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Pros: lots of room for overhead cpu cooler (why i bought it), more room for gpu
not super huge
Cons: front door has no vents...?
no window fan, considering the bottom is now blocked by a bottom compartment...?
Bottom compartment is unnecessary and confines space that would have made for even more room, airflow and easier access
power button / usb placement could have been behind door or at least had a slide cover on top, going to collect dust up there
no rubber wire guards, but then again, I dont remember a case ive had that did have them
storage drive placements seems overkill
no bottom fan placement (obviously because of the bottom compartment)
no removable screen for psu
Other Thoughts: top is open with vent like cover... im on the fence about this, maybe i'll make a hinge for it.
2 mods right off the bat are side window fan and front door airflow
could have implemented holders for ssd's where hdd's are for the choice of having them in the front location instead of on top of the psu and then theres a third location for yet another ssd. seriously, who has that many ssd's!? even with just one ssd, those locations are horrible.
fan control switch seems useless / unnecessary. I guess the option is there for those who use it.
I gave this a four because while no case is perfect (pricing being the biggest issue) I have to mod it, the window fan being the tricky part, but the door really should have had side vents or at least the side where you open it, making it easier to open as well as doubling as a vent.
Im not to happy with the bottom compartment, could have made interchangeable brackets where the hdd's are and left the bottom open.
I havent opened it all the way up yet. it does look like you can have a front fan for the bottom compartment, but i would just as well have a bottom fan also and no compartment at all. A lot of modding to save a couple bucks and get a look that wasnt weird and not super big.
bottom line, even if you dont mod it, the price point cant be beat (atm $55).
Overall Im happy with it
Cons: BSOD after few days
Other Thoughts: BSOD after few days? Not sure whats up. Asus P8Z77 - V Deluxe, i5 3570K (oced to 4.5) went into BIOS and used XMP, seemed fine, running Fallout 4 for several days (I can play for hours on end and not realize what time it is) and today BSOD... didnt get the error code though. Only other thing Ive replaced was the GPU (EVGA 1070 FE) but I havent OCed it. Soooooo Im kinda bummed out, my CPU has been OCed for 2-3yrs now with no BSOD. Not sure if its isolated. I'll run Memtest first but will have a replace in the works. Only thing is Asus website doesnt have this listed in the QVL, but the g.skill website has the Asus mobo listed....?
Update: So im going to up this to a 4 egg for 2 reasons. 1 did memtest and no errors, so the RAM itself is good, BUT it did say its susceptible to hammer row bit flips (i googled it and all memory is susceptible to this, even ddr4). BUT im not sure if this is isolated to Fallout 4...? What ended up happening was I IBTed my CPU with the new RAM. Unfortunately had to down clock from email@example.com to firstname.lastname@example.org. Ran the test in standard @ 4.5 and passed , went to high and failed. tried rasing the voltage, but it was already at 80C and it BSODed anyways. So I lowered the clock and obviously kept testing and lowering the voltage until it passed 20 passes at very high 122gflops, whatever that means, at 74C. Now, Im not 100% that my system was stable in the first place at 4.5 1.26v, I did run prime for 48hours on that with no errors, but that was 3 years ago. So Im not sure if upgrading my memory from 8g 1600mhz to 16g 2400mhz had something to do with lowering the clock of the CPU to make it stable again...? There is a definitive way of finding out, but im not going to waste my time with putting the old ram back and and re-testing with prime, IBT, line X, blah blah blah, cuz from what Ive read is it can pass on 2 and fail on 1, meaning theres something wrong. Ive also read that IBT is obsolete...? And to just use LineX...? Because most people cant be bothered with running prime for days on end.... and i dont blame them. Either way, I personally think that IBT showed me that no program will ever do what IBT does to my computer and that Im 95% sure that I shouldnt get another BSOD. I havent as of yet, played FO4. Only time will tell. 2 is Im unsure if this particular RAM with my MB and CPU play well with eachother? As i stated before, Im unsure if my system was completely stable as of 3 yrs ago, but nothing I threw at it made it BSOD UNTIL I put this new RAM in it. Now, Im blaming the RAM and not the GPU. I could be the GPU. Id really hate and I mean HATE to think its the GPU BSODing my machine, BUT now that it is stable (in my mind) I'll just have to do more testing with the game itself and GPU stress tests and either wait for it to BSOD so I can get a code to definitively find the problem or nothing happen at all and blame the RAM. And why upgrading my RAM would make me down clock my CPU has got me all types of confused... but anythings possible I suppose AND I do NOT have all the data to come to a conclusion.
I will update this further after more tests.
