Pros: I wanted a card that I could max current games with and this one can apparently do it. I've pushed it to 3700mb in GTA V w/o issues,maxing every single setting at 1920 x 1080. Big step up from GTX 550ti in everything EXCEPT 2D applications and DX9 which I think it was nearly the same GTX 550ti? -Comes with the nice twin frozr cooling unit which adds a larger CPU sized heat sink with piping, and dual fans. The base MSI 970 doesn't have this, and I'd say it's WELL worth the extra $20 or so and they increased the core and boost clocks to take advantage of the better cooling. If it ever breaks, I bet I could transfer the heat sink to a reference card ;) -OC unbelievably HIGH w/o actually OC'ing it?. Turning K-Boost on with EVGA PX, usually locks card at it's highest reference clocks, and prevents power saving modes i.e. when desktop surfing, card's at slowest reference speeds/volts, watching Hulu should see middle settings. This is all energy saving software, but can cause stuttering in games as it switches speeds. But here's the weird thing. It's rated at 1140 MHz Core clock; Boost is 1279. Turn K-boost on and it JUMPS to 1328 mhz @1.218 voltage? That's crazy. When turning K-boost on, have to shut down EVGA, then turn back on for it to update correct core, then 100% fans and "apply". I can hear like a 3 db drop in the system it's pulling so much. That's all w/o touching ANY OC settings, so maybe it's a bug with EVGA PX? Because I don't think it should be going that high as K-boost doesn't actually OC. 188mhz increase is extremely impressive w/o even technically OCing, but I need a bigger PSU and have to investigate more if this is normal or not. It's not rated that high, but is an "OC" model. So be careful in case yours does the same thing. Temps were sitting around 34c 100% fans 1328 -Quiet. I have a ton of case and internal fans running constantly at 100% (along with liquid cooling on CPU) to keep case, board, RAM, etc. temps down and I sleep with fan always on at night, so don't even notice those as it's white noise to me. Forcing card fans at 100% in EVGA PX I can't even hear them. Temps idle at 26c with fans at 100%. -NO coil whine. -Powerful card. Maxes every single setting on GTA V, though a 500mb loss going to ultimate shadows is a little extreme but not card's fault. Wish it had 6gb for this price. -Actual REAL HDMI hookup. Previous card had a mini HDMI and the weight of the cable was an issue with that. Was thrilled to see a full sized HDMI hook up as noblonger need adapter -Beautiful card to look at it., and the box it shipped in was impressive. Even came in a custom-fit foam lined center area. Like those custom sniper rifles come in in the movies ;) -Passmark's "Performance Test" puts this card at roughly 18% to 25% less than the GTX 980. If planning 4k, go 980. If 1080p, 970 should be fine, and when prices drop again pick 2nd up for less and SLI for next 3-4 years -Got it right before price jumped $30

