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Canon EOS 80D 1263C005 Black Digital SLR Camera with 18-55mm IS STM Lens  KIT
  • Verified Owner
  • neweggOwned For: 1 month to 1 year

5 out of 5 eggs Great camera, better-than-expected lens 11/17/2016

This review is from: Canon EOS 80D 1263C005 Black Digital SLR Camera with 18-55mm IS STM Lens KIT

Pros: a) This camera is FAR more solidly built than I had expected I initially thought it would be a simple "body upgrade" from a Canon Rebel T2i, but the build quality of the camera, along with the substantial weathersealing that this camera has, makes it a more balanced camera when dealing with enthusiast and pro-level lenses such as the Canon 24-70 2.8 L II USM. This solid build helps also when quickly grabbing the camera, or holding it tight and close to compose and gain the sharpest shot possible. This is in stark contrast to my T2i, which often felt a bit anorexic in the hand-grip area, and when dealing with heavier walkaround lenses such as the 24-105 F/4 L IS USM and the 24-70 2.8 mk2, That being said, I still wouldn't try to put an unsupported 300mm 2.8 IS II USM, or other "super telephoto" lens on this camera without some sort of tripod-based support that supports at the lens, rather than the 80D.

b) AF Performance: Going from even the 70D, (19 AF Points, all x-type) let alone my T2i (9 AF Pts, only center one x-type @ f/2.8), this camera is far more confident, hunts less for focus at night or in low-contrast scenes, and is extremely quick when a good lens is placed on it. Even the included 18-55 STM lens is no slouch, and is FAR quicker to autofocus than the IS lens that came with my T2i back in 2010. Because of the improved AF system, not only are shots easier to get, but they are sharper because of the abundance of cross-type sensors. Further improving this is that the camera now has a 7,560 pixel RGB AF metering sensor rather than the 63-zone IFCL sensor that could only measure in B&W, which helps for color gradation accuracy when the camera is autofocusing and composing the shot

c) High ISO Capability: I find myself happily shooting at up to ISO 3200 on a consistent basis, and even ISO 6400 is usable for smaller (read: 8x10 or less) photos. Canon finally began increasing dynamic color range in its cameras, and the 80D is the first APS-C beneficiary. The result is that ISO 5000 no longer is a noise-fest, and ISO 6400 is usable in lower-light. That isn't to say that APS-C is an ISO peer compared to a full-frame camera (ie: Canon 5D Mark 4), but going from the T2i to the 80D has given me at least 2 full stops of ISO coverage in low-light.

d) Video capability: It shoots 1080p / 30 with low compression, and 1080p / 60 in "YouTube Friendly" MP4 compression. I'm not much for video, so I view this as "a nice substitute for a dedicated camcorder." I'd still rather have a dedicated camcorder that isn't hindered by recording length limitations imposed by EU regulations though. But that being said, since it's there, and it works, it's a good thing. I'm mostly a photographer though. The tilty screen in this regard is amazingl. I have used it to playback video, and when I don't want it for photographing, I fold it away and now I don't have screen flare, and the screen is well-protected against the elements.

e) HUGE VIEWFINDER with 100% viewfinder coverage. This means no surprises in the picture, and the viewfinder is big and bright. This makes it easy to see what will be in the picture and compose it, while having enough room for notifications such as "level" (ie: no more lopsided pictures) and "flicker alerts" (the latter is to avoid taking pictures while lights may be flickering). I wish more mid-level Cameras had this, and that this feature wasn't relegated to full-frame and pro-level APS-C cameras.

