Date Joined: 09/03/01
Pros: Beautiful Accurate Colors, Contrast, Black levels, Brightness, low even ips glow "AT FIRST"...READ THE CONS
Cons: Con #1 Mine was obviously defective, so maybe most of my problems are NOT model based vs me just having a bad monitor.
After a few weeks I noticed the "ips glow" (google it if you don't understand what I'm talking about) getting worse, and worse, to the point where even at 30% brightness in dark scenes, windows 10 task bar or even in a game with semi to fully dark scenes It was like having a pure silver screen or driving head on down the highway towards someone using cheap led headlights "it actually hurt to look at". The monitor was also getting VERY HOT after the glow started increasing. The aluminum bezel around the power and menu buttons while nice and stylish was getting around 120 degrees+...
Con #2 The "HDR" on it was pathetic, I know most if not all current gen monitors under the pro-grade price ranges are not true HDR10 or anything close to it and I wasn't expecting it to be, since like most other brands it's just 8bit+ software for the extra 2 bits of color but still this was pretty bad on the Acer.
Con #3 The stand and it's mounting method are absolutely terrible, you have a 17lb monitor hooked to an aluminum base only held together by a small 1/2 inch long by 1/2 wide tab that inserts into the back of the monitor and snaps into plastic clips. If you bump either the monitor or the desk it's like a bobble head it wobbles so much.
Con#4 "THE BIGGEST PAIN":.... the onscreen display and it's options are terrible, you can't really change much you do get 6-axis color calibration and a few other what I consider must have features but it's limited. Tee main problem is simply that it's a big pain to navigate through like a bios from a 1990's era pc all the buttons are upside down way underneath the front panel and since there are about 6 buttons rather than scrolling you're stuck having having to press alot of buttons just to get in and adjust something simple like the brightness level. Hit the wrong button by accident and then whoops now you get to start all over. Accidentally pressed the next button over and changed to a preset mode? well goodie now when you go back to your custom profile you lost most of your brightness,contrast etc. settings that are now reset to default.
Needless to say I returned this promptly to newegg and went with what I should have ponied the cash up for in the first place the LG 27UK650-W... The difference is literally night and day on the LG. it's faster, Clearer, Completely adjustable stand for pivot, angle, 90 degree rotation, and most importantly height! if you don't like the stand, well then no biggy, the LG has vesa compatibility so you can mount it any way or angle you want.
Pros: Out of the box way better looking than the noctua which would run you $140 by the time you change fans for black ones even more $ if you add on the colored fin covers.
This is one of the quietest air coolers ive used but the most important part is it works VERY well! Having a 120mm front fan and a large fin cutout/notch gives you a Lot more room to run taller ram, the cooler is also offset upwards like the noctua Nh-D15S to keep from blocking your top pci-e slot.
Runs my non-delided stock out the box 8700k "intel batch #L739D463" at 5.0ghz 1.34v and my temps max out at 81-83c under stress testing via cinebench, aida, intel , prime . I can do 5.2 at 1.36v but that goes to about 92-94c after a shorter amount of time "shrugs". Maybe Ill get a delid done in the future if I decide to go back to 5.2.
Fan curve set at 50% upto 45c , 75%at 60c , 100% at 75c+. Even under heavy gaming i dont think it ever revs the fans past the 75%. Only torture testing do my temps and fan speed go up noticably.
Full cooling setup: Coolermaster h500p mesh case, stock dual 200mm front intakes, phanteks ph-f10sp 140mm in top all the way forward at reduced speed as intake, another phanteks in top all the rear at full speed as top exhaust, and 1 fractal design venturi hf-14 as rear exhaust on max. After alot of experimenting I found this fan configuration optimal for this cm case.
Cons: The fan clips are a royal p.i.t.a to keep messing with, especially if you do it multiple times to get your wires optimally lined up to feed through your cases' wiring hidey holes :-D
The black finish will scratch off the fins easily from the clips but thats to be expected grinding metal on metal.
Pros: For those who are saying "driver disk not included" it's pretty much hidden. The disc is stuck inside the layer of cardboard with the graphics and system specs on it "it's hard to notice until you peel it apart". Once you install the drivers, either from disk or website it's all just plug-n-play. speeds avg 80-110MBs which is far better than usb 2.0 especially for those big files.
Cons: What you get is not a "Syba branded" card it's "iOCrest" everything is packaged the same as syba and the card is layed out, colored, has the same average speeds and is built identical to the opposite brand. "I have both brands".
Overall Review: Average Speeds:
Oddly my WD My Passport 1tb item# WDBBEP0010BBK-NESN "which I also purchased from newegg" gets about 300~mbs transfer speeds until it gets about 85-90% done then slows down to about 100mbs....I don't really know whats up with that but its super fast then back to typical speeds.
I also have a Fantomdrive using usb 3.0 but that stays 120mbs or a little less
Mushkin Ventura Pro 32gb USB Thumbdrive gets about 100-110mbs
Patriot Xporter drive gets 80~.
There are no current usb 3.0 cards, or motherboards that put out anything Near the mythical 5gbs Superspeed or even the 480MBs Fullspeed boasted by usb 3.0.
The best you'll peak is maybe 250mbs I have several pcs, some new with usb 3.0 "and using high end motherboards aswell" and some older pcs using usb 3.0 adapter cards and 110+ is about the average speed of usb 3.0 "at this point in time". so until 3.0 gets updated or whatever you get the same usb 3.0 speeds on this $14 card that you'll get on a $400 motherboard