Date Joined: 01/30/06
Pros: Lots of GPU computing power
Cons: - Pricey
- Long format card might not fit your case
- 3-fan design slightly louder
- one annoyance: bootup video priority
Overall Review: This review is written after having the card installed for only a few days.
When I won a chance to buy a 3080Ti in the newegg shuffle, I jumped at it, and no regrets, despite the steep price -- more than double what I paid for the 2070 card it is replacing.
Before buying, be sure your computer case will acomodate such a long card, and you have enough power supply.
Compared to the 2070, this card takes more power and more cooling -- hence the 3 fans and the longer card, and therefore more fan noise, but not to an annoying level.
The increase in 3DMark scores is consistent with expectations.
As this is a new model GPU, you'll have to upgrade your drivers, and it might be easier to do that *before* installing the card, but I didn't do the upgrades until afterwords, and didn't have any problems. I was pleasantly surprised that the necessary Ubuntu linux driver was already available, although from a ppa repository.
One small annoyance I want to mention: video during bootup before the OS is loaded. I'm referring to the text displayed by the BIOS/UEFI firmware on startup (where you can hit DEL to get into the setup or some function key to get a boot menu) and the GRUB boot loader. I have a dual-boot system with both Windows and Ubuntu. Obviously it is absolutely essential that this text goes to my monitor. Before the upgrade, I had the monitor attached to the 2070 via HDMI cable, and also a Valve Index VR headset plugged into one of the Display Ports on the card. The GRUB default is to boot into Ubuntu, so if I want to boot into Windows to play VR games, I have to reboot and choose Windows on the GRUB menu. After swapping out the 2070 and swapping in this card, I was not getting the BIOS/UEFI/GRUB video on the monitor! (I assume it must have been going to the VR headset.) Now in my (limited!) experience, on some systems the BIOS/UEFI/GRUB video is displayed on *every* monitor connected to the computer (this seems to happen with AMD video cards) and on some systems this video is only displayed on *one* monitor (this seems to happen with NVIDIA graphics cards). This card has 3 DP outputs and 1 HDMI output. In my experience, the HDMI output has lowest priority on this card. If there is anything (monitor or VR headset or whatever) plugged into any of the DP outputs, the bootup video goes to the Display Port and the HDMI port has no signal.
After an embarrassing length of time figuring out what was going on, the solution was to plug the monitor into a DP output that had higher priority than where the VR headset was plugged in. Fortunately, my monitor also has DP inputs, so I just had to replace the cable, not the whole monitor!
It would be much, much better if the bootup video went to *every* monitor that was plugged in instead of just one, but I don't know if that's within NVIDIA & EVGA's power to do. I don't know enough about the UEFI process to say. If the bootup video can only go to one monitor, it would be better if the HDMI output was not the absolute last in priority, to give the users more flexibility. (On the 2070 card being replaced, the priority was DP;DP;HDMI;DP, with the monitor attached to HDMI and the VR headset attached to the DP with lower priority.)
Pros: Good 4K LCD panel with no dead pixels that I can see.
Good value for $.
Cons: No frills
Overall Review: For the money, you get exactly what it says on the product page: a good 27" 4K monitor.
This is a no-frills monitor with no speakers; no USB hub, and the only adjustment is tilt. If you want to adjust the height, put a book under it.
Pros: Switches two HDMI monitors between two computers
Cons: Keyboard does not work with BIOS/GRUB
Audio setup issues
Not USB powered
Overall Review: My biggest complaint: One of my computers is dual-boot Ubuntu Linux and Windows 10. After installing this KVM, I found that the keyboard won't work during bootup. After the OS is loaded, the keyboard and mouse both work fine, but during the bootup, I can't use any function keys to access BIOS/UEFI setup options and when GRUB is loaded, I can't use the keyboard to select any boot options or specify the non-default OS; I just have to wait until GRUB times out and loads the default OS. This KVM has two keyboard modes: emulation and passthu, but toggling that mode doesn't make any difference. (Why two modes? why would you every want to use emulation mode?) Not sure how I'll work around this; probably have to plug a second keyboard into a USB port when I want to boot the other OS.
