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This review is from: BYTECC BRACKET-25525 HDD Accessory
Pros: Easy installation. Simply fasten your SSD(s) to the mounting plate, then slide the plate into the drive bay and fasten it to your case. Spent all of five minutes adding an SSD to my system.
Construction is of quality material, no cheap flimsy tin here. I've installed it in the 2nd drive bay, just below my Lite-On iHAS120 DVD writer, above the Soundblaster I/O drive. This helps keep my SSD at a cool 26 degrees C, whereas my mechanical HDDs, located in the bottom half of my Antec 1200 are ~ 34 degrees C.
Cons: None really.
Other Thoughts: It could have been designed so one could add maybe front USB 3.0 ports or card reader, or perhaps even included a fan to pull air in, but any and all of those would obviously just add to the incredibly low price, which was actually the main factor in my purchase at the time. But it's just an idea.READ FULL REVIEW
This review is from: CORSAIR 64GB Flash Voyager GS USB 3.0 Flash DriveModel CMFVYGS3B-64GB
Pros: There is little to say about the packaging and shipping of the Corsair Voyager GS flash drive, as it’s quite compact and not exactly prone to possible mishandling damage as most other computer components very much are. Suffice to say it arrived rather quickly, within a few days, as nearly everything I have ever ordered from Newegg has been shipped.
I had not realized this was a rather hefty drive, not only in storage capacity, but in actual physical dimensions as well. It also has a bit of weight to it compared to every other flash drive I’ve ever owned or used. Obviously that has quite a lot to do with its Zinc Alloy housing versus many other drives being constructed of mostly plastic. The flip away metal protective covers on some drives pale in comparison to the “armored plating” feel of this drive. I have no worries about this drive breaking any time soon. I haven’t run over it yet, but I almost want to just to see if it will withstand the pressure. None of my other drives could and I won’t even bother putting them through that test!
Speed of the drive is directly related to how it’s connected, and what it is communicating with. I ran quite a few tests to find the best overall combination.
1. Front USB 2.0 port on my Antec 1200 case to a NAS on my Gigabit home network.
2. Front USB 2.0 port on my Antec 1200 case to a USB 3.0 external drive connected to a USB 3.0 port on the NAS on my Gigabit home network.
3. Front USB 2.0 port on my Antec 1200 case to a USB 3.0 external drive connected to a USB 3.0 port on the back of same case (a Seagate P3 to be exact).
4. Front USB 2.0 port on my Antec 1200 case to the Intel 730 SSD on a SATA III connection which is my current boot drive.
5. Rear USB 3.0 port on my Antec 1200 case to the Intel 730 SSD on a SATA III connection which is my current boot drive.
6. Both front USB 2.0 ports, one the Corsair USB 3.0 drive, the other an Adata USB 3.0 drive.
Which transfer was the fastest? Correct, it’s #5. This actually blew me away, until I actually calculated the real speed over what Windows 7 x64 Ultimate was claiming (the calculated speeds were still impressive nonetheless. When transferring an 11GB mov
Cons: The housing has one potential drawback. It’s size. While it will easily fit in the front USB ports on all the PCs I work on or have at home, such is not the case when attempting to utilize some of the rear USB 3.0 ports on some computers, as in some laptop docking stations, especially if all or most of the other USB ports are already in use! This isn’t exactly a huge problem, as it’s often easy to simply remove one or more USB devices occupying those USB ports, troubleshooting actually necessitates that very action. If it was just a little narrower however, this wouldn’t even be an issue. Most people probably won’t have any problem, as I do not when using the drive on my own systems at home. When using it in the field, it may be at one time or another, if only being an annoyance making room for it to fit.
Other Thoughts: Quadruple tests to usbflashspeed.com recorded consistent write speeds of 165 MB/s and read speeds of 275 MB/s, give or take up to a single MB/s on either one.
The USB 3.0 to USB 3.0 via motherboard ports come in second, and the motherboard port to gigabit networked USB 3.0 limited by the network bandwidth, topping out at ~100 MB/s though average was around 95 MB/s, then the USB 2.0 to anything limited by the paltry 480 Mb/s speed of the USB 2.0 port itself.
So, keep that in mind when reading reviews of this drive, (or any USB 3.0 drive for that matter), you will NOT attain manufacturer claimed specs if you’re connected to, and writing to, or from certain drives depending on HOW both drives are connected! In reading some reviews on any and all drives over the years, it seems some people forget that critical factor.
*All drives but the Adata were formatted NTFS, the Adata 3.0 USB flash drive was formatted FAT32.
Pros: Quality design and manufacturing. I've owned other memory sticks with heat spreaders that felt as though they were simply going to break or fall off the DIMM using the necessary pressure inserting them in the motherboard. Not so with this product. Mainly, because the heat spreader design makes it completely unnecessary to apply pressure to anything but the DIMM itself. This would seem to be common sense when designing a product like this, but apparently it isn't always the case.
Initial installation in my MSI x79a-GD45 plus motherboard was problematic. Memtest reported multiple failures beginning with Test 3, and if I hadn't researched MSI's website for both that specific motherboard as well as MSI's forums, I would not have known it wasn't at all the fault of the G.SKILL ram, but that of the motherboard itself. A bios update eliminated this memory problem completely, and I've never had Memtest fail using the aforementioned motherboard or this ram in any of the three boards I currently have it installed in.
While I cannot say this ram is actually faster than other brands (G.SKILL is all I use for DDR3 now), I can safely say I'm completely satisfied with it's performance in the gaming systems I've installed it in. Games such as the entire Battlefield series save Hardline (I don't particularly care for that addition to the BF franchise), Shadow of Mordor, Metro 2033, Metro Last Light, The Witcher series, Crysis series... pretty much any and all AAA titles out there in the RPG, FPS, RTS, and 4X Strategy genres.
I read all the time, as I'm sure many of you do, how this game or that game will not work on someone's system. These claims made by people who swear it's 'not their system', because game X, Y, and Z run, just not game W. Well, if I can play ANY game I've ever installed including these games (pretty much any and every game on Steam or Origin) that people claim are broken, then it MUST be their system. I have over 1,000 games on Steam, over 50 on Origin, a few dozen on GoG, some on Desura, well, you get the picture. Quality products, used correctly and not abused (extreme overclocking can easily cause system instability, which is sometimes difficult to accept for some). This ram lightly overclocked has yet to give me any problems, but for the record, I run it stock speed 90% of the time, and currently it's stock speed, along with my Intel i7-3820 processor.
So basically, in the three gaming systems I have at home right now, my two sons and mine, we have zero issues and all have this ram installed. Of course when I upgrade around Christmas I'll still use G.SKILL, but it will be their DDR4 memory, of which I have little doubt it will be of the same high quality found here.
Cons: I have a Cooler Master Hyper 212 plus installed on all home gaming systems (or variants of... the EVO on one system) and I know on my system the heatsink just barely clears the rather high heat spreader on the ram in the first DIMM slot. Just something to keep in mind, though I doubt it will be an issue for most boards out there, unless those ram slots are even closer than those on my MSI board as mentioned above.
Other Thoughts: Always check the manufacturer's website of your motherboard for updated bios and/or drivers if and when having any issues with your system. Generally, I'd recommend NOT updating firmware UNLESS you're having an issue, and that issue is specifically addressed, and even then only as a last resort. It's far too easy to brick a system (even with the 'dual bios switch'). Personally, I've never fried a board updating the bios, but have seen people who THOUGHT they did, as well as people who actually have. Neither is an exciting, fun experience!READ FULL REVIEW
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