Joined on 12/11/05
Owned it 1-2 weeks now, still works great
Pros: Much better than the other converter I ordered previously; I guess they've improved it since the first one they made. Works great.
Cons: Gets hot.
Overall Review: Able to use my blu-ray player now for my CRT tv and get 5.1 surround sound via coaxial cable (sound to the receiver from the blu-ray player).
Not very reliable
Pros: It lights up, and types on a fresh boot.
Cons: Mainly, the CON is, after you hibernate the computer or put it to sleep, the keyboard is useless when it gets back to Windows. Hibernate is what I like to do with my desktop, so that I can just basically shut it down from day to day, then the next day I just hit the space bar or any key and it will boot right back up very quickly, and I log right back in, and all my work and applications are still open and stuff right where I left off.) (we never really lose power, or internet..our power grid / internet is pretty reliable, all run underground). But ANYWAYS... Another con, after like 10 minutes, the light effect goes away. Not sure if it ever comes back, but I don't remember if I ever got an actual driver for it..Chinese piece of junk if you ask me. One more thing, there's no multimedia keys. Even though there's a picture of them. No user's manual, nothing. Not even a driver to make it work better.
Overall Review: You get what you pay for? If you always "shut down" your computer, then do fresh boots every day, then "I Guess" this keyboard would work for you? But, for me, it was like a kick in the balls. Well, if the keyboard is locked up when you go to actually "type", you 'could' take it out of USB port and put it back in, or put it in another USB port, and that would fix it..it just shows it's a pain...heh..
Board works fine for me
Pros: Hasn't failed, pretty fast for what I needed it for
Cons: None so far?
Overall Review: My dad was using some piece of junk old HP Presario with like 700 mb of RAM, and opening web browser to load his fox news website, even with ad blockers, was just hell on the computer. Would take 5-10 minutes of stress on the computer just to get the browser loaded, even AFTER a reformat, so I HAD to replace that piece of junk with a custom build. Used this and some other parts, like a 2.8 ghz or 3 ghz processor, everything stock speed, 16 gb of ram, everything runs great on that thing now.
Love the Bluetooth, didn't know there was a Bluetooth button on the front until yesterday. (read the manual)
Pros: Love the bluetooth function because I can use it to play my iphone's music. It suited all the needs of what I needed it for, which was the composite connections (my dad STILL wants to use our old CRT tv), and our old receiver was starting to glitch.
Cons: Difficult to set up without an HDMI screen.
Overall Review: For those that say "doesn't power my bigger speakers", try playing music while you adjust the XOVER (Crossover) setting. That might help, I just did that yesterday and found that the higher up the Crossover is, the more kick it puts out to my big speakers that have 12" woofers. (Mind you, I DON'T yet have a subwoofer, so subwoofer is set to NO/OFF)
Pretty good case..but as for the power button, that doesn't need to be a problem with a good board
Pros: - Lots of holes and lots of ways to handle cable management - For sata disks, it's nice that up to 5 drives could be powered by just one sata plug..I only used 2, and also for the sata disks, the easy swap is cool too. Just press a button and a hard drive comes out the side. (in one of the slots of the rack though) - The fans are huge, but the dust filters work INCREDIBLE. Lots of air flow. - The case is huge so plenty of room inside. - Well..the obvious cosmetic fans are kinda interesting, but I don't really use the colors, there's a button on the top to disable the colors..I'm not fascinated by that kind of stuff lol, don't want to wear out the fan LEDs or the fans that way. - Oh, the back plate for locking PCI-E slot devices into place is kinda cool, it's interesting and convenient.
Cons: - Yeah...the power button everyone talks about, and the reset button..it's like they were sealed on or snapped on with hot glue or something on the front, but that wasn't even done very well.. so if you hit it the button(s) too many times, you will have to unscrew the button holders from the case, and snap the button back into place from behind. It happens rarely though. That doesn't have to happen though.