Audio setup is an issue. Definitely "plug-and-pray". This KVM has no connections to the computers' audio outputs, instead it assumes your computers are sending audio on the HDMI cables. Of course, if your video card doesn't have HDMI outputs and you're using DVI-to-HDMI adapters, this won't work. One of my computers has a video card with one HDMI output, and the second monitor was connected thru a DVI-to-HDMI adapter, so I expected this to work after I changed Windows settings to use the HDMI audio device. But after the initial setup, there was no sound. The user manual (which is better than average, with a lot of clear setup diagrams) doesn't say anything about audio setup other than to plug your speakers into the audio jack on the KVM, so no help there. I tried switching HDMI inputs from the computer to the KVM and rebooting, thinking maybe the audio signal had to be on a certain HDMI input port, but that made no difference. Then I tried switching the HDMI monitors' cables between output ports and rebooting, and then magically I have sound! I have no idea why that made a difference. There are obviously some strange restrictions on audio setup that are not documented, so you have to work it out by trial and error, or just by luck.
Some other KVMs take the power they need from their USB connections to the computers, but this one requires a separate power source. It comes with a "wall wart" style AC/DC converter which will, of course, take up 2 or more slots on your outlet strip.
Comes with an IR remote control that you will probably never use. (Battery not included)
Pros: Worked flawlessly on both Windows 10 and Ubuntu 20.04 (while it lasted)
Very nice stand
Cons: More expensive
Died after less than a week
Overall Review: I was having trouble finding a wifi dongle that would work well with both Windows 10 and Ubuntu on a dual-boot computer that I needed to move into a room that didn't have any wired ethernet. Several other adapters I tried either didn't work at all, or had issues on one OS or the other. I bought this because it was recommended on some "10 best" web site review, despite the higher price tag. Yes, it worked flawlessly on both OSes -- for a few days, and then just died. Became totally inert. When I plug it into a USB slot, nothing happens, the LED doesn't even light up.
A lot of these USB dongles don't have any antennae, and presumably the dual antennae give it better signal strength.
A lot of USB dongles come completely bare, with no USB cable, you have to plug them directly into a USB slot on your computer or a hub. Some come with simple generic USB extension cables, but this comes with a USB extension cable that terminates in a very nice stand that lets the dongle stand vertically, which you can see in the photos on the web site.
Pros: Large 4K display
Good color - 4K video content looks great
Cons: Missing CD
USB hub unusable
Overall Review: There was no user manual in the box. There was a single sheet of quick setup graphics. According to HP's web site, there was supposed to be a CD in the box, which presumably had the user manual PDF and optional data files, but it was missing.
Not a big deal to download the manual.
I really like having a USB hub in a monitor to plug keyboard and mouse into. It not just frees up USB slots on the computer, but also gives you more cable reach. Unfortunately, I found the USB hub on this monitor unusable for two reasons.
1) With the default settings, the monitor will go to sleep when it doesn't have a video signal for 60 seconds or so after your computer goes to sleep or turns off the display according to your computer's power settings. That's all good, except that it also powers off the USB hub, which is bad. That means that you can't wake your computer back up with the keyboard or mouse as you'd expect, because those are now dead. I fortunately have a backlit keyboard which goes dark when disconnected, so it didn't take me any time to figure out what the problem was. You have to wake the monitor up first, by hitting one of the OSD setting keys at the bottom, and then when it wakes up and powers up the hub, then you can use the keyboard/mouse to wake up the computer. Eventually, I found a setting in the OSD menus that looks like it would keep the USB hub powered on when the monitor sleeps, but I didn't find that until after I'd already decided not to use the monitor's hub. It might have been helpful if the manual had been in the box like it was supposed to be, and IMHO powering off the hub should never have been the default setting. While issue 1 with the hub is an annoyance, issue 2 was the deal breaker for me.
2) With my keyboard and mouse plugged into the monitor's USB hub, they worked just fine in Windows and Ubuntu Linux (I have both OSes installed). But they DID NOT work in BIOS/UEFI or in the GRUB boot loader! I couldn't hit DEL or F11 during boot to get to the BIOS settings or boot menu. And in the GRUB boot loader, I couldn't use the arrow keys to select which OS to boot; no way to access recovery mode or edit the boot options. I just have to wait until it boots the default OS (Ubuntu) with no way to start Windows. Apparently, those pre-execution environments are lacking whatever software is needed to recognize this particular USB hub. I didn't experiment with plugging the uplink USB cable into different ports on my computer to see if that worked. I just gave up and installed another USB hub.