Cons: a) My 24-70 doesn't always play nice with this camera. Some lenses may need calibration via AFMA (Autofocus Micro Adjustment) in order to do their best on this camera. That being said, I really have to pixel peep to make this condition happen, and most of it is because I don't hold the lens ideally to balance the weight and prevent "focus shift" due to my hand creeping.

b) Weight: THe same weight that gives it a professional-like feel, can be a bit offputting to someone used to cameraphones and point and shoots. All Digital SLRs have a substantial amount of mass to them, but that mass is good for countering heavy lenses, providing an assured feel, etc.,

Other Thoughts: If I was given the choice, I would buy this product in a heartbeat. I'm not a big 4K Person, so 4K doesn't bother me. I would have, though, liked to have the choice of ALL-I 1080p at 60fps for better mastering and color rendering in post-production. The 80D is capable of using SDXC cards that go up to 104MB/s, and since even ALL-I 1080p/30 only uses 90Mb/s (about 11MB/s), there would be no problem if larger, faster cards (64GB and larger UHS-1 Class 3 cards) would enable an ALL-I 60fps mode that would be 180Mb/s (about 22.5MB/s). This would improve the overall video quality of 1080p, provide a higher-quality master source for social media-based persons to make YouTube videos with (without spending $3k-plus for the 5D Mark 4), and with the advent of 30MB/s becoming a new minimum write speed for many high-performance cards (the SD Association recently released V30 as a new standard), 1080p / 60 ALL-I should become a reward for buying a high-speed, high-capacity card.

I wish Canon would update their 17-55 f/2.8 for a new generation of high-resolution APS-C sensored cameras (and included that with the kit instead). Other than that, this is a spectacular camera and the 18-55 kit lens is no slouch either. It's earned a spot on my old T2i as a backup lens, and is EXTREMELY sharp on it.

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NF-F12 iPPC-2000 IP67 Fan with Focused Flow™ and SSO2 Bearing, Retail
  • Verified Owner
  • neweggOwned For: 1 month to 1 year

5 out of 5 eggs Good Exhaust Fans, GREAT Radiator Fans 11/27/2014

This review is from: NF-F12 iPPC-2000 IP67 Fan with Focused Flow™ and SSO2 Bearing, Retail

Pros: First, these fans are based off of the normal NF-F12 platform which has been used as intake fans, exhaust fans, and radiator fans for the better part of a decade, the design (high static pressure, quiet, low energy use) has been made better by using a more efficient motor design (six-pole and three phase vs. four-pole and one phase) that results in less "torque" momentum and smoother spinning, but also allows for higher rpm operation (2000rpm) vs. the standard NF-F12 PWM (1500rpm) at only 0.1A. So you get more of the noctua performance, with a very insignificant (0.05w) boost in power use. They also have a different type of plastic that is of higher build quality than normal NF-F12s, and they're IP67, so they can be used in watery / dusty conditions that would ruin normal fans (dust-tight, and waterproof to 1 meter for 30 minutes)

As far as being exhaust fans, they are static-pressure optimized, at 3.94mm H2O, which means they will be quite good at moving air in your case through restrictive filters or holes (ie: air coolers, rear-exhaust), At full speed (2000rpm), they can move about 71 cfm, so a stock 140mm case fan may not be able to provide sufficient intake to alleviate a negative pressure situation which may cause dust to enter. Nonetheless, because they move a great deal of air, and can do so through restrictive environments, they're great for removing CPU heat / GPU heat / residual heat from a computer. Just make sure you have sufficient intake. I use dual NF-A14 iPPC 2000rpm fans for intake - they can bring in over 200cfm combined, so the "lack of intake" problem is alleviated for me.

Where these fans really shine though, is as radiator fans. I have them on a Swiftech H220x AIO expandable water cooler, and they are tasked with pulling hot air and heat away from an Intel Core i7-4790K with a 4.2GHz OC and a memory controller dealing with 32GB of DDR3-2400 RAM. Compared to the stock Helix fans that come with the unit (they can go from 800 to 1800rpm; the Noctuas go from about 700rpm to 2000rpm), temperatures at the CPU dropped 3 Degrees C using the fans as intakes compared to the stock Helix fans as intakes, and dropped 5 to 6 Degrees C when the NF-F12s in this review were used as exhausts.

