."
I'm putting up this review because it's time for another one. I guess keyboards are an every-couple-of-years proposition. I have a bunch of them in the closet.
Pros: I just started using WD for my HDDs about twenty five years ago. There are a large number of alternative brands. They all get about the same ratings and if you scroll through the people saying "I'll never order from these guys again!" Well, what? It's going to be different with another brand? The majority of my WD HDDs have been good for ten years. I don't think I've ever received a dead one, but I'm sure the odds will catch up with me (I got a dead Samsung 860 SSD just a couple of weeks ago).
Oh yeah--these are pretty fast. Obviously not as fast an SSD but you'd be surprised how fast you can load 150 gigs. That helps make the weekly external backup more painless.
Cons: About 15% of memory units have a defect of some kind. It doesn't matter what brand you go to. With a 15% industry wide failure rate (for whatever reason, manufacturing, shipping, user mistakes) your chance of getting a bad one is about 15%. Of getting two bad ones in a row, 2.25%. Of getting three in a row, 1/3 of 1%. Conceivably if one particular vendor gets a whole bunch of bad units you might be better advised to buy another one elsewhere. But there is little to be gained by brand hopping.
Overall Review: HDDs offer a lot of cheap storage real estate. I prefer to purchase well under the largest sizes on offer, because I think the technical difficulties get harder with scale. I put two WD HDDs into my latest build.
I honestly don't know if I will use HDD external drive next time. I think there is some merit in having multiple storage technologies (M.2, SSD, HDD) because different attributes make it unlikely that they will all fail at once for the same reason.
But as I set up one of my WD's in an external storage box I realized that I'm a complete antique. Probably next time the external drive will be an SDD. On the other hand, you just can't beat HDD for a lot of real estate for multiple backups on the same drive.
The price is right and it works.
Pros: So now I have a totally new build. The Seasonic is humming away happy as the centerpiece of the new build with all new everything. It is a well built unit. It survived massacring my previous build without a scratch.
Cons: Manufacturers are really seriously deficient in not putting a warning in about this. If you google around you'll see it happens more than you might think.
So I'm putting up a protest one-egg vote. Seasonic, warn people to use your cables ONLY with your PSU. And get on the horn with Thermaltake and Corsair and get them to do the same.
G*d forbid you guys should get together and cobble together an industry standard....
Overall Review: Allow me to explain. I was very happy with my previous build but it was having some problems posting so I thought, well, the psu has over 15,000 hours, maybe it's time to replace it.
So I did, it was a Thermaltake.
Now, the Thermaltake was modular. The Seasonics was/is modular. I had all this installation work done, everything tie-wrapped down, and it's hard to get your fingers in side every nook and cranny of the case. So I had the brilliant idea of plugging my Thermaltake cables--just leave it all there--into my shiny new Seasonic.
YOU MUST NOT DO THIS. THE PLUGS MAY LOOK THE SAME BUT THE WIRING IS NOT. THE CABLES THAT COME WITH THE PSU STAY WITH THE PSU NEVER CROSS THEM.
Pros: My glowing intake fans never glowed for very long and then they'd start to rattle. This one is white. So far it hasn't started to rattle. And there's nothing to glow so it's all good.
If it rattles I will get a Noctua. Noctua has an eight inch fan out now.
Cons: I read one of the reviews wherein someone criticized this or some other phantek because the blades broke when he got something in the fan. Well I had that experience. The thing in the fan was my finger. Never mind the details. The fan lost four blades, I had to put on a bandaid to stop the bleeding.
It's not the fan's fault I wasn't paying attention.
But here's the point. You WANT a well designed fan's blades to snap off if something gets in there. Because I'd rather not have it slice to the bone on my finger. I healed up after two weeks no harm done.
Overall Review: So this is a SAFE fan, we know, because it would rather sacrifice its own blades than slice your finger.
It is a quiet fan, at least for the few weeks that I've had it. I have another phantek on the top of the case, it's been doing good service for about five years now.
They may not be Noctua, but they seem pretty good.
Pros: It's available and it works!
Cons: People still looking to rag on these chips because they're not Intel.
Overall Review: Lot of folks having anxiety attacks about the forthcoming 3000 rather than this series. Well go ahead and wait. I have not problem with that. But I've been watching people delay buying a chip for almost forty years. This is a nice solid performer. Put it on a good mobo like Asus and enjoy.
Give it lots of ram and a good gpu. Those aspects of the system are more important than whether you get series 2k or series 3k IMO.
Pros: Makes for a snappy build. I have the OS on one and data storage on the other. The Prime ASUS X470 pro has two slots for the M.2.
So the good news is my builds, which always are aimed at the middle of the road, have benchmarked pretty well. For the first time in my life UserBenchmark gave me "Battleship" on the overall build for gaming and top tier for the desk top and working computer categories.