This comes with a really solid, heavy stand and a VESA bracket. The monitor itself has a 2" x 1/4" tab on the back (the user manual calls it the "hinge") that you snap into a corresponding slot ("hinge cover") on either the stand or the bracket. The problem is there's a lot of slop in that fit, which allows the monitor to wobble if touched or there's any source of vibration, and in my case it lists just slightly to one side -- I can't get it to stay perfectly horizontal. An advantage to this design is that the VESA screw holes are on the bracket and not the back of the monitor, so there's no chance of ruining a monitor by using a too-long screw. If you're doing a wall mount, you should be aware that the monitor will NOT be flush against the wall; the bracket will hold it out about 5 inches away from the wall. In my case, this was an advantage, because I was mounting this on a free-standing monitor stand designed to go into a corner, and the extra separation meant I could shove the unit further back into the corner.
Pros: Large print backlit keys.
Cons: Nothing much. The glossy plastic faceplate tends to show finger marks and smudges; The numeric pad keys don't have the arrows on them, so if you prefer to keep num lock off, you might mind that -- I don't; I prefer num lock on all the time.
Overall Review: I really like this keyboard so much that I ordered two more.
I've been switching to illuminated keyboards for a couple of year now, and this is my 3rd one. I find myself often using one of my computers at night when I don't really need or want to turn the room lights on. This one is FAR superior to the others I've had. With the others, the keys are illuminated but only very faintly, can't be read from any angle, or the backlit switches off annoyingly when you stop typing for a couple of minutes. With this one, the keys are brightly lit, can easily be read from any angle, and stay illuminated as long as it is plugged in.
LED color can be switched Blue / Red / Violet -- no green.
Pros: Spacious (mostly)
Accepts either microATX or ATX motherboards
Sturdy steel case
No-screw drive bays
Overall Review: For my latest computer build, I had chosen a big power supply, an powerful cpu with a large cooler, and a big video card. I belatedly realized that these components weren't going to fit into any old case. Kudos to Newegg for letting me filter the search by max cooler height, max video card length, and max power supply size.
This is a nice large case with plenty of room for my components, plenty of space for cable routing. Working inside this case was easier than any other in my experience.
The only exception is at the top of the case. The top of the motherboard is right up to the top of the case, making access to the screws and connectors there awkward. Another half inch of space there would have been nice.
The no-screw hard drive bays work fine. The optical drive bay has the same no-screw type of mounting, but the instruction sheet tells you to add a screw anyway.
The hard drives are mounted traverse, so the sata cables can be easily routed without interfering with anything.
Pros: Works for me!
Supports an amazing number of motherboard configurations
Cons: No english-language instruction sheet
The PCI-E option didn't work for me.
Ships from China
Overall Review: Buy one (or more, they're cheap) of these NOW, _before_ you really need one. It ships from China and when you're trying to debug a new computer build, you really don't want to wait 2 or 3 weeks for delivery.
I was having problems with a new computer build, and my old P.O.S.T. card that plugged into a PCI slot has become obsolete because mother mobos have elminated that slot.
This small card has one edge that can plug into a PCI slot, another edge that can plug into a PCI-E slot, and two sockets that can plug into TPM or LPC headers if your motherboard has those.
The PCI-E option didn't work for me. The card lit up, but only displayed "00". Not taking any eggs off for that, since from what I've seen searching the internet, getting POST codes over the PCI-E bus is problematic at best and should only be tried as the last resort. This failure may have been the motherboard's fault and no fault of this card.
The only documentation that comes with the card is a single double-sided page written in Chinese, with no translation into English or any other language. I was unable to find an English translation anywhere on the internet, either. However, even without the text, the diagrams are enough to let you identify which type of LPC/TPM header your motherboard has, and how to plug into it. When I plugged this into the TPM header of my mobo and turned on the power, it "just worked" and showed me the POST codes.
The more I looked into this, I found that there is no single standard for LPC/TPM headers, and the ones this card supports are not consistent in their pin assignments. Eventually, I realized that what this chip *must* be doing is sensing which pins are getting DC voltage applied (and possibly which pin is getting the bus reset signal), deducing from that what mobo it's plugged into and dynamically connecting LPC bus signals to pins accordingly. Awesome!
Yes, this would be better if it came with better documentation, even an English translation of the single sheet would be nice, but I'm so impressed by how much effort has gone into supporting a complete zoo of inconsistent motherboards, that I just have to give this all 5 eggs.
(If you have geeky/maker friends or relatives, this would make a great stocking stuffer.)
Pros: Shipped promptly.
Cons: "mini PCI-E" is not the same as PCI-E
Overall Review: Not what I thought it was when I ordered it.
