Pros: The fine mesh should block the dust and lint getting inside through my front case fans.

Cons: These were going under the removable front cover of the case. I wasn't going to screw them in, because I want to easily remove them later to clean off accumulated dust. The magnetic frame is very weak. Also, the cutout for the front fans has some metal missing along the edges of the fans (mostly just the areas where the fans screw into the case), so there was some metal missing along the middle edges of the filter's frame (little or no metal contact). Solution: use self-stick Velcro squares on the case and corners of the filters.

Overall Review: While it would have been easier if the magnetic frame had a stronger pull, using self-stick Velcro squares at the corners worked very well. I would buy these again (and get some more sticky Velcro).

Pros: This is a followup to my other review regarding users thinking that a passive rewiring adapater will convert their USB-only device into supporting PS/2.

Cons: The price of active USB-to-PS/2 adapters needed to get USB-only devices to support PS/2 ports is quite high.

Overall Review: For those trying to use a passive USB-to-PS/2 adapter with a USB-only designed device, see: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812200976 "Newer USB keyboards and mice cannot simply use simple adapters to connect to PS/2 ports, as the signal is of a different nature, so active conversion is required for full functionality."

Pros: Nice to see a display of how much power is consumed when first charging, and as charging progresses.

Cons: Eventually discarded all these USB cables. They would throttle the charging current, so the phone would take a LOT longer to charge. Even the phone would complain that the charging rate was too low, and suggested using a different charger. Problem wasn't with the A/C charger adapter. Using the same one but with dumb cables let the phone charge fully in one fourth the time. In fact, with these cables, the charging rate would get so slow that the phone wouldn't get charged fast enough to account for how much power it was consuming.

Overall Review: Nice idea, but interferes with charging. Rate of charge gets slowed down way too much. Takes a lot longer to charge the phone. Have to blank the screen to have the phone use less energy since these cables would slow the charge so low that the phone actually discharged with these cables than charge up. These cables would limit the charge current below what the phone was consuming despite I wasn't using the phone and its display had been blanked. Tossed all of them in the trash. Straight aka dumb cables work much better: much shorter charge up time, and charge rate exceeds power consumption of phone when on. Maybe the logic module at the end (where is the display of power consumption) could have failed, not on on 4 of them. I had bought one, thought it was great, and bought 3 more. More than year later of waiting longer for the phone to charge, and even discharging when using these cables, and testing dumb cables that worked at higher charge rates, I found it was wasted money on a gimmick that failed.

Pros: It has an on/off switch on its base that makes sure that the mic is disabled when you don't want Windows (Cortana) listening to you. Flipping a switch on the mic is easier than digging into mixer/audio settings to mute/disable the mic input.

Cons: Signal output is far too low for recording your voice with this desktop mic sitting on the desktop. You must up the gain to max (+30 dB) and volume to max (100%) in Windows' mic settings to hear anything, plus you need to pick up the *desktop* mic to hold perpendicular at your mouth to get a decent recorded volume level.

Overall Review: There is an impedance mismatch. The specs on this microphone say it has a 2000 ohm impedance. The motherboard mic inputs that I looked at range from 600 to 1000 ohms. Line-in expects a higher signal level and typically is 10,000 ohms impedance, so you definitely cannot use a non-powered mic on that input. Recorded volume level, as noted by many other users, is way too low. This is a passive mic, so no amp (as with a sound card) to up the signal, and motherboard mic inputs may have an amp but still expect a greater signal than produced by this mic. I have gone into Windows (Control Panel -> Sound -> Recording devices, selected this mic, Properties, Levels tab) and upped both the volume level and boost (gain) for this device. That does increase the volume when recording (as tested using the Voice Recording app included in Windows) but enough to just hear the recorded voice. That is with the mic pointed at me at a distance of about 12 inches. Only if you hold this mic right up to your mouth (and sideways to reduce the puffing noise from your aspirations when speaking straight into the mic) can you get a decent recording level. However, this is a desk mic. It has a stand, tilts to adjust to point at you, and is obviously meant to NOT be held by hand but instead sit on the desk. This mic produces way too little signal strength. It is a passive mic (so no built-in preamp) and will work only with mic inputs that have far more gain than afforded by Windows' own mic settings. I even went into the Realtek audio app (since the mobo's chipset uses that chip) to check on the mic level. It was already at 100%. Gain was already set at +30 dB. Likely these settings simply matched what I configured in Windows' own mic recording levels. In the Realtek app, there were a couple more options: noise suppression and acoustic echo remove. With noise suppression enabled, recorded volume did not improve, but the recording sounded more hollow. The acoustic echo option had no effect; however, I wasn't playing back through the speakers at the time that I use Voice Recorder to record a test session. Volume of the recording did not improve. Nothing available in Windows or the RealTek app improved the recording volume level for this mic. I obviously cannot replace the Realtek chip on the mobo. I've already got its latest drivers. No settings in Windows or the Realtek app improved (increase) the recording level. This mic is just too wimpy for signal level output, plus it doesn't match the input impedance of the mic input on the mobo (at the backpanel ports). Need to find a passive mic that better matches the impedance of the mic input on the mobo or produces a greater signal, or find an active (pre-amped) mic to use with either the mic or line-in inputs on the mobo's backpanel -- or go to a USB-connected mic since that provides 5V power for a built-in preamp in the mic. I've had USB headsets on this computer and those worked just fine; however, I just wanted a desktop mic, not a headset that I have to wear.

