Pros: First, these fans are based off of the normal NF-F12 platform which has been used as intake fans, exhaust fans, and radiator fans for the better part of a decade, the design (high static pressure, quiet, low energy use) has been made better by using a more efficient motor design (six-pole and three phase vs. four-pole and one phase) that results in less "torque" momentum and smoother spinning, but also allows for higher rpm operation (2000rpm) vs. the standard NF-F12 PWM (1500rpm) at only 0.1A. So you get more of the noctua performance, with a very insignificant (0.05w) boost in power use. They also have a different type of plastic that is of higher build quality than normal NF-F12s, and they're IP67, so they can be used in watery / dusty conditions that would ruin normal fans (dust-tight, and waterproof to 1 meter for 30 minutes) As far as being exhaust fans, they are static-pressure optimized, at 3.94mm H2O, which means they will be quite good at moving air in your case through restrictive filters or holes (ie: air coolers, rear-exhaust), At full speed (2000rpm), they can move about 71 cfm, so a stock 140mm case fan may not be able to provide sufficient intake to alleviate a negative pressure situation which may cause dust to enter. Nonetheless, because they move a great deal of air, and can do so through restrictive environments, they're great for removing CPU heat / GPU heat / residual heat from a computer. Just make sure you have sufficient intake. I use dual NF-A14 iPPC 2000rpm fans for intake - they can bring in over 200cfm combined, so the "lack of intake" problem is alleviated for me. Where these fans really shine though, is as radiator fans. I have them on a Swiftech H220x AIO expandable water cooler, and they are tasked with pulling hot air and heat away from an Intel Core i7-4790K with a 4.2GHz OC and a memory controller dealing with 32GB of DDR3-2400 RAM. Compared to the stock Helix fans that come with the unit (they can go from 800 to 1800rpm; the Noctuas go from about 700rpm to 2000rpm), temperatures at the CPU dropped 3 Degrees C using the fans as intakes compared to the stock Helix fans as intakes, and dropped 5 to 6 Degrees C when the NF-F12s in this review were used as exhausts. They also have a more pleasing noise than the Helix fans, having a lower pitched woosh rather than a high-pitched whir. I put this to partially the fan shroud design, the blade design (thick blades vs. many thin, sickle-esque blades), and the frequency of the fan's motors. They work better with the fan noises my GPU and PSU make, and thus don't stand out or create undue interference with my work / gaming. When gaming, they spin up, become loud, and aid in my CPU not exceeding 55 Deg C while gaming, and remove enough heat to keep my GPU (780 Ti Classified @ Stock) from exceeding 65 Deg C.

Cons: At startup, these fans can be a bit noisy since for approximatey 3 to 5 seconds they spin at full speed. However, once the BIOS is booted up, the fans reduce their noise to the more typical low-pitched drawl that I find pleasing. This comes down more to the motherboard BIOS and how it works, but it can be off-putting to have more than one of these at full-speed for an extended period of time if one is used to quieter (and / or silent) case fans. They can be expensive, so try to find them on sale (they're usually $30 to $35 each). I bought 3 of them (2 for my H220x as pull fans; one for the rear exhaust), but the warranty, build quality, etc., makes it worth it. Sure, one can find delta fans for $10 more, but they will spin at up to 7,000rpm, use upwards of 4 amps (48w) of energy each, and require a molex controller for each fan (and they can exceed 70db). So the price issue is somewhat ameliorated by the quality / quiet / performance per dollar; and the ability to plug into a standard 4-pin motherboard connector without blowing it up (most mobo PWM connectors are only made to handle 1 Amp per fan). Lastly, although the brown color scheme is largely gone, they still have brown rubber bumpers. Thankfully, they can be removed should you not have the space in the case for them, or simply want a much more desirable all-black motif (the latter reason being why I removed mine).

