Pros: 1. No set-up hassles from the device. 2. No configuration needed (unless you want it encrypted, which I opted to not do) once the main one is synched with the router. 3. Initially used on streaming network camera in another part of the house - worked flawlessly. 4. I wasn't stupid and got the minimum 2 needed to work.

Cons: 1. The Flashing blue "Home Network" light indicating connection to and data passing from another device is pretty bright. A piece of electrical tape works great to mute that. 2. Although it's not a flaw on the part of the device, it would be good to make sure people already HAVE one if they only order one, or provide a simple explanation (like: Requires 2 for first connection, then 1 each additional connection) for those (unlike me) not willing to do the research as to how they're set up in the first place.

Overall Review: I had set up my PTZ network camera through a wireless access point made from an already dying Linksys e1000 router upgraded with DD-WRT. The router kept overheating and dying, disconnecting me from the camera. Restarting it always worked for about an hour. That got tedious. I can't drill a hole to run a wire (not my house - I rent), so saw this as the next best wired option. I have a LOT of electronics running through a very few outlets, making finding a direct connection to the outlets hard to do. I ended up using a 6 outlet adapter, a 3 outlet adapter and a very short (6") heavy duty extension cord in one case to connect everything up - despite the warning not to use extension cords or power strips. Both will work fine if you have a "direct connection", short cords and without going through a surge protector circuit. The camera stream is flawless, running at about 70 MBPS. It worked so great, I got another one for my wife's gaming laptop, which is struggling on w

Pros: - Altered product description that is more accurate now than when I bought the drive.

Cons: - Manufactured in June 2011. -Tsunami/Earthquake affected QC means highly unreliable drives. - Product description changed as I was writing this review to include the words "with seller" to the "1 year warranty" line.

Overall Review: This review isn't about the seller, whom I will review once the RMA process is done. It's about old hard drives and specifically about ones made after March 2011. The Japan megaquake at the time seriously disrupted the manufacturing of electronics in the region - among them WD hard drives. As a consequence, for the next eighteen to twenty four months, the reliability of the WD Blues (specifically) and the Greens pretty much tanked. So much so that in December, 2012, WD LOWERED the warranty terms on the Blues and Greens from 3 years to 2. The drive I got (made in 2011) had the warranty expire in June of 2014. As an IT tech, I saw up to a 40% annual failure rate in that two years following the Earthquake (the usual rate was 3-5%), with the majority of them dying within 90 days with only low to average use. A few articles clued me into the likely problem and I started ordering my drives with the caveat that they be made BEFORE March 2011. The failure rate for drives made between September 2012 and March 2013 was higher than normal (5-10%) but drives made in March 2013 and later seem to be just fine. So any drive made in those two years are EXTREMELY suspect as to their reliability and I would NOT recommend anyone buy one. Make sure it has a MANUFACTURER'S WARRANTY, not a seller's warranty. WD does a very good job with their RMA/warranty program. Resellers may, or may not, reach that high level of excellence, but I'd not want to be sitting with a dead drive and dealing with someone who may not even bother answering e-mails. Failing that, make VERY SURE it wasn't made in the danger zone time. If it was, and you can't get your money back, go ahead and use it for a paperweight, because that is what it will end up becoming sooner than later, and you'll spare yourself the aggravation and waste of time setting it up to have it fail.

Pros: It's an absolutely no frills computer case

Cons: - No fans. - Light-weight and flimsy. - CAN NOT MOUNT FANS LARGER THAN 80 MM!!! (Yes, I know the specifications say it can, but it can't without drilling new holes.)

Overall Review: Look, this is a cheap tin box. It's too cheap to return, so I'll eat the cost, but the fans I ordered won't fit, the description doesn't say it can't take 120 fans and it's got nothing else at all to recommend it. If you want to build a QUIET computer, look elsewhere. This won't cut it. Your fans will be too small and have to run too fast to be quiet. I'll order a new case with at least the capacity to mount fans but I'm getting really tired of buying cases that are utter junk - this is two in a row. I know this is cheap, but they said it would mount a 120 MM fan on the side (at least) and it won't. Not even close. So it goes in the trash and I order another one and I'm angry as hell about it.