They also have a more pleasing noise than the Helix fans, having a lower pitched woosh rather than a high-pitched whir. I put this to partially the fan shroud design, the blade design (thick blades vs. many thin, sickle-esque blades), and the frequency of the fan's motors. They work better with the fan noises my GPU and PSU make, and thus don't stand out or create undue interference with my work / gaming. When gaming, they spin up, become loud, and aid in my CPU not exceeding 55 Deg C while gaming, and remove enough heat to keep my GPU (780 Ti Classified @ Stock) from exceeding 65 Deg C.

Cons: At startup, these fans can be a bit noisy since for approximatey 3 to 5 seconds they spin at full speed. However, once the BIOS is booted up, the fans reduce their noise to the more typical low-pitched drawl that I find pleasing. This comes down more to the motherboard BIOS and how it works, but it can be off-putting to have more than one of these at full-speed for an extended period of time if one is used to quieter (and / or silent) case fans.

They can be expensive, so try to find them on sale (they're usually $30 to $35 each). I bought 3 of them (2 for my H220x as pull fans; one for the rear exhaust), but the warranty, build quality, etc., makes it worth it. Sure, one can find delta fans for $10 more, but they will spin at up to 7,000rpm, use upwards of 4 amps (48w) of energy each, and require a molex controller for each fan (and they can exceed 70db). So the price issue is somewhat ameliorated by the quality / quiet / performance per dollar; and the ability to plug into a standard 4-pin motherboard connector without blowing it up (most mobo PWM connectors are only made to handle 1 Amp per fan).

Lastly, although the brown color scheme is largely gone, they still have brown rubber bumpers. Thankfully, they can be removed should you not have the space in the case for them, or simply want a much more desirable all-black motif (the latter reason being why I removed mine).

Other Thoughts: Along with two NF-A14 IPPC 2000rpm IP67 fans as intakes, I have three of the NF-F12s for exhausting purposes (1 for rear exhaust, 2 to pull air through a Swiftech H220-x for "the chimney effect" in a rig configured as follows

Case: Corsair Obsidian 350D
Motherboard: Asus Maximus VII GENE
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K @ 4.2GHz
RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance Pro DDR3-2400
SSD: Samsung 850 Pro 256GB
GPU: EVGA GTX 780 Ti Classified
PSU: Seasonic SS-1050XP3 1050w 80 Plus Platinum PSU
Cooler: Swiftech H220x 2x120mm AIO Expandable Liquid Cooler

Although the 3 fans were close to $100 combined, they have significantly improved my mATX rig's ability to cool itself both by removing ambient heat that resides as a result of the GPU, as well as improve the H220x's ability to remove heat through increased static pressure. Yes, the overall fan cost was expensive, but when one has an overstuffed "small rig", every extra mm of static pressure, every cubic foot of airflow, helps in a small way to remove unwanted heat from the rig.

However, that is not to say that these are a cure-all for poor wire / cable management. Yes, they will move more air out of your system (or into your system if they are intakes), but the ultimate responsibility to make the computer have as much focused, yet free-flowing, airflow, as possible rests on the consumer's ability to use whatever cable management (in back of the motherboard, below the GPU, etc.,) exists to ensure that interruptions / hindrances are reduced. If you have good, clean cable management, a radiator that you want more heat removal capabilities, and are willing to get multiple 140mm fans for intakes, then these fans are incredible exhaust / radiator fans.

