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PowerA Xbox One Controller - Wired - Spectra - Pro Series
  • Verified Owner
  • Owned For: 1 week to 1 month

5 out of 5 eggs Better Than Xbox 360 Controllers 12/10/2014

This review is from: PowerA Xbox One Controller - Wired - Spectra - Pro Series

Pros: This controller is great! Feels way better than my old Xbox 360 controllers. The layout is almost the exact same as an official Microsoft Xbox One controller. However the shape is different, and in my opinion, better. More comfortable than the official controller. It's wired meaning no recharge or random disconnects during game play. Triggers and shoulder buttons are nice, tight, and responsive. Buttons have more of a mechanical feel to them than rubber membrane mushiness. Although I am pretty sure they are rubber membrane since this controller is $10 less than the official one. Nice long cord is a plus, with breakaway for those little mistakes that we all make. Works great on my PC which is what I bought it for. Like the Afterglow series of controllers for Xbox 360 and PS3 the led lightshow is awesome, yet totally unneeded. It's just cool looking that's all.

Cons: My only con really has to do with Windows, and not this controller. I know these aren't made to be used with PC, however, it is possible and not that hard to get going. Now That I have found all the things I needed to get it going in the first place. (See other thoughts)
Also, just nitpicking here but, I wish it had a braided cable. Most companies won't spring for braided, but I just love it so much. Oh well....

Other Thoughts: As I have said, I bought this for PC. After playing an Xbox One at a friends house, making fun of how something with graphics and features that still are no match for a PC, and still costs around the $400 mark (if you want all the bells and whistles), I really liked the controllers. I have a ton, and I mean A TON, of Xbox 360 controllers for several PCs in my house. I wanted one of those now (I'm very childish like that). I didn't want to spend all of the extra money for the "Windows Cable" after already spending money on the official controller. So I figured I'd see what 3rd party companies have been up to. Seeing that this was wired, which I prefer anyway over wireless, I went with this. It's not that different from the Microsoft wireless one. A bit cheaper in the manufacturing process, but not that bad. Ten dollars cheaper than the other one too. My only gripe was that Windows did not recognize it right off the bat. I mean I know Xbox 360 controllers weren't plug and play either. You needed a simple driver to make them work. After a little bit of digging I found out some info that might help others when trying to install this, or any other Xbox One controller on their PC. Whether it be official or third party, it all works the same.
First and foremost...This is how to get it to work with Windows 7 (since Windows 8 - 8.1 is so horrible). Find and download the Major Nelson driver (ask google where to find it). Don't install it yet. Next update Windows to the newest Service Pack (July 2014). Any other updates, that don't have to do with security should be applied as well. This is key, because without doing this, all the controller will do is flash and won't connect. Believe me, I spent almost an hour messing with this until I figured out, "Oh duh!!! Windows update is turned off!". After the update reboot, install the driver, plug and play! The light on the controller will flash a few times, connect, then vibrate to let you know it's connected. That's it you're off. Very pleased with this purchase, plan on getting another one after Christmas. Oh and just a warning, I did my research before I bought this. I don't know if it is true or not, but I read a review on another website where one guy said that the leds being left on for too long caused the internals to melt. Making the triggers stick and shoulder buttons not work unless really pressed hard. Seems like boloney to me, but just be weary. I've found myself not turning them on unless the room is dark, and turning them off when I'm not using it. Just food for thought.

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Logitech Z623 200 w 2.1 Speaker System, THX-Certified
  • Verified Owner
  • Owned For: 1 month to 1 year

