Pros: I ended up with two 2 GB sticks, each labeled "KVR800D2N6K2/4G", "KIT OF 2, 1.8 V". The chips and boards were clean, but there were witness marks on the card-edge connector, where I believe they were previously installed in a socket. They are only about 3/4" (19 mm) tall. It appears to be genuine Kingston RAM. The hologram stickers look OK. All the text matches on the two hologram stickers. On the part number stickers, three out of the four lines match; the third line is different and might be a serial number (it is of the form xxLxx-x9xHxx-xWxxB). Each stick has sixteen Hynix HY5PS1G831C DRAM chips on it, plus the SPD EEPROM. The Hynix chips are additionally marked "KOR", "FP-S6 C 103V", and a varying line of the form "MWHABXEnxxn". I believe that "103V" probably means the third week of 2011 - more below. I installed these sticks with no other RAM. The system ran through one full set of Memtest86+ (about 30 minutes) and didn't show any errors. Memtest86+ detected the timing as 6-6-6-18. decode-dimms (Linux) also agrees with the 6-6-6-18 timing. It also says the RAM is "SSTL 1.8V", and supports CAS 6, 5, and 4. (I haven't tried it at anything besides CAS 6, though.) It also identifies Kingston as the manufacturer, manufacturing location 0x06, manufacturing date 2011-W10, and a 32-bit serial number for each stick. The serial numbers are relatively close to each other - about 5,000 numbers apart. Running it in the system, it seems to work OK. I can have a couple of separate instances of Firefox running and it doesn't swap, which is not the case when I had only 2 GB of RAM installed. As I write this, the system has been up for about 7 hours, running various applications, with no apparent problems.

Cons: Given the fact that these didn't come in original Kingston packaging, the probable January 2011 date on the RAM chips, the March 2011 date in the onboard EEPROM, and the marks on the edge connectors, I am pretty sure these are used. (I bought this RAM in October 2017). That's not the end of the world, but I wish it was disclosed somewhere on the ad. On the other hand, maybe these were enough clues that the modules were used: 1) This RAM was one andrew jackson, while the equivalent parts from mooshy kin, g'z kill, or coarse air start at twice that on Newegg. 2) Kingston sells these modules new on their site, but only on a build-to-order basis, and two modules would be about three times what this pair was. 3) DDR2 RAM is not exactly the latest technology sensation. The packaging was... economical. It shipped in a padded kraft mailing bag, 5" x 7.5". Inside that was a pink static-shield plastic bag, heat seamed down the middle to make a compartment for each stick, and then across the end to close it. It didn't have the plastic clamshell trays that new RAM typically comes in. On the other hand, free USPS shipping.

Overall Review: My Gigabyte motherboard has an AMD processor and AMD 740G chipset; the memory seems to work just fine with it. (In this era, some RAM was picky as to whether you had an Intel or AMD chipset.) My motherboard has only 2 RAM slots - it had 2x 1 GB coarse air sticks before this upgrade. I wanted it to run a little better than it did, but I didn't want it bad enough to go for a newer motherboard, CPU, etc. For one andrew jackson, this RAM woke it up enough to buy me another year or two of use, so I think it's a good deal. The parts shipped from Boca Raton, Florida, via USPS first-class mail.

Pros: When it's working, it's great! I run Debian 4.0r3 "Etch" (2.6.18 kernel, 64 bit) on it and it's nice; around 6430 BogoMips per core. No trouble booting the install CD or using the stock kernel; building a custom kernel also went well. You do need updated lm-sensors to talk to the ADT7475 fan/thermal chip. The Q-connector is handy for the small case plugs (pwr reset etc). Mine arrived with a few pins bent; they should plug them into a block of foam before shipping. You get ones for USB and 1394 as well; not as useful if you have 1-piece USB plugs, but can be handy: I had a 1x5 plug from the card reader and a 2x5 plug from the case USB ports; plugging in the 1x5 to the shrouded mobo connector would have wasted 1 USB port. Used the USB Q-connector to plug in the 1x5 and half of the 2x5 plug. My build: Athlon 64 X2 Windsor 6400+, 2x 1GB DDR2-800 Kingston ValueRAM, 2x Seagate Barracuda ES 500 GB 7200 RPM SATA 2, Pioneer 20x DVD+/-R, Mitsumi card reader/floppy, Antec TP3 650 W.

Cons: I bought despite the bad reviews here and elsewhere. 2 kinds of bad reviews: "NG with DDR2-800 RAM" from ~2007 (apparently fixed by newer BIOS) and "DOA/died gradually" (ongoing). I wasn't worried about 1 and I attributed 2 to bad luck and/or poor ESD practices. I whipped out my mat and wrist strap and built the system and all seemed to be well at first; long-running Seti@Home processes sometimes crashed but I attributed that (wrongly) to 32/64 bit issues. Over a few weeks, though, every-day apps like Firefox and even tin started crashing for no reason; then it started not wanting to boot. memtest86 reported various memory errors; on reboot it would report errors in _different places_! I tried using some RAM that was performing well in another machine - no change. I stepped the memory down to DDR2-667 in the BIOS and that worked for a couple of weeks before the crashes proliferated again; now at 533 and it's working well enough to get online and buy a non-Asus replacement.