Cons: -Big and heavy. -Did I mention it's big? I had to spend a ton of time rerouting the power supply wires with twist ties and zip ties JUST to shoehorn the thing into the opening on the side of the case as cables were in the way. Case is fairly large as it is, but if my CD rom drive was one slot lower, the card would hit it. -I had to take a wooden dowel rod slightly thicker than a pencil, cut it to size, then hold the card "up" in place with some pretension while I tightened the 2 screws on the back to help pre-load some tension into the card, then stick dowel rod under one of the coils exiting the heat sink and essentially make it a "prop rod" to help distribute the weight. No other area on card was solid enough to do this with as the fan case is plastic and would flex over time, which is bad obviously. Used more twist ties to pin the bottom of rod to base of case and also to some rigid PSU cables that were sturdy, so it doesn't fall. Rod lifts corner of card about 1-2mm (that's about how much it was sagging after pre-loading it) Running a 990FXA-GD80V2 board, which despite being sturdy, this card with the heat sink is too heavy and would cause sag over time w/o prop. Sag + heat might crack traces or weaken soldered joints over time, so be careful. Other option would be run run tip ties from top case holes and wrap one around a copper pipe and essentially "hang" it from above to avoid sag. WARNING, only pull zip tie just enough to lift a 1mm so card's board is horizontal. Over tightening can cause reverse sag in the form of too much lift. Just want enough to carry weight, but not flex anything. If ever need to remove, just use wires snips (carefully, wouldn't want to snip something important or slip and short something; do NOT use scissors as they can slide OFF plastic zip ties and you might damage something- you were warned) -Dunno if this technically a con or not, but you MUST use the step-down connector for power hook up. I actually had an 8 and 6 pin connector as part of the PSU supply wires, hooked those up, started PC, then immediately got a warning saying I had to use the supplied step-down connector. So, be sure to use it! Thankfully it was super easy to get at. -nvidia auto forces a ton of junk you do NOT need with the drivers now like three 3D services, nvidia Experience, and something else I can't remember. Don't bother installing driver from CD, just go to nvidia's site and get most recent driver as it'll be optimized anyways for most current games . When prompted, choose default location, custom install. Only install what you need like the driver and the other thing (only technically need 2 of the offerings). If you don't it'll run 5-6 processes constantly in background. -I also suggest going into the nvidia install folder after upgrading to this card, and manually deleting all previous driver versions if update frequently. I was shocked to see 4gb worth of old drivers sitting in there.

Overall Review: -Make sure your power supply can handle this card!! The card's box actually states you need a minimum "500w" power supply, which is EXTREMELY misleading! Looking closer at fine box print it states you need a minimum 42 amp (continuous, NOT max) on the 12v+ rail which is typically found in bigger supply units. Example of why you need to be careful: I have a 600w Thermaltake TR2 that clearly states on it's side label it does 32 amp (continuous) on the 12v+ rail. Oddly, Newegg lists it as 22 amp continuous under their spec section, and the actual Thermaltake website ignores listing continuous altogether and states 50 amp MAX while implying 80 amp is the overload limit. A picture of a new TR2 now shows the 50 amp "max" and only shows other max ratings, which I find VERY suspicious to be honest as mine still lists continuous ratings. I run an 8350 which can be a hog, so I'm a good 10 amp under what the card calls for. So far it's played OK and I've only had one complete frezz up, which mat or may not be related, but I will say I never got freezes like that the past. Ignore the wattage ratings on the box/advertisement and pay attention to the ACTUAL continuous amperage the power supply is good for as that's what's needed. Will be upgrading to something bigger soon as I plan to SLI if/when I go 4k. -Make SURE your case is large enough to house this card. You might need to move objects around, reroute wires, etc. Zip ties come in real handy to pull heavier wire bundles out of the way to shoehorn the beast in. Simple trash bag twist ties are handy too for temp holding or small wires, and can be reused. Just be careful as they are metal and touching circuit board can cause shorts if they bridge a circuit. -I'm not sure why or what the deal is/was, but in Passmark's "Performance Test", this thing scored abysmally LOW with 2D sources, across the entire board, as did the GTX 980. I had to take am actual double-take to make sure I was interpreting correctly as I couldn't believe it. The 970 was near identical with 2D performance as my GTX550ti was. Even some older 600 series blew both the 970 and 980 out of the water in the 2D testing area. Either nvidia made compromises in this department for better 3D performance, or the drivers need a serious overhaul. While 2D games are few and far in between anymore, I don't expect to see 5-7 year old outdated card's performance utterly destroy a $320 modern piece. While I'm sure it'll handle a 2D side-scroller or RPG like a champ, it's odd seeing such low performance. Same can be said for DX9. While they excelled at DX 10-11, DX 9 was fairly poor. -To those unaware nvidia released incorrect specs, namely the VRAM allocates 3.5ghz at one speed, then sets aside the remaining .5 at I believe 1/7 of the speed. They also grossly overrated the transfer speeds as they are nowhere near 225gbs. Hopefully this gets addressed correctly either with a voucher or free upgrade. Noticed Newegg removed the speed values.

Pros: Not really sure after all this time.