4 out of 5 eggs So close Logitech... 11/16/2014

This review is from: Logitech Z623 200 w 2.1 Speaker System, THX-Certified

Pros: This system packs a lot of power with not that bad of a price tag. You won't find a better deal in this price range. 200 watts RMS (continuous) power. That's 35 watts per satellite and 130 watts for the subwoofer. Overall build quality is what you would expect from Logitech. Satellites feel heavy and well built. The subwoofer and it's enclosure are built like a tank, and feels about as heavy. Rubberized feet on all 3 of the components ensure that where you put them, they will stay. Volume and subwoofer control knobs are located on the right speaker for easy fine tuning. Thick long wires make it so this speaker system can suit a variety of applications. Great frequency response (20Hz - 20 KHz). Headphone and mic input controls are located on the right speaker as well for easy hookup. Speakers are also protected from damage with metal grills.
Sound quality is good despite a few drawbacks (see cons). Powerful bass from the subwoofer. The mids and highs seem nice and don't distort even at high volume. The subwoofer also has low-to-no distortion, as long as the user configures the knobs and audio device being used correctly. Embossed Logitech logo on the left speaker is a beautiful added touch. Along with the THX logos on the tweeters. Perfect for applications such as home theater, PC or console gaming, or just hooking up any music device. There are is also an AUX input (RCA R-L) to hook up anything that needs RCA patch cables or if you don't have a 3.5mm to RCA adapter. Comes with a 3.5mm to 3.5mm right angle cable which in a nice touch. All in all, a great all around system for the price.

Cons: This is a great speaker system with a few issues that Logitech really needs to address. First and foremost, the wattage on all of the speakers should be pulled more tightly together. The subwoofer is 130 watts and each satellite is only 35 watts. Meaning that when you start to crank this thing up all of the highs get drowned out by the lows (and I mean BOOMING bass). You can dial back the sub, but when you get about to the half way mark it just doesn't sound as good as it could. Even with EQ tuning and hours tinkering with gain on inputs it just doesn't equal out like it could, and should. Leaving me to say that this system is better suited for watching movies on your home theater than it is to listening to music. I know I'll catch flak for a lot of what I'm saying, but believe me. Atfer working in car audio for 7 years, and being a DJ for 15 years I've developed a little bit of an audiophile's ear. I can hear when sounds are having a conflict, and in this case they kind of are. Maybe they should have dropped the woofer to an even 100 watts, and then split the other 100 watts between the two satellites it might compensate for the big boom of the 7 inch woofer and even out the level of the frequencies.
Also they could have made the grills easier to remove. They probably aren't supposed to be removed, but the sub just seems to sound better with the giant grill off. There are methods to remove them that I have figured out (see other thoughts).
This is just nitpicking here, but I also don't really like the bass port on the subwoofer on the side. Ported subwoofers sound better when the port is in the front, firing directly at the listeniner, or on the back where it can be fired at a wall or corner of the room and refracted back all around the room. That's just my personal preference though. Don't have to agree with me, some may like it on the side. I just don't see the point.

Other Thoughts: All of the things I have said in this review I already knew before I made this purchase. I always research everything before I buy it, and knew about most of the drawback before I bought them. Just not the how bad the uneven distribution of the wattage would effect overall sound quality. I bought these as a replacement for some blown Numark studio monitors. I wanted to add a subwoofer since the monitors I had been using only went as low as 45 Hz. Being an electronic music DJ I really need to hear and feel the bass in my music. This definitely does that. I mean this subwoofer, in my small studio, will almost shake the paint off the walls. Doesn't make the neighbors happy either. That being said I just wish they would have done something about evening out the mids and highs. When connected to my Numark N4 controller, I find myself always having to turn up the mid and high knobs on the EQ of each channel during mixes. That is to be expected, and I wasn't really expecting that much out of this system. That would be "asking for the moon". Afterall the powered monitors that these replaced were almost 3 times the price.
I have, and still do connect these to my pc. Which is also my home theater. My gaming rig is actually part of my living room. These sound great when playing games and watching TV or movies. You really hear, and feel, alot of things that you never did before with the dinky little stock TV speakers. Great product, very happy with purchase. Just iron these little details out Logitech and next time I'll give ya 5 eggs.

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AMD FX-6300 Vishera 6-Core 3.5GHz (4.1GHz Turbo) Socket AM3+ 95W Desktop Processor FD6300WMHKBOX
  • Verified Owner
  • Owned For: 1 month to 1 year

Pros: Excellent little CPU from AMD. Runs stable at stock speeds - 3.5 GHz base speed - 4.2 GHz under full load - when thermal throttling is enabled. Also very overclockable without generating a high level of heat. This is due to it's low 95 watt power consumption. With some tweaking it easily overtakes it bigger brother (FX 6350), when the bigger brother is running at stok speeds of course. I'm sure the 6350 will overclock just as well, maybe even better. Although, as others have stated, why spend the extra money when all that will do is cause more heat build up and empty your wallet in the process.
I was able to get this particular CPU up to 4.5 GHz with some tweaking of the FSB, multiplier, and a slight voltage increase. Runs cool as a cucumber with a CLLC on it. Tears through every next-gen game that has came out recently as of this review date. Recognized instantly on first boot, even with a 990XA chipset MB. Unsure how it reacts to 990FX chipsets as I have no intention of upgrading my MB until the next best thing arrives. Very happy, although there are some drawbacks and concerns (see cons and other thoughts).