Overall Review: From Newegg's point of view, this is a perfect product; it outlasts the 30-day return period and becomes Asus' problem, not theirs. They will probably also sell some extended warranties and competing motherboards out of the deal. Asus tech support is kind of slow; they claim two-business-day response, but don't believe it. According to other people who have had to RMA this same board, expect at least a few weeks to turn it around. A reasonable explanation might be that Asus is growing and having QC issues, or that they haven't nailed down the lead-free/RoHS solder process yet. A conspiracy theory is that the money Microsoft paid to Asus for the Xbox parts was contaminated with bogons, which are now loose in the Asus plant and causing mayhem.

Pros: It runs on Windows 7, 64-bit. I keep Windows 7 in a VM just to run this software. I bought it as a digital download in late February, 2023, which gives you about a 49 megabyte .exe from Newegg. I copied that .exe into the VM, ran it, and it successfully installed the software. Once I ran the software, it successfully downloaded an update for the federal side, and also successfully downloaded the state program for my state. I pulled up a couple of the help topics and they were able to download the correct articles from H&R Block. (The help has been online-only for at least the past couple of years.) I have not yet tried importing last year's return. I don't e-file, so I don't know if that functionality works or not. As I recall, when H&R Block killed XP support for the 2017 version of this software, the installer would detect the OS version and refuse to go further. Since the 2022 installer works and I can at least start the program, I'm fairly confident it will work correctly.

Overall Review: So far, it seems to work about like it has for the past several years.

Pros: Now that H&R Block killed the application.xml discount, Newegg's price of one andrew jackson (on special in mid-January 2019) is hard to beat.

Cons: I used the Super Eggsaver shipping. I put in the order on Friday at 2:30 PM, and it showed up the next Saturday in the mail - 8 days later. It shipped from just outside Cincinnati, OH, and went to a big city about 600 miles away. It shipped via DHL for the long haul, who then handed off to USPS for local delivery.

Pros: Original, 23 March 2008: Sleeved wiring bundles. Internal fan tach lead is brought out to a connector for your motherboard. Has every kind of power connector there is (so far this week). Appears to have fairly robust construction, and the safety agency approvals are likely genuine, unlike your typical "1000 W for $20!!1!" power supply. Has a hard power switch on the back, which I like; even after all these years, ATX soft power switches and I still don't get along. Voltages are in spec, per BIOS and multimeter measurements. Update, 11 January 2019: It quit after about 11 years of nearly constant service. It went quietly when it died, without taking out any other components in the PC, and with no pyrotechnics or weird smells. It grew from powering 2 GB of memory, two 3.5" hard drives, and integrated video, to 4 GB of memory, four 3.5" hard drives, and a PCI Express 16 video card, without complaint. The PC would use about 100 to 120 W at the wall, depending on what exactly was running. It ran for a few days more than 11 years, with 24/7 service for about 51 weeks a year; it got shut down for occasional long trips out of town. Every year or so I would clean out the power supply with a can of air.

Cons: Original, 23 March 2008: Has every kind of power connector there is (so far this week), so non-gamers will have to figure out a place to stow half of them. Did not ship with delicious cake.

Overall Review: Original, 23 March 2008: What we really need from the PC industry is about twelve more kinds of power connectors. I think the Jones plug is due for a revival; RCA power connectors might also be nice. Octal tube base connectors, anyone? Update, 11 January 2019: I had a power outage yesterday and the PC ran from the UPS like normal. When the power didn't come back after 5 minutes or so, I shut the PC down manually. About half an hour later, once the power was back and stable, I tried to turn the PC back on... no dice. I disconnected everything but the motherboard and still no joy. Swapping in another supply proved that this one was dead. I never did end up using the 6-pin or 8-pin 12 volt connectors. :)

Pros: This switch replaced a 10/100 switch that was old when I got it in the mid-2000s. That switch had a built-in fan and pulled about 12 watts at the wall, per my Kill-a-watt meter. This Trendnet switch pulls *one watt* at the wall, with four ports active. It's tiny! The old switch was big enough that I could let the Ethernet cables dangle off the front of it and the switch didn't go anywhere. With this switch, I had to re-arrange the cables a bit so they wouldn't pull the switch off of the shelf. It has a metal casing all around. The front has a plastic overlay with the logo, model number, and LED labels. All nine indicator LEDs (one power, eight port status) are green and on the front. The power light is on steady when power is on. The port status light is off for no connection, on solid for a connection of any speed (10, 100, or 1000 megabit), and blinks as data flows on that port. There are no lights in the corners of each Ethernet jack. The UL listing on the power supply appears to be genuine.

Cons: Ethernet jacks are plastic. Not a big deal on a switch that goes for one Andrew Jackson, though. Doesn't have one of those nifty "percent utilization" LED bar graphs - but again, one Andrew Jackson. Doesn't have a Bayonet Neill–Concelman connector. (Ask your parents.)

Overall Review: The power supply is rated 5 V, 1 A, so if you were hacking up a mobile application for it, you might be able to power it from 2 USB ports, or four NiMH batteries in series (4.8 V). I haven't tried this, though.