Pros: Internet bios flash - You don't have to be running windows 10 NSA edition to stay up to date. You will need to use a FAT32 thumb drive to get that to work tho, but it's really easy. BIOS based case and CPU fan speed controls - You can set them just like you'd set gpu fan speeds. It's really handy to help with keeping the fan noise under control. BIOS Boot Manager - I scoffed at this at first but I really like it now. It allows for you to assign names to drives and then choose which drive to use to boot when the system is turned on. No longer have to deal with software boot loaders, I currently use it to switch between 2 SSD's, one with Win10 (for gaming only!) and one with Ubuntu MATE for actual computer use. I have plans to throw in a Win7 SSD at some point too and make it triple boot. Intel NIC - They are all I use, all the time, in every machine. Realtek are ok, but I've had many randomly die that I don't rely on them. This board has 1 Intel and 1 Realtek. Why it's not just 2 Intel is beyond me, but I only really need 1 anyway. Power consumption - Most ppl don't care, but I do cause I pay the bills. This board with 3 SSDs, no external GFX and I7 6700 uses less then 50 watts when stress testing the CPU :) The CPU scales all the way down to just a few watts (800mhz) when idle which is nice for power savings. With a GTX 670 in it I've had it go as high as 170 watts. Granted the GPU maxes long before the CPU so it's not at full bore. I'm easily running the whole system with a 500 watt PS even tho nvidia says they recommend 500 watt min for the card. I will be going to 1060 mini at some point in the future tho which uses even less power then my old 670.

Cons: Memory capatibility - I coupled this board with 32GB Gskill Aegis ram and was having some serious instability issues. The MB support 2133 ram and that's what I had. I found tho that I had to reduce the ram down to 1066 to make it stable which is a serious reduction in speed. I have noticed that there has been a lot of bios updates for ram compatibilty so I'm hoping this will be addressed in the future and I can switch the ram back to full speed. Windows 7 compatibility - I get it, MS is trying to get rid of the best OS they have ever/will ever make. MB manufacturers shouldn't help them tho. There are USB 2.0 ports on the board but they don't work like normal ports so using them while doing a Win7 install is a pain. There is a BIOS option to help with that but it's a double-edged sword. Turning it on makes the mouse work, but will mess up a USB CDRom drive/thumb drive. In the end I wound up plugging in a SATA CD drive so I could get the OS installed. Display port - Will just call this one a gripe since the board doesn't have one. I know it's a Mini-ITX but at this point in the game they should pretty much be on boards. Not having one was the only real negative I had when I was choosing this board. I'm running an external GFX so I have one, but at some point when I move to a new board I will be left without one.

Overall Review: I like this board. Like I said, it should have display port and they need to increase their RAM compatibility. Other then that, it's been working just fine for me. I haven't have any crashes or instability issues, outside of the RAM timing I mentioned. It's a good board :)

Pros: Laptop has a nice finish and a good looking screen. A little more bleedthru from the backlight than I like normally but it is what it is for the price.

Cons: The laptop does NOT come with gigabit ethernet. At least mine didn't. This is a problem with this series from Dell. I've been to many stores and finding info on what it actually has is infuriatingly difficult. More of the 15.6" models have it, the 14" models almost never do. I bought one of these cause Newegg listed it as GB ethernet so I took a chance and lost. I had to take a couple Eggs off of this laptop not only because of the listing on the website being incorrect but COME ON! why would any laptop come with only 10/100 in this day and age??!?

Overall Review: The core i3 CPU's don't turbo boost like the i5's and above do. This means the redraw when opening and closing windows in Win7 isn't smooth. It is a budget laptop tho so it is what it is.

Pros: Read the cons section

Cons: I had great hopes for this board since it was a supermicro board with 4 network ports and didn't require ECC ram. However, the board turned out to be a total waste. I had a ton of issues even getting video out of the board on bootup. The HDMI port would just refuse to work. When I did manage to get it to show video it would often stop working a few boots later. Even if the video was working I pretty much never made it past the BIOS post screen. The motherboard would often just sit there forever waiting for an IPMI connection that would never come. No way to disable, and no way to bypass. Overall, I had really high hopes for this board but was really, really shocked at just how badly this one was built. I held onto the board for a long time in the hopes that a BIOS update would come along to help but in the end I just threw it out :(

Pros: Bought this board to use with a 6th gen CPU since I'm not interested in using Win10 at all. It has been a good stable board for me with the exception of the cons I've listed below.

