Joined on 05/13/07
Two months, still ticking
Pros: -Under-switch lighting as opposed to having an LED on one side of the switch. This allows for more even lighting, which is especially good if you install translucent or transparent keycaps, but light still favors the side closer to the cable. -Lighting affects every light, not just the mechanical keys, with the exceptions of the Num, Cap and Scrl lock lights, those stay white. -Lighting effects include ability to control brightness, color and across-the-board effects like ripples, waves, or gradients. -Ability to make multiple profiles and trigger them with different software (I think?) so you can change the layout for different games. If not, you can also set up a hotkey or combination to switch profiles. -The software also can deal with macro setups. -Detachable wrist-rest, and needs no tools to install it. -Dedicated media and volume controls. -Solid feel and nice aluminum brushed finish.
Cons: -Software is not very intuitive, so it will take some getting used to if you don't read the manual. But 136 pages will also take some time to read. -Unnecessary two step process to update firmware: You press a link to download the .zip file, then you use another button to tell it where the file is. It could all be a one-click action. -USB chord is not detachable. -It uses two USB connectors, it's understandable, but could be an inconvenience to some. -There are a few side effects inherent to using separate data links. If you put your computer to sleep while the keyboard is lighted, you won't be able to use the brightness button for anything. The keyboard won't wake your computer from sleep. Unplugging it and plugging it back on while the computer remains on sleep mode will trigger "demo mode", which is the default red/white scheme that if untouched, would be followed by rainbow effects. Perfect if you are planning to light your Christmas tree with the keyboard. -Space key gets light only on the switch, this makes it look kind of empty when you put a translucent or transparent cap on it. -Unlike other keyboards, the folding feet on this one do not have rubber tips to keep it from sliding around.
Overall Review: -This isn't for everyone, especially if you don't think a keyboard should cost more than your weekly allowance lol. Thank goodness I'm not a bum and I'm single. It's also not for anyone who would not want to spend more than a minute to set up color schemes and animations. -Unlike other gaming mechanical keyboards, you don't get any extra keycaps and keycap puller. This might be good or bad depending if you already have a bunch of keycap pullers and your own keycaps, which I do. -About the keycaps, a few people have said that this keyboard isn't as bright as other brands of RGB keyboards, if you buy one and think the same, just buy translucent or transparent keycaps, I know it's a bit extra, but if you bought this keyboard, I'm sure you'll like the extra bright and shiny look. Careful, though, buying keycaps can be addictive. I recommend Max Keyboard, I have some Portal keycaps on mine. -The back feet don't tilt the board as high as my previous keyboard. I guess that's ok since at the angle I sit, it would be too incorrect ergonomically, but it could have two feet of different sizes together, one inside the other like other boards, and then you use the one that fits your needs. -First time trying out Cherry MX Brown, and I expected a stronger bump for tactile feedback. It seems it's very easy for me to accidentally double-press a key. This happened even with Blues, but not as much. Maybe I'm pressing they keys too long, and I just have to tweak Windows to wait longer before repeating a press. -I'm not a big fan of the new logo, but it's smaller than the old Corsair logo, so you can easily ignore it. -They now have K65s in RGB (which are another store's exclusive), and is a tenkeyless version of this. I do want a more compact keyboard, but I also need the number pad, the only keyboard that allowed me to have it all was the CM Quickfire TK, which combines the arrow keys section and the number pad, using the NumLock as a switch between the two modes. It is a bit complicated, but it was the best solution for what I wanted. I wish Corsair would come up with a similar solution with RGB keyboards in the future. -Been with this keyboard for two months and still love it. Just made a few revisions and a couple additions to my original review. I noticed this is still pretty hard to get, so hope some of you guys get to enjoy it too :)
Does it all, just cheap built
Pros: It is so nice to have something like this on the front of the pc case (my case doesn't have front ports of any kind, just drive bays and power buttons). I don't use every card reader, just SD, and it works just fine.