Cons: I overclocked my old Athlon II X2 250 @4.05Ghz and ran the single core test on Cinebench 11.5 and it's SINGLE CORE score of 1.14 beat out this chip's 1.13 score @ stock 2.80Ghz LOL. Not too bad for a $60 chip.

Pros: -Can finally set everything Ultra @ 4k on demanding modern games - 11GB VRAM!! -Only thing I can find that *can* cripple it is going beyond 4k internal upscaling with everything maxed if a game has the option (ME: Andromeda) -While Nvidia has a strange new way of auto-clocking these cards, it works; can still OC but not really needed at this point. Easily cracks the 2000 range; hits a 1950mhz stock. -**IF** a game states a recommended "RAM" number (i.e. 16gb RAM Recommended) in their description, you BETTER have at LEAST that much if plan on running Ultra-ish settings reliably. For the first time ever, I've actually capped my 16gb RipJaws playing Mass Effect: Adromeda. Had to enable RAM usage in the Afterburner OSD (along with enabling the page file system which had been off for years) after getting a bunch of "Low Memory" warnings after initially maxing everything. Was slack-jawed to see it right at 15.6GB; it could peak at 17gb entering the pause menu or 16gb just standing on the Tempest bridge with page file at 10 gb on top of that!!! So be warned before you blame the gpu for your system's shortcomings as you'll get stuttering and other performance issues with less than ideal RAM. Oddly, the VRAM was barely at 5gb. RAM will be heavily game dependent (some need lots, some don't) -Benching lists show these are near the top fwirw. -Bought before they raised the price again ;)

Cons: -Default fan profile is extremely LAZY for the stock heat sink and it'll be around 84c BEFORE fans even hit 100% and won't even run them at idle temps of 30c, which means it'll react slowly to starting the fans and wait until the point of no return before 100%. You MUST go into Afterburner/Px16 and set a more aggressive fan profile and allow it to run at windows start up. Mine are on low around idle temps 30c~, and 100% by 50c. Costs too much to ignore this. These cards are like bodybuilders on steroids, you need tons of protein and water to keep the muscles strong, so don't be lazy. These are NOT GTX 950 cards. -HEAT @4k with stock cooling in the 70's which can go higher if ambient temp in the room is high. The actual PCB gets HOT as well (don't touch traces or metal; oil/sweat can short things). I always leave my side case cover off as it is, and have a smaller high-flow house fan blowing over the top/bottom for demanding gaming (can use headphones if really wanting quiet). This keeps temps in the upper 50's/mid 60's under heavy gaming (ultra/everything maxed open world) until the water cooler arrives. -250-300w usage means that junky bronze PSU you bought on sale 5 years ago won't cut it. This GPU and modern CPU, etc. will pull tons of current. Go Gold (or better) and get bigger rated PSU. Most PSU will NOT list "continuous" amperage but instead list "peak" which is NO GOOD (way to cheat people w/o breaking laws apparently) . It might be "650 watt" but only able to supply 29 amp cont. and 45a peak, which would cause a GTX970 to act up, let alone a 1080ti. So don't skimp. GO overkill to be safe as you'll probably get gpu crashes/monitor signal lost, VERY erratic benchmarks, etc. shortened life, excess temps, otherwise. I had this problem after a GTX970 upgrade, so learned early. Think of it as upgrading your car's audio system. If you have 150amp worth of draw from a big amplifier that can peak at 190 amp, your stock 95 amp alternator won't cut it as it also has to supply the car's electronics AND the audio. So you'd be smarter getting a 250 amp alt. upgrade to ALWAYS have enough on demand, and future-proofing to some degree. Consider your PSU in the same boat.FWIW, I'm running a Gold 1kw EVGA Super Nova G2 PSU- worth it. -Price. Brutally pricey. Cost as much as a solid running used winter car. Can thank miners for this and retailer gouging. I remember when the 1st Titan came out and was in the $1k range and thinking that was crazy, so ended up getting a GTX 970 instead, which struggled with every game. Bought the 1080ti as I don't want to card jump every year and thought after 35 years of gaming (I'm 40) it was about time to have a legit TOTL card and if lasts 5 years, great.