Building a new computer from Newegg components, and it won't boot -- no video, and no good way to debug whether the problem is motherboard, bios version, memory, .... I have an old POST card but it fits into a PCI slot and modern motherboards have eliminated that slot. (Also, no speaker header on the mb for beep codes.) So I order this, thinking that it would fit into a PCI-E x1 slot and give me the POST code. It doesn't.
This card has a "mini PCI-E" interface, which is NOT the same thing. It does NOT fit into the PCI-E slot on an ATX or micro ATX desktop motherboard. This is for notebook form factors only. My bad, not the vendor's fault that I didn't read and understand the product description carefully enough.
This has pins on it for an LPC interface, which in theory should connect to a TPM header on a motherboard, but you'd have to make a custom cable for it.
Good cable lengths should be more than adequate for most installations.
Cons: Probably won't recognize your keyboard.
Out-of-the box, my old keyboard wouldn't work with it. Reading the fine print in the manual I found that you have to disable the keyboard emulation in the KVM to use a "gaming" keyboard. I didn't know I had a "gaming" KB; it was an old HP KB with some multimedia function keys that I never used. So how do they define a "gaming" keyboard? AFAICT, any keyboard with any extra keys beyond the basic 104, or any "multimedia" keys, or any other special features won't work with their keyboard emulation. WHY NOT? Browsing Newegg, the vast majority of keyboards current being sold are either explicitly labeled "gaming" or have some extra function keys like mine.
You can use your "gaming" KB by disabling the keyboard emulation in the KVM, but -- catch 22! -- you can only do that by scrounging up a basic vanilla keyboard that the KVM *does* recognize and entering a special key sequence in the manual. Then your "gaming" keyboard will work *EXCEPT* that now you can't used the usual hotkey [Scroll Lock], [Scroll Lock], [Enter] sequence to switch computers from the keyboard. You have to use the button they provide which is wired to the KVM.
Overall Review: Other USB KVMs I've used were just plug-and-play. This one has the usual two USB ports for keyboard and mouse, but you have to plug the keyboard into the one labeled keyboard and the mouse into the one labeled mouse. There's no USB hub in the KVM, and it takes two USB ports on each computer instead of the usual one.
The manual is printed not just with tiny type, but tiny dark-grey type on a lighter-grey background to make it even more difficult than normal to read.
Pros: Newegg RMA promptly sent a replacement.
Cons: First one I received was dead on arrival; would not power up.
Overall Review: The first one I received was dead at the unboxing. Would not power on at all. Plug it in and turn the switch, and no LEDs turn on.
Newegg deserves praise for standing behind it's products. The RMA process was painless and prompt, and the replacement unit worked.
Replacement seems to be working OK fine, but I haven't done much with it, just using it to power one security camera, so far.
Pros: It just works.
A full duplex color laser printer for the price of a non-duplex.
Cons: None so far.
Overall Review: I've had this for 4 months so far, in a home office environment with very light usage, only a few pages per week. I've had no problems or complaints with it so far.
I chose it mainly because it offered duplex printing for about the same price as other brand's non-duplex (or manual duplex) color lasers. It's a nice convenience and saves paper.
Before buying, I searched online and found that generic replacement toner cartridges seemed to be available for a reasonable price, although I'm sure the total life cycle costs per page are not the absolute minimum for a color laser.
It's solidly built and heavy to lift. You may need two people to get it out of the box and set up without any risk of back strain.
Pros: Size; Resolution; Price; 3-year warranty
Cons: Brightness control doesn't really work - details below.
Overall Review: (writing this 2 days after it arrived.)
Out-of-the-box, the display was way too bright. The OSD brightness control has a range from 0 = too bright to 100 = much, much too bright. Even when set at zero, the colors all washed out and really hard to read fine text on a white background. Eventually got the monitor adjusted so I can use it without eyestrain, by tweaking the color balance controls to very low settings (10/100)
Bought this to replace a "bargain" 24" monitor that only lasted 23 months. The extra screen space is a dramatic improvement.
IMHO, 1080 is ok for a TV, but inadequate for computer monitor. The 1600-resolution is much better
Pros: low price
Cons: Bought a pair of these for a RAID array. One failed after only a couple of weeks of use.
It passes the "short" tests, but fails the long/extended tests (using either WD's Data Lifequard diagnostic or Seagate's SeaTools diagnostics). I didn't run the extended tests until my RAID controller failed the drive, so it might have been bad right out-of-the-box without my realizing it.