Pros: The puller worked well. I had to either wiggle it down to get both tangs to grasp opposite sides of a keycap or use the pry end of the plastic brush wand to keep the key up while pushing down on the puller. The keys got noticeably quieter. I like the feel of the brown Cherry switch but not the noise. Regardless of not having anyone around to hear the clackity clack of my keyboard, *I* want a quieter keyboard. That's why I stayed with rubber dome keyboards for so long.

Cons: Instead of a finger-sized ring with tangs that snap around a key cap, a couple long tweezer arms with a plastic middle would let the user push them together at the top to open the tangs at the bottom and release to have the plastic middle bring the bottom tangs back together. What they provided worked okay, but I would like a little less chance for the key cap to fly off while pinched and pulled.

Overall Review: Be careful when pulling key caps off the elongated keys (spacebar, tab, backspace, numEnter, numPlus, shift keys) as they use a bail to level the key during its throw (to prevent it sticking due to torqueing the cap when pressing not dead center atop the switch stem). It takes a bit of effort to get the bail back in place (and daintier fingers than mine would help). No idea why a microfiber cloth came with the kit. Maybe it goes under the keyboard in case you fumble an o-ring. Buying this kit is a lot cheaper than going to the hardware store to buy them individually, plus those would be rubber/nylon O-rings instead of silicone. There must have been a couple dozen, or more, spare O-rings after modifying a 104-key keyboard. Silicone doesn't last forever, and some keys get a lot more wear than others, so there will be spares for o-ring replacement.

Pros: Quiet fan. Keeps my non-overclockable CPU very cool (34C).

Cons: RGB cable is a bit short (about 3-4 inches). Not all mobos will have a RGB header at the top or side (mine were all at the bottom). Had to remove video card to route RGB cable underneath by rear slot to barely reach the RGB header on that side of the bottom of the mobo. Alas, this fan won't obey BIOS/UEFI RGB control. The fan just keeps pulsing (or "breathing" mode).

Overall Review: Will have to decide if to leave disconnected the RGB cable from the fan (if that keeps off its LED) or use the mickey-mouse cabling that has an inline control module but connects only to a Molex power connector instead of a SATA power connector). The latter has me routing more cabling and trying to hide it inside the case. Really disappointed that connecting to a mobo RGB header didn't let the BIOS control the lighting effect. Forget trying to read the manual on how to get the RGB working with the LEDs in the fan. The manual is nothing but a bunch of pictures. No text, no description, no mention how to get the fan to work with the mobo RGB header rather than having to use a mickey-mouse setup with an inline controller and separate power source. If I decide to not bother with the RGB effect (just don't hook up the inline controller and Molex connector), I might've as well as bought a non-RGB fanned heatsink. The heatsink was about 2-3 mm too wide. The fan would hit the memory module (slot 1), so the fan could not be positioned all the way down (meaning there would be turbulence at the top of the fan from hitting the non-finned top of the heatsink). Had to move the fan to the other side, but that placed it near the exhaust fan in the case. The case fan blows out. The heatsink fan blows into the fins. The fans were only about 3-4 inches apart. I did not want them competing for airflow: fans pointing in opposite directions reduce overall airflow, and there wasn't enough distance between the fans to be sure they wouldn't compete for airflow direction. Had to remove the mounting brackets from the fan, so I could turn the fan around. That meant the heatsink fan was now pulling air through the heatsink instead of pushing the air through. Will have to monitor CPU temps to check that a pull config is just as effective as a push config. 2 stars deducted for being a wee bit overly wide making the fan collide with the memory module and making me come up with an alternate config. 1 star deducted for the RGB fan not working with the mobo's RGB header (fan's LED just keeps pulsing instead of matching RGB setting in BIOS).

Waited 3 weeks for the item. Asked the seller why no delivery. Their excuse was customs. I've ordered from other "First from Asia" suppliers at Newegg. In fact, another item ordered at the same time and it arrived in 6 days. 9 days wouldn't been okay. Another week has elapsed yet still no delivery. A month is intolerable. They're stalling. I have submitted a request to Newegg to cancel the order and have the charge refunded. I will find someone else who actually delivers on the sale.