Cons: First off, don't let this review persuade you not to buy this processor. Your results may differ greatly from my own.
On that note...Temperature monitoring FX processors is an ongoing concern to almost all who own them. Don't believe me? Google it...you won't believe how many discussion boards there are out there about this problem. Put lightly, you may get false temperature readings with any software you might use to monitor such things. One person stated that these CPUs don't register accurate temps until the CPU is under load, and the temp goes above 25-30c. Meaning you can get false idle temps as low as 10c, which is just impossible. Your CPU can not be running at a termperature lower than the environment it is in. So unless you're pumping liquid nitrogen into your case, this is just a totally false reading. Also others, as well as AMDs website, state that the FX series of processors actually have onboard (meaning built into the CPU itself) temperature sensors. These can clash with your motherboard's socket temp sensor and register false readings. A lot of software out there such as - AIDA64, CPUID HWMonitor, Speedfan, MB Monitor, and others - can give you different types of readings. Core temps for each core, the main core temp, and the socket temp. There is a formula that some use to determine the actual temp, but I don't always feel like doing a math equation every time I want to OC and check temps (more on how I check temps in other thoughts).
Lastly, I know WEI is not the best way to benchmark anything, but upon installing this CPU and replacing my old CPU (Phenom II x4 960t BE), my CPU scores lower than the old CPU. Even with a 4.2-4.5 GHz overclock. Still gets high benchmarks in good software meant for that purpose, but just worried me at first after this purchase. Just food for thought.

Other Thoughts: I actually purchased this CPU because after having my old Phemom II x4 960t Black Edition for almost 4 years, I needed to get rid of the only bottle neck in this build. Granted I had the Phenom II overclocked to 3.7 GHz with 2 hidden cores unlocked making it an x6. It ran great for the entire time I had it. I just wanted to finally break that 4 GHz mark. On a limited budget for upgrades I eventually went with this. I figured alot of the reviews said it was just as good as the 6350, just required less power to run. As did my Phenom II. Got it in no time flat thanks to Newegg, installed it, and was off without a hitch. After the breaking in period, which I believe you should do, you don't have to. I just feel that slowly overlocking the processor over time of use helps stress it into a more stable OC. I was able to get to 4.7 GHz with a voltage I wasn't comfortable with. Being that I have had termperature monitoring issues, I backed it down to 4.5 GHz and it is now running stable and I am happy at that clock speed. I'm using a Corsair H80i AIO liquid cooler to cool it, and it works just fine. Maybe not the Corsair Link software, but that's a whole other can of worms. Find myself banging my head against the wall with every new software/firmware update from Corsair.
Most people know not to expect these types of results with every processor, as every CPU is different and may go further or not as far when overclocking. I find it best to adjust the multiplier as little as possible. Just turning down the memory clock, tweaking the FSB, and then dialing in the right voltage has worked for me. On my old CPU all that you had to do was change the multiplier, it was kind of moron-proof for a stable OC. This was far more difficult. Others results may vary though. I've seen people with these running at 4.8-4.9 GHz with custom loop liquid cooling. As far as temp monitoring goes for me, since I don't want to do the math equation, I know from previous CPUs that my liquid temp is normally only about 2-5c off of my current CPU temp. So if my radiator isn't blowing out hot air and my Link software says my liquid temp is at 38c, my CPU is probably not 58c like the software says, more like 42-45c. To conclude I am using a Gigabyte GA-990XA-UD3 MB, 16 GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1866, and I won't go into the other hardware as my fingers are getting tired.

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Anonymous's Profile

Display Name: Anonymous

Date Joined: 12/10/04

  • Reviews: 5
  • Helpfulness: 4
  • First Review: 03/20/14
  • Last Review: 12/10/14
  • Most Favorable Review: 5 out of 5 eggs
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