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Pros: * Solid - Made from extruded aluminum
* Easily mountable to a solid surface
* Outlets spaced far enough apart for a combination of wall-warts and standard plugs
Cons: * Input cord located on face, rather than end
Other Thoughts: The input power cord is excessively long for my needs, but it sits behind furniture and is hidden. The cord length may be a positive for others. I have not shortened it. Read on...
My plan was to modify this thing from the onset, and it worked out extremely well.
I purchased some round hole-mount switches, emptied this power strip out, drilled for the switches, then reassembled. I have five of the eight outlets individually switched, to give me a true power-off for some of my devices, such as a Roku2 and a powered subwoofer, while leaving power on to devices which typically don't need full-off, such as a TV and A/V receiver. I also reoriented a few of the outlets by 90 degrees, making them more friendly to older-style wall-warts which cover an adjacent outlet when plugged in to a strip like this.
The innards are fairly simple to disassemble if you're reasonably familiar with construction of such electrical items, and rewiring is also simple enough if you're able to solder. The lugs of the outlets even slide out easily upon disassembly of the sockets, so there's no reason you couldn't reconfigure such a power strip as your needs might change in the future.
The width and depth of this unit is fairly small, making it compact for what it is, but it also allows more than enough room for installing various switches of a compact type. I have mine mounted below sight behind a TV on my furniture, close to the top, allowing me to easily reach and feel the switches. Roku gets warm when powered on and no option to turn it off: Switch off, no power use. Subwoofer always has a light on regardless of on/auto/off setting: Switch off, no power use. Wii game console can be turned off, but what about that brick that's always using power? -- Switch off, no power use. I don't want my TV and A/V receiver to have a total power-off, so they're always-on with this setup. Works out great, and saves me money on my electricity bill.
Pros: * Price
* Build quality
Cons: * One DP out
* Crimson driver instead of Catalyst = Bloatware
Other Thoughts: Bought this card to replace an XFX card that had bad HDMI nodes: Erratic DP, HDMI and DVI out, seemingly independent of cables and connections. This Sapphire card exhibits none of these issues.
I would have preferred a pair of DP outputs to keep slim cables as the connections, but I just sucked it up and used the dual DVI outs for balanced outputs from the same output block. I wasn't willing to spend a monstrous gob of money on a replacement, but this card is an upgrade to the XFX, it's running cool, has great output stability and performance, and was priced right. It's also exhibiting less tearing and fragmenting with 1080p fast-motion video playback, which is to be expected with double the VRAM and a newer GPU core.
I've had Sapphire products before, and was pleased with their price/performance ratio. This card appears to be a continuation of that nice balance of price vs. performance, making the Sapphire cards a very good value.
Pros: *Inexpensive for the technology offered
*Tiny and compact, making placement easy
*Easy to setup and install
*WPS button on-board
Cons: *Driver software written in 'Chinglesh'
*Software occasionally lacks connected status
*Software required to use adapter
*Software can be confusing; not intuitive
Other Thoughts: After trying this and a few other wireless adapters on a Win7 x64 system, it has come to light that some older versions of ZoneAlarm firewall can interfere with proper operation of wireless adapters, including PCI, PCIE, and even USB, including this one. The solution is to save settings for ZA, uninstall ZA, install wireless adapter according to instructions, set it up for your situation, confirm function, reboot several times, then(and ONLY THEN) reinstall ZA. Even Micro$oft won't admit to such a problem, but it's quite prevalent. Just a heads-up. Newer versions of ZA may not be afflicted with this problematic situation.
Also, consider physical placement. This adapter works well when in close proximity to an access point, but performs rather poorly if the signal has no direct path. You may do well to grab an additional cable/base for experimental placement for better reception, as I had to do.
Overall, this adapter doesn't pull in such a strong signal as my ASUS PCIE adapter, and I will probably go back to that one soon. This Hawking unit has served me well as a testbed for figuring out problems within my own situation, and works reasonably well, so I'll keep it as a backup for my laptop system and/or experimental purposes, but it makes for a poor alternative to fully-connected PCI/PCIE solutions installed directly to the bus of a desktop machine.