Pros: - It has a large Power button - It's relatively low cost

Cons: - Case is put together poorly - Non-standard sizes makes mounting hardware difficult. - Mis-matched holes due to improperly-aligned metal.

Overall Review: This thing is a steaming pile of you know what (thanks, New Egg for censoring G rated words!). I've built HUNDREDS of computers in my time and never have I encountered this level of garbagetry in my life. The metal is thin and easily bendable, except the takeouts which are razor sharp and/or unyielding. The plastic breaks at the slightest pressure. Mounting a standard-sized DVD player is impossible without removing the power supply and even then, the mis-aligned slots mean you almost need a hammer to get it into position. And once you get it into position, using their mounting guides, you find out that the pop-down cover for the CD won't CLOSE. Worse, if you want to dispense with the pop-down cover, there's a gaping hole and sides that impinge on the CD player, making the whole front misshaped. I'm using my Ka-Bar to whittle it to size. And I haven't even tried mounting the MB yet! It takes me about half an hour, tops, to put together a computer with a decent case. I've been screwing around with this illegitimate male offspring of an unwed mother for over an hour. Unfortunately, thanks to whatever microencephalic executive who decided that every few days case designs have to change, I can't ever seem to get the good cases from yesteryear. The ones that were solid, well built, well designed and relatively inexpensive. This is inexpensive, yes, and it's cheap as hell. I'm considering returning it because given the unbelievably poor quality that went into it, I'm concerned that the power supply will fry everything when I turn it on. I'm going to see if my old system's PS will work. If it will, I'll think about keeping this or swapping out this case with another old computer's. But I know one thing: NEVER BUY THIS CASE! Glad I have the Google guarantee on this thing because I'm pretty fricking sure I'm going to need it.

Pros: Connected to computer just fine. Worked once I had all the BT ancillary drivers installed. Any surface laser eliminates need for mouse pads.

Cons: No programming or button allocation drivers (strictly a basic mouse). Kind of choppy for fine work. Somewhat loud clicker (A mouse pad or soft surface helps make it quieter).

Overall Review: I have an old, moderately abused ASUS hand-me-down with two of the three USB ports messed up (devices left in them and the tabs broken off so they can't connect to cables) by the previous owner. I wanted to set it up as a thin client to my main computer. I had an extra wireless KB that didn't come with a wireless mouse, so needed a mouse (touchpads are not an option for me). This mouse serves the role for limited functions. I don't recommend it for browsing (no back button on it) and definitely do not recommend ANY wireless devices (Keyboard OR Mouse) for gaming. It's comfortable enough for what I need and my only problem with it was in rebuilding the computer (It originally came with Vista Home, and I upgraded the drive and OS to Win 7 Pro), I didn't install a "wireless utility" driver, which was needed to run the Bluetooth devices (little did I know). I figured that out and got the mouse to finally work once the utility was installed. For a basic work-place mouse, with the "any surface" abilities of a laser, it does the job. As long as you don't need more, I'd highly recommend it. If you do need more, a wired gaming laser mouse is a good choice.

Pros: - Lots of USB ports - Low cost (when I got it) - PCI interface (NOT PCIe, by the way) - Good compatibility across the full range of MB's. - Plug and play (Win 7 did not need drivers).

Cons: - For full cases only. - Uncertain about Win 8 compatibility. - Not USB 3.0

Overall Review: I use a lot of USB devices for gaming, art, photography, etc. Very few of my devices are USB 3.0. When I built my new system, I wanted to make sure I had enough USB ports. I wanted to get rid of the stack of hubs I had and wanted to push most of my semi-permanent connections to the back of my computer. This adapter allowed me to dump one hub entirely, which went a very long way to clearing my workspace from entangling wires. It's worked perfectly well since I installed it. Its run my scanners and the connections to my game pad, camera port and scanners since the beginning without a hitch. For the number of ports it has and its relatively low cost, it's an excellent choice if you have a full size case, don't need USB 3.0 and are running Win 7, XP or Kubuntu/Ubuntu Linux. I can't say beyond those OS's since I didn't try it in any other system, but I would think, unless otherwise mentioned in the specs, that it can work with any OS in any device that has USB 2.0 compatibility and an open PCI slot.