Pros: Strong PSU for a med-high gaming rig. My Specs: CPU: i5-2500K MB: DP67BGB3 RAM: 16GB (4x4GB) PNY DDR3 1333 GPU: PNY GTX560 CPU HeatSink: EVGA SuperClock Cooler HDD1 (OS): WD CaviarBlue 320 HDD2 (Aux): WD CaviarGreen 500 PSU: Corsair GS600 Optical: LiteOn iHAS524 Windows7 64bit Runs my GTX560 no problem. 12V Rail only drops from 12.16V to 12.03V once the GTX560 starts to crank up on Battlefield3 and draws power off the dual-6pin PCIe 12V power connectors. System is stable and runs BF3 for hours with no glitches. (a drop of only 0.13V is pretty good for when a card starts pulling 100-150Watts off the 12V rail) I like the blue LED (and it has a switch to turn it off if you don't. Fully sleeved cables.

Cons: The biggest thing was that the 8-pin CPU power was a bit short from the bottom mount on my Mid-tower ATX case. It reaches if I run it up over the MoBo, but I wanted to tuck it away using the wire management, so I had to get an extension. (12" extension was plenty long enough) The shrink tubing where the cable sleeves end is a little stiff, but the connectors seem to contact just fine in the instances that I had to bend the cable to plug it in. SATA power connectors are upside-down if you mount this on the bottom of a case, a little annoying but it worked anyway. Basicly your SATA cable will run up to the top HD/Optical then plug in sequence moving down from drive to drive. This wasn't really a problem for me. After some thought and 1 or 2 tries at different wire routing, I even made it look all nice and neat with my large side window looking into the case.

Overall Review: I bought this at a retail store because I had coup'ns and was able to save some $$. If I had to pay full price I would have bought it off Newegg.

Pros: none

Cons: After the manufacturer response stated that I should contact them using the "special" VIP@antec.com address, I did just that. In a very proffesional and civil email I told them that I had already replaced the heatsink with a different design (PWM fan clip-to-front) and would not be using their replacement policy, since that would just leave me with a superfluous, homeless heatsink. I invited them to make another arrangements, suggesting that if they paid for the shipping (UPS call-tag, not difficult to arrange at all), I would send it back for a refund in the form of a check or pre-paid debit card. I also stated that I fully understand that, sometimes, a faulty product will make it past QC and that I've bought other Antec products in the past with success and didn't hold any grudges with the company. They could have responded and told me if those terms were acceptable or if they would refund it as long as I paid the shipping costs, but they didn't respond at all.

Overall Review: Basicly the "Manufacturers Response" is a sham. They only post it to look good to the people reading the reviews, but have no intention of actually following through with the correspondence. I would have understood if they had responded and told me that they could only do this or that in accordance with their return policies. After all, they're a business and their goal is to make profit and minimize loss as much as possible, but it's been 3 weeks and I still haven't got a response. Clearly, they just don't care. The "Manufacturers Response" was just a tool to maintain an *image* of service, nothing more, and with no intent to actually improve service or relations.

Pros: Got this as an earlier release under a different name. See OTHER THOUGHTS for details. Keeps my i5-2500K with a mild overclock to 4.0GHz at a comfortable 55C under heavy gaming like BattleField3. I actually haven't heard the fan spin up to max yet so I can still improve on that with some BIOS fan tweaking if I choose. If you ever need to replace the fan, it clips in fine with no hassles. (I didn't like the LED's)

Cons: Cannot run a push-pull set up. There aren't any clips/hooks to put a fan on the back. But I'm also running a 2500K at 4.0GHz at 55C under load with a conservatively quiet fan profile, sooo... yeah, unless you're an extreme overclocker, the one 70CFM fan is more than adequate. So that's still not really a con.... Red LED's. My case theme is blue so I just got a non-LED fan with the same CFM rating. Not really a con, just a personal preference. Though, you now know that a replacement fan will clip in just fine if you ever need it, no hassles there.

Overall Review: Got this a year earlier when it was called "EVGA Superclock Cooler" which can be seen here: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835288001 looks familiar doesn't it? It disappeared off the market for a while which kinda disappointed me because THIS IS A TRULY EXCELLENT COOLER. Happy to see it released again under a new name.

Pros: It's a good product, does the job that it's supposed to do. SD, microSD, and MemoryStick card slots all work. I don't have any CompactFlash cards so I can't say anything good/bad about that slot. Plugged in a new WD Scorpio Blue HDD into the dock and it was recognized right away, just had to go through the usual initial formatting since it was a brand-new drive. No problems there. 2.5" drive snapped in just fine, just align the little nubs to fit in the HDD's side screw-holes. Mounted drive slides into the dock with no binding, smooth and slick with a *click* once the front pinch-tabs secure it.