Cons: I only have 2 issues with this board, one of which is Intel's fault and NOT ASRock's. 1) My first issue is the USB on this board. It is flakey as all heck! It will often glitch out on a given port if you plug a USB drive in and then take it out and then plug it back in to the same port. It won't recognize the drive again and you will need to switch to a diff port to make it work. This is an issue on both my board regardless of the OS I'm using. An add-on USB card is the solution for this for me but it wouldn't work for someone who wants to use an aftermarket GFX. 2) First off i want to say, thanks ASRock for using an Intel NIC instead of lowgrade Realtek. Having said that, the Intel NIC will often disconnect in windows. Win7 or Win10, it doesn't matter. This does not happen with Linux OS's tho. After a lot of work and trial and error I've found the cultprit is the Intel Pro-Set drivers. If you install them they put the adapter into low power mode which causes disconnects, even if you are using the NIC!. The fix for this is just to use Intel or MS basic drivers and disable all "power saving" options. Then the NIC works perfectly.

Overall Review: I did post this same cons list on the ASRock Z270M Pro4 LGA 1151 Intel Z270 board because it has the same issues as this board does. It is basically just a larger version of this board.

Pros: I'm currently using 2 of these boards for the last few years and I'd give them an 8 out of 10. I haven't had any stability issues with them at all. They are great boards for using a CPU that will work with Win7. It can be a bit of a problem to get that initial install tho but once you get it going with Win7 then you are good. I've also used this board with multiple Linux OS's without issue (in fact it works better then Windows, will explain in the Con Section).

Cons: I only have 2 issues with this board, one of which is Intel's fault and NOT ASRock's. 1) My first issue is the USB on this board. It is flakey as all heck! It will often glitch out on a given port if you plug a USB drive in and then take it out and then plug it back in to the same port. It won't recognize the drive again and you will need to switch to a diff port to make it work. This is an issue on both my board regardless of the OS I'm using. On my main computer I actually broke down and bought an aftermarket USB card and stopped using onboard. 2) First off i want to say, thanks ASRock for using an Intel NIC instead of lowgrade Realtek. Having said that, the Intel NIC will often disconnect in windows. Win7 or Win10, it doesn't matter. This does not happen with Linux OS's tho. After a lot of work and trial and error I've found the cultprit is the Intel Pro-Set drivers. If you install them they put the adapter into low power mode which causes disconnects, even if you are using the NIC!. The fix for this is just to use Intel or MS basic drivers and disable all "power saving" options. Then the NIC works perfectly.

Pros: - Size - For me the unit is a perfect size. It can fit into smaller areas of the room and largely go unnoticed. - Power - This unit has a physical switch (a tiny metal one) that allows you turn it off, set it to stay in standby and wait for signal to turn on or to just remain on all the time. Handy, but I don't believe this unit has an "anti-thump" circuit so it does make a noise for me when it activates. - Sound - When I first plugged it in I wasn't too impressed. I only paid $124 for it so I wasn't expecting greatness but after I recalibrated my receiver with it that all changed. This 10" sub was able to add a lot of low end that I wasn't expecting. The sound radiates well and doesn't sound directional to me. This sub is well worth the price that I paid for it.

Cons: - Port Noise - This unit can have "chuffing" port noise when you crank it up. This is really easy to do if your receiver is sending a "test noise" to it. I kept the crossover setting at below 80Hz and the gain below 50% and that took care of the problem. - LED - There is a green LED on the front that glows when the unit is on. It's actually behind the grill but you can see it glowing. My sub is out of my line of sight tho so I didn't bother to tape over it.

Overall Review: For the cost this sub is great. Just have to be aware of the crossover setting and gain on the back of the sub. Setting that crossover on the high end will definately cause the sub to playback higher "bass" sounds that won't sound good at all. I found that I got the best response by keeping the crossover under 80hz and the gain under 50%. After receiver calibration my Denon set the sub level at -12. I pretty much left it that low because the sub will put out a lot even being turned down that much. One more random comment. If you can get a test tone out of the sub but it doesn't play anything when you are listening to stuff, that is not a defect with the sub. Many receivers have a setting for LFE (low frequency effects) that is designed to send only signals designated as LFE to the sub. Music doesn't contain info like that. I had to go in on my receiver and set the sub to be "LFE+Main" so that it would play when I wasn't watching movies.

Seller is listing items for sale at a low price on Newegg that they do no have in their inventory and then marking the item as shipped in Newegg even tho they haven't shipped anything. They do contact you asking if you'd like a refund but it still wastes your time on an item you won't get.