Overall Review: Along with two NF-A14 IPPC 2000rpm IP67 fans as intakes, I have three of the NF-F12s for exhausting purposes (1 for rear exhaust, 2 to pull air through a Swiftech H220-x for "the chimney effect" in a rig configured as follows Case: Corsair Obsidian 350D Motherboard: Asus Maximus VII GENE CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K @ 4.2GHz RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance Pro DDR3-2400 SSD: Samsung 850 Pro 256GB GPU: EVGA GTX 780 Ti Classified PSU: Seasonic SS-1050XP3 1050w 80 Plus Platinum PSU Cooler: Swiftech H220x 2x120mm AIO Expandable Liquid Cooler Although the 3 fans were close to $100 combined, they have significantly improved my mATX rig's ability to cool itself both by removing ambient heat that resides as a result of the GPU, as well as improve the H220x's ability to remove heat through increased static pressure. Yes, the overall fan cost was expensive, but when one has an overstuffed "small rig", every extra mm of static pressure, every cubic foot of airflow, helps in a small way to remove unwanted heat from the rig. However, that is not to say that these are a cure-all for poor wire / cable management. Yes, they will move more air out of your system (or into your system if they are intakes), but the ultimate responsibility to make the computer have as much focused, yet free-flowing, airflow, as possible rests on the consumer's ability to use whatever cable management (in back of the motherboard, below the GPU, etc.,) exists to ensure that interruptions / hindrances are reduced. If you have good, clean cable management, a radiator that you want more heat removal capabilities, and are willing to get multiple 140mm fans for intakes, then these fans are incredible exhaust / radiator fans. They're keepers (as are my NF-A14s I reviewed that currently reside as intakes)

Pros: a) This camera is FAR more solidly built than I had expected I initially thought it would be a simple "body upgrade" from a Canon Rebel T2i, but the build quality of the camera, along with the substantial weathersealing that this camera has, makes it a more balanced camera when dealing with enthusiast and pro-level lenses such as the Canon 24-70 2.8 L II USM. This solid build helps also when quickly grabbing the camera, or holding it tight and close to compose and gain the sharpest shot possible. This is in stark contrast to my T2i, which often felt a bit anorexic in the hand-grip area, and when dealing with heavier walkaround lenses such as the 24-105 F/4 L IS USM and the 24-70 2.8 mk2, That being said, I still wouldn't try to put an unsupported 300mm 2.8 IS II USM, or other "super telephoto" lens on this camera without some sort of tripod-based support that supports at the lens, rather than the 80D. b) AF Performance: Going from even the 70D, (19 AF Points, all x-type) let alone my T2i (9 AF Pts, only center one x-type @ f/2.8), this camera is far more confident, hunts less for focus at night or in low-contrast scenes, and is extremely quick when a good lens is placed on it. Even the included 18-55 STM lens is no slouch, and is FAR quicker to autofocus than the IS lens that came with my T2i back in 2010. Because of the improved AF system, not only are shots easier to get, but they are sharper because of the abundance of cross-type sensors. Further improving this is that the camera now has a 7,560 pixel RGB AF metering sensor rather than the 63-zone IFCL sensor that could only measure in B&W, which helps for color gradation accuracy when the camera is autofocusing and composing the shot c) High ISO Capability: I find myself happily shooting at up to ISO 3200 on a consistent basis, and even ISO 6400 is usable for smaller (read: 8x10 or less) photos. Canon finally began increasing dynamic color range in its cameras, and the 80D is the first APS-C beneficiary. The result is that ISO 5000 no longer is a noise-fest, and ISO 6400 is usable in lower-light. That isn't to say that APS-C is an ISO peer compared to a full-frame camera (ie: Canon 5D Mark 4), but going from the T2i to the 80D has given me at least 2 full stops of ISO coverage in low-light. d) Video capability: It shoots 1080p / 30 with low compression, and 1080p / 60 in "YouTube Friendly" MP4 compression. I'm not much for video, so I view this as "a nice substitute for a dedicated camcorder." I'd still rather have a dedicated camcorder that isn't hindered by recording length limitations imposed by EU regulations though. But that being said, since it's there, and it works, it's a good thing. I'm mostly a photographer though. The tilty screen in this regard is amazingl. I have used it to playback video, and when I don't want it for photographing, I fold it away and now I don't have screen flare, and the screen is well-protected against the elements. e) HUGE VIEWFINDER with 100% viewfinder coverage. This means no surprises in the picture, and the viewfinder is big and bright. This makes it easy to see what will be in the picture and compose it, while having enough room for notifications such as "level" (ie: no more lopsided pictures) and "flicker alerts" (the latter is to avoid taking pictures while lights may be flickering). I wish more mid-level Cameras had this, and that this feature wasn't relegated to full-frame and pro-level APS-C cameras.

