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This review is from: Rosewill RCDC-14010 - 6-Foot White DisplayPort to HDMI 28AWG Cable - Male to Male
Pros: good solid connection (click) on DP end. thick cable with apparently good shielding.
Cons: well...it flickers in and out whenever I move between monitors or am active in another monitor. running a 4-monitor extended desktop array (one screen normally disabled to save engergy so effectively 3-screen). so it's pretty much garbage as far as I'm concerned.
the image also flickers/shakes/vibrates very quickly, so quickly that I didn't even notice it over the blackouts until I stopped trying to use the computer and the blackouts stablized -- only to return as soon as I became active in any window again.
Other Thoughts: I've verified that the HDMI ports on the monitors work. the blackouts seem to suggest a brief loss of signal or permissions (although there's nothing encrypted that I'm aware of).
OS: Windows 8.1
GFX: Sapphire Nitro AMD R9 390 (3x DP, 1 HDMI, 1 DVI)
Monitors: 2x Viotek NA32C (VGA, HDMI, DVI); 2x Samsung S27D590C (DP, HDMI, VGA)
Pros: * price for size. It's selling for under $300. That's less than I paid for Samsung 27" curved monitors with the same native resolution.
* easy access menu buttons at the bottom of the screen.
* comes with VESA mounting holes (that's not clear in the item description!)
* sturdy base. angle adjustable but doesn't rotate left/right. sturdy base also means somewhat heavy base.
Cons: * not as crisp or bright an image as the 27" Samsungs @ 1920x1080.
* bezel is a little thicker than 27" Samsungs along sides and top.
* speakers are weak, and you either have to sacrifice game/text/movie mode toggle or volume up/down toggle. you cannot have both at the same time. so I chose to keep the mode toggle, which means I have to go into the options menu (OSD) to mess with the volume (hw/speaker adjustment; this has nothing to do with Windows volume mixer).
* text can be very finicky, especially if you're not in the right "mode." basic white on black is fine. (to be fair, I'm sitting a little to close to the screen given the size and resolution: about 1.5').
* heavier than I would like and thicker too -- there's a band just south of middle that juts out from the back. the various plugs, I/O connectors are housed there.
* no display port connection
Other Thoughts: * I still haven't figured out what the response time is on this thing. It's not in the literature or on any specifications sheet that I've been able to find.
* 720p and 1080p video looks great (Plex)
* the I/O and power cord plug into the monitor from the bottom. the various connectors angle straight down. so it's sort of a trade off: no plugs stick straight out the back, but the back itself bulges a little bit. in any case, there's no need for any special perpendicular connectors on the end of your HDMI cable. (DVI and VGA are the only other options)
* there's a mini RCA audio connection, but I haven't tested it. I've only used HDMI for audio and video.
The monitor is what it is. I wold only recommend it for someone who wants to compute from 3 or so feet away. Any closer, and the resolution starts to noticeably affect things like color depth (crisp, robust images) and gets finicky with text (not always!).
Gaming-wise, I only tested it in a quick PVP arena in SWTOR. I didn't notice any problems. It's not a hardcore gaming monitor (60hz), but whatever the response time is, I didn't notice any issues with video lag.
White bleed on the edges wasn't noticeable when I tested a movie that was only 720p but looked great from less than 2 feet way. That's the monitor's best function. It's fine for casual gaming and office work (given some distance -- let's say 2.5 to 3 feet). But it's great for movies. The only problem is...if you are primarily concerned with watching movies, you would probably step up to a dedicated cinema display and maybe look for 4k and 3D to complement the curved feature.
At the end of the day, the price is super low, so you can look past it shortcomings. If you expect more for the price, I'd say you're kidding yourself. So that's why I give it a solid 4/5. If it could bump up the resolution a bit, it would solve most of my gripes and be a hard 5/5.
edit: bought a second one. DVI connector isn't so good. The screw on one side doesn't thread. I've inspected the cable/screw. The problem is definitely the thread housing on the monitor. Not a big deal. Not taking an egg off or anything. But worth noting. My opinion of the monitor hasn't changed. It's not the greatest for anything, and you have to adjust the settings specifically for the task you're doing (gaming, surfing, word processing), but the price is right and the size is great...especially if your vision is poor.
Pros: -- 2 sata ports at any given time (you have the option to activate any 2 of 4: 2 external, 2 internal). this is clearly explained in the item description.
Cons: -- as others have mentioned, the documentation is an absolute joke. google isn't of any use either. see other thoughts below.
Other Thoughts: I'm running Windows Server 2012 r2. The sata3 card is for the a 4-bay Sans Digital Mobilestor MS4UM+(B). I needed the port multiplier as the esata on my board doesn't have one. I filled the enclosure with 4x 4TB HDDs (Seagate NAS HDD ST4000VN000). The server software allows me to treat it as one 16TB logical drive, which is what I did. Transferring an 11g A/V file, I had very consistent 140-145 MB/s transfer speeds.
Regarding the lack of documentation: study the board itself. Everything is labeled on the PCI card's board: JP1-8, com1-4, JP9-10.
if you want to activate both external ports, set JPs1-8 to positions 2+3 (OEM settings for my card had the jumpers set to positions 1+3, which would activate both internal sata ports). There is a table on the "documentation" sheet that explains this, but it's really stupid. Why not map the card like you would a motherboard in the documentation?
Anyway, I hope that helps if you pick up the card and get confused by the poor documentation.
took one star off for the documentation hassle. but it does work. just...don't bother with the usual google route. and don't waste your time emailing the company. just look at the board to figure out which ports are which and shift the jumpers accordingly (see above).