Cons: The reasons this product isn't outstanding are the following: *It isn't built perfectly the size of a 5.25" bay, so when I used the screws, it still has a tiny space to vibrate in. *The card reader was tricky, first install worked, and then I'm not sure what I did, and it stopped working. I had to uninstall the driver, restart, then install while the reader was unpluged, and pluged it in when it told me, and used complete install to make it work. I'm sure this is why some people have non-working sd readers. *It has LONG cables, so there is a lot of cabling inside my system.
Overall Review: *Manual seems to be a near-literal translation from some other language. *In my system, to remove SD card, you don't need to remove the device (which shows as "H: I: J: K:"). Just make sure it isn't flashing. *In my opinion the manual should instruct to install without the USB cable connected until the installation software tells you to. *I think the manual should also point out with numbers or colors which connector is which on their diagrams. *Someone said they didn't get the same installation CD as in the pictures. The one I received is blue and the version is 2.3. The one in the picture is ver 2.0 *The audio jacks don't have that sastisfying click when you plug your earphones in. *Oops, I should have read or noticed that firewire cable plugs into a header type connector, not a port one, now I'll need to get an adapter or another 1394 card. *I decided to use the V-out and S-out connectors for inputing video, why the heck not? *I use Win Vista -if you don't have it, don't get it.
It works
Pros: It works
Cons: None.
Overall Review: Thing came in mail. Slapped it into mobo. System recognizes all of it. No issues related to it. It works.
So far so good
Pros: This is an authentic Canon product, which includes instructions and a warranty, so you don't have to worry about compatibility or workmanship issues.
Cons: It's unfortunate that Canon doesn't offer a way to charge batteries and connect a DSLR to continuous power, so you can quickly go wireless without having to turn off the camera, yet at least the camcorders I have owned from Canon can do this, and their adapters were included.
Overall Review: Going by the pictures, mine is the exact same one, built in the same place (china) by the same company (Matsumi), but don't be fooled, this is the actual Canon product, I wouldn't want to risk using any third party inexpensive adapters since I've heard a few horror stories. Sadly, I had to buy it elsewhere, but Newegg has the best price at the moment, it's just different stores run out of stock at different times, so if you see it available here, don't hesitate to get it if you really want it. I'm using it to take very long exposures, and long time lapses that would drain my battery, or might even drain two in a battery grip, so having continuous power gives me peace of mind.
One revision to my last review
Pros: Still the same as in my last review.
Cons: Still the same as last time but got one revision:
Overall Review: One thing I mentioned before is that I might have to make my iPad forget the usual wifi connection so it would always default to the Eye-fi card, but it won't work that way either because the Eye-fi card creates a network only when it needs to transfer pictures, otherwise, it stops broadcasting. On my iPad, the shortest way to reconnect to the Eye-fi card once it tries to send pictures, is to pull up the Control Center on the iPad, turn off the wifi, wait a couple seconds and turn it on again. As long as you have your regular wifi connection forgotten, it will reconnect to the Eye-fi card. It must be much better on an iPad or device that has cell network connection because it could stay connected to the Eye-fi card and upload to the Eye-fi Cloud at the same time, although it might still have issues reconnecting to the card after a bit of inactivity.
Perfect for broadcasting
Pros: Relatively quiet. Not bulky like the 260 GTX it replaced. Has all the connections I need. Worked without a hitch on first install as Nvidia cards usually do.
Cons: None for my applications.
Overall Review: I'm streaming live video online (not games though), and so far it hasn't choked once. While processing that video, I've also had dual monitors working at full HD, and still no problems. The card has two DVI outputs that can do analog signal, so I can adapt them to plug in D-sub 15 pin displays, which is what I have. It also has HDMI output, so I could have a third display as long as it has HDMI in. Also, I'm planning to install three Avermedia capture cards, and with my old 260 GTX it would be impossible as it was obstructing one of the PCIe slots. This is working on a Windows 8.1 machine and so far I'm very happy.