Cons: a) My 24-70 doesn't always play nice with this camera. Some lenses may need calibration via AFMA (Autofocus Micro Adjustment) in order to do their best on this camera. That being said, I really have to pixel peep to make this condition happen, and most of it is because I don't hold the lens ideally to balance the weight and prevent "focus shift" due to my hand creeping. b) Weight: THe same weight that gives it a professional-like feel, can be a bit offputting to someone used to cameraphones and point and shoots. All Digital SLRs have a substantial amount of mass to them, but that mass is good for countering heavy lenses, providing an assured feel, etc.,

Overall Review: If I was given the choice, I would buy this product in a heartbeat. I'm not a big 4K Person, so 4K doesn't bother me. I would have, though, liked to have the choice of ALL-I 1080p at 60fps for better mastering and color rendering in post-production. The 80D is capable of using SDXC cards that go up to 104MB/s, and since even ALL-I 1080p/30 only uses 90Mb/s (about 11MB/s), there would be no problem if larger, faster cards (64GB and larger UHS-1 Class 3 cards) would enable an ALL-I 60fps mode that would be 180Mb/s (about 22.5MB/s). This would improve the overall video quality of 1080p, provide a higher-quality master source for social media-based persons to make YouTube videos with (without spending $3k-plus for the 5D Mark 4), and with the advent of 30MB/s becoming a new minimum write speed for many high-performance cards (the SD Association recently released V30 as a new standard), 1080p / 60 ALL-I should become a reward for buying a high-speed, high-capacity card. I wish Canon would update their 17-55 f/2.8 for a new generation of high-resolution APS-C sensored cameras (and included that with the kit instead). Other than that, this is a spectacular camera and the 18-55 kit lens is no slouch either. It's earned a spot on my old T2i as a backup lens, and is EXTREMELY sharp on it.

Pros: I bought 2 of these fans to use as intake on my Corsair 350D mATX case. Specs will be in "Other Thoughts" First things first: even though these fans are higher rpm fans compared to their normal NF-A14 brethren (2000rpm v. 1500rpm), they use less amperage from the fan-header in order to achieve this result. The better motor that these fans have means that they can put out higher rpms, with less energy, which puts less stress on the header, the motherboard, etc., This translates not only into more rpms (and better cooling), but also a quieter fan due to less resistance at the motor level. I have 2 of these as an intake in my 350D, and other than the initial startup (when all fans go to max settings for a few seconds), the computer is actually very quiet. A quiet PC that brings in a LOT of cool air (each of these fans is good for over 100cfm and over 4mm of static pressure, and at idle still brings in cool-to-hand air into the PC), is a happy PC. For those wondering, all that static pressure is good when there's a dust filter and a front fascia in front of the intake, but EXTREMELY good when put with a radiator... the higher the static pressure with a radiator, the more airflow in the desired direction. Second, these fans as intakes bring a lot of cool air to a completely non-reference GPU (my 780 Ti Classified) that is living in an mATX case. Because of how much air these fans can move, and combined with the Classified's larger-than-normal ACX fans, I have yet to see GPU temps climb above 64 Deg C when gaming or benchmarking. What does this ability to keep components cool translate to? A longer lifespan for the components in your computer (GPU, mobo, CPU, etc.,). Do note though, that if you have a non-reference GPU that exhausts air into the case, you may have to load up the available fan-space with more than one of these fans in order to maximize the ability to remove hot air from a case - particularly a smaller case such as the 350D. Lastly, build quality / appearance. For those who are wondering, yes the brown rubber anti-vibration mounts are removable, so it is possible to remove any vestige of the "brown" that these noctuas may have. However, what is more important is build quality. These fans don't have flex, the blades are all consistent to the expected NF-A14 design, there are no grooves or other imperfections in the blades, and there is a 6-year warranty with them. Did I mention they're dust-proof and highly water-resistant? (1m submersion for 30 minutes). Even if you're not in a field where there is a lot of dust / particulates, I'd still recommend these fans because this certification may reduce the amount of "dead fan" claims that your business gets.

