Question 1

Is there an integral filter in the front panel (by the intake fans) or is it simply slotted intakes?

Accepted Answer

This chassis has slotted intakes only without any filters.

Question 2

I know it says it can support a full size expansioj card, but will there be any problems regarding clearance for 6 or 8-pin connectors on an nvidia gtx560? Ive heard of some people on other 3U cases not being able to close the top panel eith the power connected

Accepted Answer

I think so, I have an AMD Nano and the power connector is in the rear of the card so is not a problem for me. I'd recommend taking the case height, subtracting half an inch (for the motherboard risers) and then looking at the height of your card in your motherboard slot and finally comparing that to the advertised dimension. Going to istarusa's web site helped me before I bought to get more details on all my stuff I've bought from them.

Question 3

Will Server motherboard such as SuperMicro's H8DGU-F fit this case?

Thanks

Accepted Answer

I am not sure a server motherboard will fit, as it is not a very deep case. I have a Micro-ATX board in it and suspect it will fit an ATX board. I would get something bigger if you want to use a server board.

Question 4

Can I get the specs on the fan sizes that will work on this case.  I want to order about 20 of them and need fans?

Accepted Answer

The front face accepts a 120mm fan and what looks like an 80mm at the same time.

The fans in the back look like 60mm x 2.

I only used the 120mm fan spot so I can only vouch 100% for that one, but I think I am correct on the others.

Question 5

I am looking to build a Home Recording Studio PC and was curious will there be any issues regarding heat with two SSD drives and one Raptor standard drive?  Do I also need mounting trays?

Accepted Answer

Heat should not be a problem if you use at least one case fan.  The drives sit right behind the case fan, so the raptor should be fine with the airflow, and there is plenty of space for drives.  You might even get away without a case fan due to the amount of space for drives.

I prefer to direct air over drives with a fan to be safe for cooling.  The Fan doesn't not need to be fast or loud.

There are only 3.5 inch spots for drives so you will need adapter trays/mounts.

Question 6

What are the dimensions of the iStarUSA D-313SE-MATX chassis?

Accepted Answer

The dimensions of the iStarUSA D-313SE-MATX chassis are 5.25" x 19.00" x 16.86".

Question 7

What type of motherboard is compatible with the iStarUSA D-313SE-MATX chassis?

Accepted Answer

The iStarUSA D-313SE-MATX chassis is compatible with microATX and mini-ITX motherboards, specifically measuring 9.6" x 9.6".

Question 8

Would an AIO liquid cooler fit in this case?

Accepted Answer

No

Question 9

It looks like the only mounting holes to attach this case to a server rack are on the front.  But it seems like it would be too heavy once fully loaded with PSU, motherboard and drives.  Does it have rear mounting holes as well that can anchor to the rear uprights of a server rack, or is it literally intended to be supported only by the front?

Accepted Answer

Only Front mounts. It is not long enough to have rear mounting brackets, nor are there rails. I have installed a few dozen of these in racks without issue and the 6 screws on the front are enough.

Question 10

I've had some trouble with the power button sticking all the way in. It seems that it should be a momentary switch (as the reset button is, below it), but if you press it in at all it will stick, and only a little lateral flick will get it out. CPU will not start up while button is stuck. I've disassembled the switch PCB from the case and it seems that the spring inside the switch is catching when it should be pushing the button back out. Can this little PCB be replaced?

Accepted Answer

You're correct, ever since the ATX power Supply was introduced, they've been momentary contact switch's, sending a pin on the CPU either high (1) or low (0). The AT PSU's used on/off toggle switches that switched 110v AC, (in the US), more secure but a higher shock hazard.

I'm not sure if the PCB can be had. But you can check with the manufacturer, good luck! Many sellers of products made in China don't really manufacture them, they just find products in a catalog and order them with their name attached, so few mess around with parts, (not as much profit).

If you're handy with a soldering station you can look at Mouser and/or Digi-key to possibly find an exact duplicate switch and replace it on the PCB. There should be a part #/manufacturer name on it somewhere.  Anything not exact, of course, will require case modification.

I'm wondering what you mean by "...catching..." I would ask, "on what?"

As to initially finding that problem, my first thought would be to check if I could duplicate the "catching" with the PCB out of the case, because if it doesn't, that would indicate that it's binding on the hole in the case so just filing the hole bigger in the area that's binding would fix the problem. I'd just be real careful to ensure any metal filings didn't end up in the electronics.

I'm currently using two of them as servers so they're on pretty much 24/7; not much power switch usage. But so far they're holding up without 'catching'.

I wish I could have supplied more help.

Again, Good Luck!

Questions & Answers