Overall Review: I say the power button thing doesn't need to happen, because if you're smart about it, you don't need to use the power button every time you boot up the PC...sigh...Maybe it's just a Windows 10 problem, I don't know, because I have Windows 10 and the problem happens with me and I have Windows 10: Details about the power button: - IF I use the power button sometimes, it POSTS, but it like..locks up on windows boot up with the Windows 10 logo, so I gotta hit the reboot button. Then when it comes back, it POSTS again and it's like "diagnosing your PC" with the windows 10 logo and spinning circles or something, so I have to hit the reboot button again, and it "might" or "might not" work? Who knows??? Something is messed up with it, so here's what I just do to avoid that whole problem altogether: I hardly ever use the power button to turn on my computer. Even if it's shut down. In Windows I have Keyboard settings set up for "Allow this device to wake the computer." When it's shut down, I just tap the space bar and it boots up (even if it's shut down.) For my board, in my BIOS settings, there's an option about having Space Bar being a wake option for the board, and I have the setting of "Restore AC Power After Loss:" or something set to "Power On" or whatever that option is, so if I were to flip the switch on the PSU to off, then back on, the motherboard will automatically turn itself on. (I've come to find in the past that other motherboards, even with that feature being DISABLED the feature doesn't actually WORK, and other computers turn back on anyways even if it says disabled or power off. On my current motherboard, turning the PSU off and on with the feature set to "Power Off", it actually stays off and works correctly..sigh), SO, here's the solution to the power button problem: Kinda 2 solutions... 1. Just use the PSU for your "power button", because that's what I do lol. (if something actually does go wrong while using the computer and need to force reboot it and or something with the method I just typed out, which is almost never, via all the "Power on AC loss" mumbo jumbo, OR, the following: 2. - IF You have to use the actual power or reboot buttons, just do this. Turn the computer on via power button (that you say is faulty or w/e), then hit DEL or F1 or w/e to go into the BIOS..then just exit the bios exit & save changes don't even make any changes just go into BIOS and Save & Exit, then let it boot up to Windows, and problem solved. If it doesn't work, reboot it again and go into BIOS again & exit saving changes again until you can get it to boot to Windows (10). Eventually it'll work. It's a pain in the rump. I prefer just to get it to enable hibernation / sleep mode, look up the powercfg commands for cmd, to enable hibernate and stuff, like powercfg /hibernate /? if it has a problem with turning itself on or off or any stuff like that, or windows media center, look that up online too, that's caused me problems in the past with it updating and keeping the computer from being shut down or hibernating..windows media center probably be in Task Scheduler if it's causing a problem. Also, if it's waking from sleep check for powercfg /waketimers ...should tell you what's waking computer up from sleep. This is a LOT of helpful information for just a review of a case. (Bear in mind cmd requires administrator priveleges to run these commands). Have a nice day. =)
How have I NOT written a review by now?!
Pros: It's 2017 now. I bought this processor in 2011 for the computer I built back then and it's been 6 or 7 years. I've done built me a new computer this year, with SLI and watercooling and a i7 5960x. This "Core i5-760 Lynnfield Quad-Core 2.8 GHz LGA 1156" has been, and still is, incredible, I don't know how it's lasted this long. The only problem, throughout the years, was that Microsoft forced Windows 10 down my computer's throat. I had to reformat it back to Windows 7. I just gave my old PC (with the i5), and I'm going out to her place for Christmas and New Years (2017-2018) to get the i5 computer set up for them, because all the parts I bought in 2011 still WORK, (obviously including this i5-760 processor), and she doesn't get internet where she lives, and since the computer has been reformatted back to Windows 7, she won't get Windows Updates :D Pros - It's been an awesome gaming computer, setup was: Windows 7 Professional. Intel i5 Quad Core 760 @ 2.8 GHz ASUS P7P55D-E Pro Motherboard 8 GB DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) RAM ASUS GeForce GTX 970 4GB 256-Bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 HDCP Ready SLI Support CORSAIR HX series 650W Power Supply Antec Black Steel Case And, the drives in it are as follows: ASUS DVD-RW Black SATA 24X DVD Burner Intel 80 GB Internal SATA 2 SSD WD VelociRaptor 150GB -10000 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5"
Cons: A hard drive did actually crash during the years I had it, but that was irrelevant. I just replaced the drive. (it was a storage drive, not the boot drive) Also: -This computer made me play too many dang games in my twenties and I never had a woman. =P
Overall Review: Might say "In 2011 the Geforce GTX 970 didn't exist", In 2011 I didn't buy the GTX..I bought a AMD Radeon HD 6870 for the computer in 2011, but replaced that with the GTX 970 for better gaming along the years.