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This review is from: MSI 880GMS-E41 (FX) AM3+ AMD 880G HDMI SATA 6Gb/s Micro ATX AMD Motherboard
Pros: Solid Capacitors, great price, onboard HDMI, sata3, great OEM replacement
Cons: HDMI Jumper, only 2 slots for ram, no USB3 bracket, 3-pin fan always runs at 100% (pretty common thing on AMD boards i've noticed, they adjust fans using PWM not voltage.. seems to me anyway?) either way, nothing that was a deal breaker, it was a great price for a pretty solid looking board... time will tell!
Other Thoughts: I bought this to replace a board on a commonly-failing HP desktop model that came with an Athlon II x4. Everything runs so quick now, much quicker than when the HP was new! The only drawbacks are minor, you can either use HDMI or DVI at a time, but can switch between the two with a jumper on the board. And I did have to replace the fan on the heatsink with a 4-pin (PWM) one because no amount of adjusting the BIOS seemed to make a difference, but the 4-pin worked perfectly.
I have had nothing buy success with MSI products and this is right in line with my previous experiences.
Pros: seriously? the fact that 8gb cost me 30$. that is the only pro i need!- however, in addition, it worked flawlessly right out of the box (in a dell no less!), timings were spot on, and this stuff never seems to get quite hot. Did i mention you can catch it on sale for very cheap? I've never bought DDR3 before, and it's amazing what you can get for so little money.
Cons: I cannot comment on overclocking, because the dell bios really, really, really hates when you mess with anything except boot order. but for OEM use, this stuff is way above par. so... no cons for my use.
Other Thoughts: I work in a computer store and see problems with RAM all the time. I have never had any issue with crucial, but anything with heat spreaders (aka not the cheapest stuff) seems to work particularly well with immediately setting the right timings etc. without any input on my behalf.
I have a 4gb set of 800mhz DDR2 tracers in an old c2q 780i build, and i bought that stuff 3-4 years ago, it has run solid at 850mhz+, 4-4-4-12 1t, on stock 2.2v, and it never fails me. I know that's not much of an OC, but the timings are tight and it's been going for 3 YEARS like that. plus it's the 1-sided kind, which was supposed to be worse, and still... rock solid stuff.
btw if you could see the computer this was going in, you'd be surprised anything works in it- qx9650, 12gb ddr3, dell x48 BTX (that's right) mobo out of an xps 430 which has een stuffed in a gateway Pentium D BTX box from like 2006 with dremel mods for fitment, XPS BTX heatsink, 2x used sata 160gb drives in RAID0, and a killer 512mb GeForce 7900gs... this machine was built on a budget from used parts i had laying around (excpet ddr3, hence the review), and halfway as a homage to the obviously superior design of BTX, and buddy it's stupid fast. too bad they axed BTX, it had serious potential in home PC usage. /ramble
This review is from: Polk Audio PSW Series PSW10 Black 10-inch Powered Subwoofer Single
Pros: Inexpensive when on sale, has surprising potential, has the ability to turn itself off after a few minutes when no input signal detected, which is very convenient.
Cons: I have monitor 60s at my L/R, CS2 as center, monitor 40s as surrounds, and this sub didn't really add much to them at decent volume- if the speakers themselves couldn't handle the low frequencies, the sub (port) just distorted it anyway. Fortunately, if you're willing to void the warranty, there is an amazing workaround that changes what this sub is capable of. -2 eggs for diagnostic and repair lol
Other Thoughts: I have installed and tuned a lot of car audio systems (including building custom sub enclosures) for the past few years, so I thought I'd give home audio a shot. The monitor range of speakers are surprisingly easy to get pretty good sound from (powered by an onkyo tx-sr803 from the hock shop), despite being the lowest-end range Polk offers. But this sub is a different story. The driver itself is actually not bad, but what were the Polk engineers thinking with this box design? any time the sub really had a chance to shine, it instead made a sound reminiscent of severe flatulence. That basically means the driver is moving more air than the port can handle. In car subs, this is remedied 3 ways aside from lowering the volume- make the port bigger and subsequently longer, baffle the port, or add polyfil until it stops being a problem. At first i stuffed a sock into the port, but at the first big BOOM it shot the sock back out of the port and literally 5ft across the floor. kinda funny, but not very effective. So I stuffed a pillow in the port, that worked ok but it really deadened the sound. Unwilling to redesign the port and probably the enclosure itself, I opened 'er up for surgery. The one foam roll thing wrapped around the internal wiring (the only filler in the box) got put behind the internal side of the port (under the amp), then stuffed 3/4 of a body pillow's worth of pillow stuffing in that bad boy.
...and now the neighbors downstairs hate me.
This sub is now able to handle loud, bass-heavy explosions, flybys, etc. without chuffing and making that horrible (and embarrassing) distortion noise. So if yours is doing this and you think it should be able to handle louder low-frequency sounds, just get a pillow and fill 'er up.