My advice for anyone getting RAM that has little knowledge about RAM (as I do, but have since learned enough) In your MB's QVL for memory list, you'll see speeds with more brands or just all together more available for that speed, I suggest sticking with that speed and exact timings and you should be able to use any (brand/size) RAM, not just whats listed. Im not sure which list to trust more, the MB or RAM. If I had to choose, Id choose the MB list.
Now I remember you use to be able to just stick any ram in your mb and it would just work (obviously it would adjust to all work together, now I may be wrong on this but its what I use to do and never had any problems, but then again I never OCed anything either) My point is as tech gets more and more advance it seems now you have to be more exact ( as per now you need two sticks that are identical to use together ) OR you could have stability issues when OCed. Im not saying you still cant mix and match RAM, im still reading people still do that, BUT when OCed its highly recommended to stick with matched units thus having less issues with stability, hence why im blaming the RAM and not my GPU (which I have yet to OC)
I know this has been winded, but I hope it helps someone and if it doesnt, then research, research, reseach! If you cant or wont do that, you probably shouldnt be OCing anything. And OCing RAM is super simple, hit XMP in the BIOS, done! Anything over that is playing with the timings and even if you did find better timings, from what ive read you might get another 5% out of it. So yeah, this RAM is NOT 2400 default, default is 19xx or something like that, XMP will make it 2400mhz at 1.65v or you can put those numbers in manually, but auto detect (default) will put it lower. SO 2400 IS OCed.
Use any info in my review at your own risk! Im an enthusiast hobbyist NOT a tech rep.
Pros: Cant beat the price with a lead pipe.
Bright, colorful, and sleek design.
60hz, 120hz or 144hz.
Love the stand, raise up and down, tilt option and swivel.
3D is awesome!
Best GAMING monitor out there for the price!
Cons: Wall mounters will have to mod the back to mount. (no biggy, i love the stand).
Speakers are in the rear. (I dont care, i use 5.1 speakers.)
Other Thoughts: First and foremost, this IS a GAMING monitor.
The price per quality and design. Less of the wall mount optional and speakers being in the rear. Youre not going to find a better 120hz 3D monitor anywhere, probably even today. (i bought this a year ago).
As far as colors out of the box, c'mon, what monitor have you ever bought where you didnt have to change the colors, even minor changes. Mine in particular was minor.
This is a TN Panel, NOT IPS. IPS will never be 120hz. Google it.
Hz... for those of you who know, u can skip this, for those who think they know, google it after you read. Dual Link is a dead cable, the only reason they keep it, is for people who dont want to buy new monitors. HDMI is fine for computers but it does NOT support 120hz, let alone 144hz (EXCEPT version 1.4b) WITH which i might add you need a monitor that also supports 1.4b HDMI. This is NOT that monitor. Of little importance HDMI also loses digital info over lengths of 6 feet i believe, regardless, who has there tower 6 feet from there monitor? Anyways, its still a gaming monitor and with gaming comes graphics cards, so more than likely gamers have a big fat card with a Display Port, which does support 120hz and 144hz. I believe it goes all the way up to 240hz (dont quote me on 240hz, lol)
As the source, graphics cards use the 120hz refresh rate of the monitor for the Frames Per Second of the application in use, i.e. a video game.
The 120hz TV is a gimmick to sell you a TV. Cable and satellite are recorded and or broadcast in 33hz. DVDs and Blu-Ray are recorded at 33hz. PS3 and XBox 360 i believe are recorded at 60hz. HDMI works fine on it because nothing going through is more than 60hz.
So unless you use your 50" tv for your computer, that 120hz doesnt come into play. Sure its there, but you'll never use it. Which from what i understand, there are very limited tv's with Display Port to even utilize the 120hz.
Bottom line, you need a graphics card that pushes 120 FPS, a Display Port to Display Port Cable, a monitor that supports both 120hz, Display Port and an application to use it, which would be almost any PC video game.
As for the 3D, I saw the "ghosting", but it was minimal and you really have to look for it. Mostly its when either a very dark object in the foreground is on a very bright background or vis versa. So if you have a game that is like that alot, you'll probably notice it more often than not. Even so, its tolerable.
My Rig (1 year old)
CPU: Intel i-5 3570K 3.4 oced 4.5 @ 1.25v (68° C full load
enclosed liquid cooled push/pull fans)
MB: Asus P8Z77-V LK LGA 1155 Intel Z77
RAM: 2 x 4Gig Corsair Dominators
VCARD: 2 x SLI Nvidia (EVGA) GTX 660 Ti OC
PSU: Corsair CX750 watt
Tower: Thermaltake Commander (white)