Overall Review: -If you want 100% reliable, high numbers (FPS, benching) you'll need a modern CPU like a TOTL Intel, AMD, etc. along with an overkill PSU, as much RAM as is required, best cooling, dust maintenance (keep fans and metal clean) etc. I'm still running an FX8350 BE (stock settings as cooler pump died so back on air) and it's barely adequate @4k settings with everything maxed, internal game resolution upscaled, but will "work". -After installing the 1080ti, upgrading the driver (clean install), etc. the monitor (60" Samsung 4k TV/monitor connected via hdmi) kept auto-reverting back to the "PC" input setting, and the computer kept reverting to a "RGB" setting instead of the YCbCr444. "Editing" the "PC" hdmi "Input" in TV settings to "Gaming Console" preset fixed this, though the TV was slow to refresh the actual setting at times. Other presets would revert back to "PC" w/RGB anytime a game was loaded. PITB tbh as the RGB visual quality looks horrendous and causes outlining on everything. My GTX970 wasn't as much of a problem, so something with the 1080ti's hardware via hdmi might cause some minor issues with some TV's "Smart" auto detection. Using HDMI instead of DVI, allows ALL/MOST of the TV's built-in settings to be used on the computer i.e. dejudder, higher sharpness, hdmi-only color settings, HDR, etc. Running DVI and "PC" input actually locks-out a bunch of TV-side settings that can greatly improve your visual experience!

Pros: Previewed earlier with a 3.75Ghz OC. Went a little further and got an OC of 4.05 with an old AMD Athlon II X2 250, but settled with 3.90 as it's not so voltage intensive on the CPU. With the old Mushkin RAM@4gb, I was never able to even get close to these speeds as BSOD happened or or it'd crash before/during Win7 load. With these G.Skill sticks, it easily posted and loaded Win7 even with stock speeds, whereas the Mushkin need a speed reduction to even post at lower cpu Ghz.

Cons: NONE.

Pros: -Cheap -Easy to over clock

Cons: -Only 2 cores -Discontinued?

Overall Review: I've had my 250 for about a year. With a Biostar mobo I hit 3.72Ghz (fully stable). I switched to a cheap MSI board and was only able to hit 3.66Ghz (fully stable) after dialing back the RAM settings and using a water cooler. So, a full year at 3.66Ghz. It's been able to handle everything I've thrown at it, but some of the newer games optimized for 2 or more cores are starting to tax it a bit, (Black Ops 2 MP is really hard on it for some reason, but a RAM stick was near death so it might of been the reason) so I'll be upgrading to a new FX chip soon. If you want an inexpensive chip for day to day or middle of the road gaming, go for it. It also runs fairly cool, even under load.

Pros: After bricking a Biostar BIOS after a bad flash, I bought this board as it was in stock at a local PC shop and cheap. Setup was painless and everything swapped over from the Biostar without issues. -Has plenty of USB headers, (3 of which are 2.0) -4 DIMM for a MAX of 16gb (they've updated the specs to include 1600 ("OC") as the box only listed 1333 as max speed. Currently updating from 2x2gb 1066 sticks to 4x4gb 1600 sticks. They should be here in a day so we'll see if can actually run them or not, otherwise will have to lower the RAM speed to 1333 when I OC the CPU again which will actually be a "Con" but probably needed for stability anyways. -BIOS has a TON of features allowing you to Over Clock the CPU, under/over clock RAM,adjust timing, voltages, security features to prevent/block accidental/malicious BIOS flashing, etc. -Can save (think it's 5 save slots?) more than one Over Clock profile which is EXTREMELY helpful when OC'ing as you can save an OC (as well as name the save which is very nice), start PC, run it, if it hangs, reboot, go back to a previous OC save, etc. It also gives the option to revert to another save (like default setting) in case of start-up trouble, then you can easily reapply the OC after fixing (read about RAM in Other Thoughts). -BIOS is easy to flash, but they haven't updated in awhile (read Cons)