They're keepers (as are my NF-A14s I reviewed that currently reside as intakes)

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Noctua NF-A14 iPPC-2000 IP67, 140mm PWM,AAO Frame Technology and SSO2 Bearing Fan_ Retail
  • Verified Owner
  • neweggOwned For: 1 month to 1 year

5 out of 5 eggs amazing intake fans for 350D 11/18/2014

This review is from: Noctua NF-A14 iPPC-2000 IP67, 140mm PWM,AAO Frame Technology and SSO2 Bearing Fan_ Retail

Pros: I bought 2 of these fans to use as intake on my Corsair 350D mATX case. Specs will be in "Other Thoughts"

First things first: even though these fans are higher rpm fans compared to their normal NF-A14 brethren (2000rpm v. 1500rpm), they use less amperage from the fan-header in order to achieve this result. The better motor that these fans have means that they can put out higher rpms, with less energy, which puts less stress on the header, the motherboard, etc., This translates not only into more rpms (and better cooling), but also a quieter fan due to less resistance at the motor level. I have 2 of these as an intake in my 350D, and other than the initial startup (when all fans go to max settings for a few seconds), the computer is actually very quiet. A quiet PC that brings in a LOT of cool air (each of these fans is good for over 100cfm and over 4mm of static pressure, and at idle still brings in cool-to-hand air into the PC), is a happy PC. For those wondering, all that static pressure is good when there's a dust filter and a front fascia in front of the intake, but EXTREMELY good when put with a radiator... the higher the static pressure with a radiator, the more airflow in the desired direction.

Second, these fans as intakes bring a lot of cool air to a completely non-reference GPU (my 780 Ti Classified) that is living in an mATX case. Because of how much air these fans can move, and combined with the Classified's larger-than-normal ACX fans, I have yet to see GPU temps climb above 64 Deg C when gaming or benchmarking. What does this ability to keep components cool translate to? A longer lifespan for the components in your computer (GPU, mobo, CPU, etc.,). Do note though, that if you have a non-reference GPU that exhausts air into the case, you may have to load up the available fan-space with more than one of these fans in order to maximize the ability to remove hot air from a case - particularly a smaller case such as the 350D.

Lastly, build quality / appearance. For those who are wondering, yes the brown rubber anti-vibration mounts are removable, so it is possible to remove any vestige of the "brown" that these noctuas may have. However, what is more important is build quality. These fans don't have flex, the blades are all consistent to the expected NF-A14 design, there are no grooves or other imperfections in the blades, and there is a 6-year warranty with them. Did I mention they're dust-proof and highly water-resistant? (1m submersion for 30 minutes). Even if you're not in a field where there is a lot of dust / particulates, I'd still recommend these fans because this certification may reduce the amount of "dead fan" claims that your business gets.

Cons: Just one. They are quite loud at start-up... for all of five seconds as the computer goes to POST. Other than that, they're nearly silent (unless you're running a CPU benchmark such as AIDA64). Also, if putting 2 of them in a small case (ie: obsidian 350D), they can be difficult to finagle into position. Not a fault of the fan, but something to be known.

To get the fans in, I had to remove the brown anti-vibration mounts. I then had to preload the screws that would go to the outer 4 corners, then slide the fans in in a v-shape until they lay flat. The top corners in my 350D would partially hide the screw. Once the dual 140s were flush to the 350D's screwholes, screw in the TOP screws first, then the bottom ones. You then have a large rectangle, but the fans are posted and secure. Now do the 4 screws closest to the center of the fan-stack you made, and dual 140s will fit.

Other than that, nothing to report.

Other Thoughts: here are the specs:

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K @ 4.2GHz
GPU: nVidia GTX 780 Ti Classified
RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance Pro DDR3-2400
SSD: Samsung 850 Pro
Cooler: Swiftech H220-x
PSU: Seasonic SS-1050XP3 80 Plus Platinum
Mobo: Asus Maximus VII Gene

My COmputer idles in the high 20s / low 30s C for the CPU, and the GPU idles in the mid 20s Deg C. My room temp is 21 Deg C for the exam, based on my room barometer / thermometer combo. Would definitely buy again, and if I had a larger case, put more of them in. 3000rpm is overkill unless you have a 60mm radiator in back (or in front) of them.

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Jason G.'s Profile

Display Name: Jason G.

Date Joined: 09/16/06

  • Reviews: 14
  • Helpfulness: 12
  • First Review: 09/11/07
  • Last Review: 11/17/16
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