Cons: Every time I run a UserBenchmark test they rate my NVMe's as bottom of the barrel. You have to understand they rate the BUILD's performance overall and then they rate the *separate components* of the build according to their *expectations* for the gear that you have, And here I'm scoring 40 to 50%. Nonetheless benchmark tests which focus just on the RAM say it is absolutely performing at spec. I'm not going to pop it out of the mobo and return it so sometimes you just gotta say well someone out there is getting all the glory and I'm just glad to have a great working system.
Overall Review: My biggest concern with this stuff is the durability of a massive storage system on the mobo. The NVMe next to the CPU system gets pretty hot (50c) compared to the one further off that runs around 35c. The case is as well ventilated as I can make it. When I run the bench marks it gets up to 60 degrees which is by no means excessive. So it is what it is I'm thinking maybe switch the M.2 neasr the cpu to the further away slot and let the storage unit sit closer, I have additional SATA connected storage in the build so . And oh yes it turns a 35 second boot up (my old Samsung SSD) into a twenty second bootup. Nothing wrong with that. Coming out of sleep mode is as fast as 3 seconds.
This is the direction that storage is going in so we all might as well jump in and get some experience with it.
Pros: It's up, it's working. If it is as well built and durable as my previous ASUS mobos I'll be a happy camper. No way to know that though for another five years. There *was* room for both RAM and Noctua cpu fan so that's good (32 gigs, 4 x 8 G.Skill DDR4 3200).
Cons: When they say they "recommend" that if you are using two sticks of ram that they should be in slots A2 B2, THEY ARE NOT JOKING. If you use A1 B1 instead you will encounter serious issues. They should say that. But they are too understated. Ordinarily I would not have tried A1 B1, I installed A2 B2 at first. But when it came time to fit the Noctua heat sink on the only way to see what was feasible in terms of space was to put the Ram into A1 B1. I could have removed it but at the time it did not seem critical. Well you get all kinds of grinding noises, presumably from the DVD and HDD drive I have on, and at post you get an error code that there is no RAM, but then it boots, but the behavior is unstable. So don't do what I did. Either get 4 sticks of RAM or install in A2 B2. THEY MEAN WHAT THEY SAY. They are if anything understated. There is a USB 3.1 gen 2 connector for ONE 3.1 gen 2 and two 3.0. To do that they sacrificed a plug in for four USB 2.0s (I had eight on my F2-A85). Make of this what you will the former Newegg tech Paul has a youtube video where he's drilling into his case to make an outlet I ordered a special part that lets me install in a former DVD bay. In other words there are a lot of cases out there that don't accommodate a plug for USB 3.1 gen 2 but it's taking up space on the mobo.
I'm running two NVMe M.2 on the mobo the OS is closest to the cpu and tends to run hot, 50c and I'm wondering whether I should put it in the slot furthers from the cpu and let the NVMe that just does storage go on the other one. Very fast response times but I have no clue as to durability. With storage as cheap as it is these days just make sure you run your OS and programs on one drive and keep your data on another, I have one on the mobo, a backup in one of the bays, and do a weekly external back up manually. When I ran Userbenchmark and Passmark (part of the 3dmark series) the temperatures got up into the 60s but nothing extraordinary. So keep the case ventilated maybe it will all work out....
Be careful if/when you update the UEFI/BIOS. Make sure you follow their exact protocol. If you just navigate to the website in a browser for the BIOS update and just click on it, Windows OS will make some noise about a missing codec and send you down several rabbit holes designed to sign up to their OneCloud service, but the BIOS update you'll never get. Basically if you're trying to download the BIOS in a browser you're probably doing it wrong. Good luck.
Overall Review: I bought this because of the solid 5 1/2 years of service, over 15,000 hours, on my F2-A85 V Pro. In fact I have a second F2-A85 V Pro still working upstairs. Neither mobo failed. But when some ill fated experiments zapped all my peripherals I decided to go for a new build and picked this mobo to go with the Ryzen 5 2600X.
Pros: I've been using two Samsung SSDs in two different computers for 5 1/2 years. But not this one. I read other reviews that mention DOA occasionally, about this or that. And such was the case with me.
But I haven't read reviews about any storage media that did not have about a 15% dissatisfaction rate. I got another Samsung 860 EVO and it's working fine so far. But I was asked to review THIS 860 Evo. It was a dud. I did the tested it by hooking up a known working drive to the exact same connectors through the exact same mobo port and verifying that the known good one worked and this one did not. I repeated that experiment on another working computer with the same results. Therefore, no ambiguity, bad unit.
Cons: When it works it's great when it doesn't it isn't. With a 15% dissatisfaction rate across the industry you're going to have a 15% chance of getting a unit you don't like, a 2.25% chance of the next one being something you don't like, and only a 1/3 of 1% chance of getting three in a row that are duds.
Overall Review: These units enhance your benchmarks if you're into that. And boot up time is very fast. Fact of life: you read people who say I'm NEVER buying from this or that manufacturer again (pick one, WD, Seagate, Samsung, etc.) but they all have about the same failure rates in storage media. Your next one from same manufacturer is very likely to work.