Cons: -Can only run 1 video card, so no SLI here. -Video cards with big fan cases crowd the area and make getting the BIOS battery out near impossible with a GTX 550Ti (or bigger), forcing removal of video card to pull/replace battery, as well as interfering with access to the OC switch, jumper, etc. -Only handles a MAX of 16gb RAM (should be plenty for most, but mhz is limited to 1333 with a possibility of 1600 but not holding my breath). -The 4 DIMMS are too close together so might be an issue with wider heat dissipation covers, and possibly heat issues with the RAM if they are all touching. Recommend a tower case that has top mount puller fan to keep airflow constant over them. -BIOS has NOT been updated to include the newer AMD FX chips yet, so doubt the newer 4, 6, & 8 core FX chips stuff will work properly (if at all) as it's not in the list on MSI site. Only officially supports 6 core Phenoms and lesser chips. http://www.msi.com/product/mb/760GM-P35.html#/?div=CPUSupport -CPU (Max Support) Phenom II -The Easy OC "Switches" did NOT provide a stable OC, so I had to OC manually within the BIOS. -The OC'ing capability of the actual board isn't the greatest. (Read Other Thoughts) -HyperTransport 3.0 supporting speed "up to" 2.6GHz

Overall Review: Running an AMD Athlon II X2 250 with liquid cooling, I was able to go from 3.0Ghz to 3.66Ghz (fully stable) with this board after MANY hours of fine tuning. When I had the pretty basic Biostar board (forget the model- it was a $50 board) it had everything that's attached to this board (only mobo was changed) I was able to OC the same chip to 3.72Ghz (fully stable), so this is why I don't think it's OC ability is the greatest. Had the board for about a year now. Only trouble I've had was a random freezing that occurred once in awhile that I *thought* was due to the OC or possible software conflict, but it turned out one of the sticks of RAM was going bad. One night while letting it download a file while I was away, it froze up. The screen was showing a frozen shot of the desk top. I shut it down, restarted, fans all came on, but no start up screen nor hard drive light/activity. Thought it was dead in the water. Pulled a stick of a RAM, restarted, and was greeted with the failed OC screen. Chose the "Default Settings" and it's been running ever since. This is why I like the "saves" in the BIOS as the old OC settings can be reverted to once the new sticks of RAM are installed, and I hopefully won't have to spend too much time tweaking the old 3.66Ghz save, or one of the other fully stable old saves to avoid starting from scratch. If you are looking for an inexpensive and seemingly reliable, low fuss board with a lot of BIOS options, you *can* get this board , but I'd recommend finding an uprated version of this with the ability to run 2 video cards and the newer AMD FX chips if you are serious about gaming but don't want to spend the money on the Intel stuff and want room to expand/upgrade at a later time.

Purchased a replacement camera lens for a J7 Samsung. Looking online, people have issues with knock-off lenses from other sites, where the lens is a piece of glass w/o the built-in focus correction to get the camera in focus. The knock-offs cause a slight blurring that can't be corrected, or same as if the lens was removed. After seeing one here, figured "newegg" wouldn't offer a knock-off vendor and bought one at NON-knock-off pricing. It shipped extremely quick. However, upon opening and removing the plastic protector, the black paint from the glass immediately lifted up. Went ahead and tried applying it with the included self-adhesive anyways, then went into camera mode. Both picture and video were blurred. Everything was inspected beforehand and was clean. After about 4 hours, turned camera over and the lens fell off. So, to recap: 1. Paint peeled off glass immediately after removing protective cover it shipped with 2. Lens does NOT have a prescription strength added to it, so it will never be in focus 3. Adhesive, despite being applied correctly and on clean surfaces, failed after 4 hours 4. Absolutely NO instructions, no receipt, nothing, I mean NOTHING else was added other than the actual lens itself Was a waste of time and money. Dunno how you can correct a knock-off and this ordeal wasted enough of my time.