Cons: Some other reviews have stated that the LED's are really bright... They're right... the LED's aren't just bright, they're NUCLEAR-FREAKIN'-SUN-BRIGHT. However, my computer has a front door/panel that closes over and covers up the dock/reader and conveniently covers up the LED's, so it's no problem for me :P

Overall Review: As far as the card slots taking up drive letters... well... yeah, that's what they do. Anytime you put a card in, Windows7 auto-detects it anyway and asks if you want to open it to view files, so I doubt that the average user (or even power user) will ever need to access it by the drive-letter anyway. Yes, USB ports are "upside-down" but we've all played that game of "Am I putting the USB cord in the right way?" on normal ports so that's kind of moot. Some card slots are a little tight and you have to push firmly to get the card in, but will probly loosen up a little more with further use.

Pros: If you haven't figured it out yet from all the other reviews, this really is an awesome chip. The only limitations you will encounter are the limitations of the Motherboard that you put it on. Overclocked to 4.0MHz on 4 active cores. Simply just turned up the Turbo Multiplier in BIOS and set my PWM fan parameters for the CPU cooler to a profile that I liked, then just let it go. 4.0 is nothing to these chips, they just take it in stride and ask for more (just make sure you adjust your voltages if you want to go crazy-high). Seriously, these chips are stupid-easy to mildly overclock. The only overclocking issues you might have are if you didn't get a Motherboard that's good for overclocking.

Cons: Isn't an AI that will do all of my nefarious biddings and allow me to take over the world.

Overall Review: Unless you get a DOA chip (it happens, no QA department is perfect and up to a 1% defect rate hitting retail is perfectly acceptable considering we're all human) these things are absolutely spectacular. I'd take the 2500K over it's IvyBridge equivalent any day. CPU: i5-2500K MB: DP67BGB3 RAM: 16GB (4x4GB) PNY DDR3 1333 GPU: PNY GTX560 CPU HeatSink: EVGA SuperClock Cooler HDD1 (OS): WD CaviarBlue 320 HDD2 (Aux): WD CaviarGreen 500 PSU: Corsair GS600 Optical: LiteOn iHAS524 Windows7 64bit

Pros: Handles most everything with ease. Battlefield3 is rendered beautifully with no problems even when bullets are flying and buildings are exploding all around, no slowdowns. Bare, unboxed card survived falling off the table and onto the floor when my cat jumped up and knocked it off the table during the build. Installed and runs fine. Your results with cats may vary. The card is different than the one pictured (until Newegg updates or PNY changes stock). The card is an inch or so longer than the specs state because it has a "squirrel cage"/turbine fan on the end. Maybe it uses the new Vapor Chamber heatsink technology like the high-end GTX5xx cards? *maybe* It's same design as the 560 in the Battlefield3 Bundle, Newegg item#N82E16814133433 (which makes sense so they can save $$ by not selling 2 versions of the same card) The card is just nearly as long as my DP67BGB3 ATX motherboard is wide, so as long as your drive bays don't hang over the MB you should be fine.

Cons: The Pink Screen of Death is *NOT* a problem with the card hardware, just some driver releases are glitchy. The Pink Screen failure has been documented on the forums extensively, though Nvidia would rather sweep it under the rug until it's solved (hopefully) in the next driver release. What happens is the driver errors and fails and then has to be recovered by Windows. Windows7 has a little pop up box from the task bar that states "Nvidia driver failed and was recovered." Allegedly it may or may not be a problem with Hardware Acceleration in Flash Video. The easy fix for this is to use a different driver. I had the issue with the latest driver release (it shows up on both beta and certified releases). I uninstalled the problem driver version and downloaded Certified (WHQL) Driver v295.73. No more pink screens since then (been about a month now). So as of the time of this writing, v295.73 is the latest driver that WORKS for me with NO glitches, pink screens, or problems

Overall Review: I downloaded the latest version of Nvidia System Tools to create a custom cooling fan load profile. Before, it ran sustained Battlefield3 gaming at 70C on 40% fan. Now it runs at 60C with 70% fan (that's ~20 degrees ferenheit lower) and fan speed spins up so that it never really touches 75C when being worked hard. Nvidia specs say that it can handle up to 99C, but I'm paranoid about that. You can also use Nvidia System Tools to overclock but I haven't seen the need to do that. Everything is already super-shiny. (It looks like voltage is locked so you can't go too crazy anyway) Idles at 33C All my temp values are real temp, not that ▲T value (difference between surface and ambient) that some people use to make it sound lower. I don't run Folding@Home so I can't vouch for load temps when running that beast.