Samsung gets glowing reviews on Tom's Hardware but having used their smart phones for a few years I am, at least in the phone department, ready to try someone else. My experience as a smart phone customer leaves me agnostic as to whether they would be pro-consumer in a defect or warranty situation on desktop hardware. They certainly blow off anyone who buys their products at Wal-mart's phone service desk.
Pros: I stick with Asus because I'm familiar with it and it works for me. Returned this mobo unopened because I bought two by accident! The other one was the Ausus X470 pro.
Overall Review: You will not find a mobo out there that does not have about a 20% dissatisfaction rate. This is due to a lot of things: the mobo actually doesn't work, incompatibility between manufacturers, user inexperience, misattribution to the mobo of failures in peripherals. You see it in storage devices too. Find a brand you like and stick with it, and I think in the long run you'll get better results if major components are from the same manufacturer. So get an ASUS gpu, for example. That's my 2c.
Pros: Keeps your Noctua in business
Cons: Who knows how long these things last and perform well
Overall Review: I guess 5 egss because I bought this Noctua in 2014 and it's still running and I even put it in my new build.
The AM4 adapter instructions are clear, but my Noctua was a bit different. It had a cross bar across the (top of) the bottom plate that sits on the heat spreader. This screw sits directly under the block of radiator leaves and can't be reached by a normal screw driver. I removed the screw using a pair of pliers and from there followed standard instructions.
Pros: sexy and funny
Cons: gummy goo comes out the rear end after about four months and then u have to chuck it
Overall Review: If you want function buy a real mouse wrist support.
Pros: I just ordered this one because it was same model, size and specs as my old one so I knew it would install and run no problem. The exact same one before it lasted 3 years and 4 months and lord was it making a racket.
Regrettably, this new one is making the same racket after only four months! Much as I liked the first one, I think it is time for me to try another manufacturer.
Cons: --4 pin adapter? DIdn't see it except for the Molex connector. would be nice to have a 4 pin adapter for the 4 pin all-SATA board.
--judge it by the one before, which lasted 40 months,or this one, which lasted four? You decide.
--fracture lines on the mounting hole tabs, all four, a qc issues for sure but did not prevent installation
Overall Review: 30 years ago a computer guru I knew at MIT once commented "fans are cheap" when discussing the pros and cons of leaving a computer on (fans would wear out sooner was one of the cons, one of the pros was that in theory it is less hard on circuitry just to stay on). I guess it would be nice if you could buy a fan like this for $30 or $40 that would last 100k hours and port from one build to another over the years. Because it is hard to thread that tiny wire into the case and get it seated on the socket without bending or hurting anything. But I saw no such high quality build option.
Pros: I have had a Thermtake unit in my downstairs PC for 3+ years so far it's great. So I bought this one thinking it also would deliverr value for money. NOT!
Cons: I bought it at the very end of September and it failed in the first week of January. SAD! I put my old Coolermaster backup into the desktop and everything works fine. The 550 Watt $40 Coolermaster is beating the pants off a $160 850W Thermaltake. SAD!
Overall Review: I am about to learn whether Thermaltake really stands behind its product with the 7 year warranty. Still you pay premium dollar for reliability. I installed this, then I had to take it out, put in a temporary unit, and when/if the replacement comes will have to go through the whole rigmarole all over again. You pay higher prices *not to have* that kind of aggro. Tom's H ardware has some top rated power supply units and I may switch brands. That's too bad because I thought I had a winner with Thermaltake. The "made in China" on the sticker may be telling the bottom-line story.
Pros: I did get it installed and it did raise all my benchmarks from the previous card. It works. It also sabotages the OS in some weird way. (see cons)
Cons: I have two *nearly* identical desktop builds. Installed the R9-270X upstairs as a practice run on putting this one into my downstairs build. Everything went OK upstairs...but this, this has been a NIGHTMARE.
It did something to my Win 8.1 operating system which has hitherto been highly stable and absolutely without problems prior to the installation. The computer lost the ability to re-start. That is, I can turn the computer OFF and start it again, but I can't re-start, which is critical for certain functions (like entering safe mode). I've written about 5 pages on Tom's hardware forums of all the efforts I have made to get my system working, but it looks like I'm going to have to reinstall the OS which likely means re-buying a lot of software.
Whatever this installation process did, it is not reversible, in the sense that I gave up, put my old card in (with old drivers) and I still have the same re-start problem. After spending 6 hours on this issue and forum crawling and hitting one impediment after another, I can truly say I wish I had not gotten this product. It may be that I will eventually get it working but right now it's just a bad experience. Maybe the lesson is never mess with a build that's working.
Overall Review: The O.S. disk was 8.0 and I upgraded over the net to 8.1, so doing a "refresh" is going to be problematic. There appear to be significant barriers to creating a rescue disk--you run into obstacles that are not mentioned on the net. I'm wondering if microsoft is trying to push people to Win 10 or Office 365.