Cons: Just one. They are quite loud at start-up... for all of five seconds as the computer goes to POST. Other than that, they're nearly silent (unless you're running a CPU benchmark such as AIDA64). Also, if putting 2 of them in a small case (ie: obsidian 350D), they can be difficult to finagle into position. Not a fault of the fan, but something to be known. To get the fans in, I had to remove the brown anti-vibration mounts. I then had to preload the screws that would go to the outer 4 corners, then slide the fans in in a v-shape until they lay flat. The top corners in my 350D would partially hide the screw. Once the dual 140s were flush to the 350D's screwholes, screw in the TOP screws first, then the bottom ones. You then have a large rectangle, but the fans are posted and secure. Now do the 4 screws closest to the center of the fan-stack you made, and dual 140s will fit. Other than that, nothing to report.

Overall Review: here are the specs: CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K @ 4.2GHz GPU: nVidia GTX 780 Ti Classified RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance Pro DDR3-2400 SSD: Samsung 850 Pro Cooler: Swiftech H220-x PSU: Seasonic SS-1050XP3 80 Plus Platinum Mobo: Asus Maximus VII Gene My COmputer idles in the high 20s / low 30s C for the CPU, and the GPU idles in the mid 20s Deg C. My room temp is 21 Deg C for the exam, based on my room barometer / thermometer combo. Would definitely buy again, and if I had a larger case, put more of them in. 3000rpm is overkill unless you have a 60mm radiator in back (or in front) of them.

Pros: Seasonic isn't as "pre-eminent" as say Corsair, Coolermaster, etc., but they are an ODM that has been building power supplies since 1975. In computer terms, they're one of - if not the - oldest and most established brands in computing. This PSU, being Seasonic's 1050w version, is no exception. It's a no-frills, legitimately 80 Platinum, PSU that gives seven years' warranty, and doesn't require a Degree in Computer Science to figure out what's going on. I upgraded my PSU from an RM850 (not a bad PSU) because my 780 Ti Classified stressed it out to where it could only deliver 11.8v to the GPU at gaming / benchmarking load at stock clocks. This PSU, with not only more efficiency, higher wattage, and better 12v delivery, provides not only a tighter-to-12v tolerance (12.05 to 12.06v at the GPU), but less voltage fluctuation (the 12v at the 780 Ti stays put at 12.06v, whereas the RM850 would fluctuate between 11.77v and 11.8v). For OC'd GPUs, this voltage consistency is very important for stability (whether it's factory OC'd, or OC'd via third-party means). Also, the PSU switches are a huge pro. The back switch is ENORMOUS, which not only makes it easy to turn on and off the PSU (I do this because my motherboard has a "breathing effect" that "nightlights" my room, but there is a 2nd, smaller, switch that allows you to control the fan spin-model. It can be confusing, but if the O-position is locked in, the PSU is in fanless mode until it reaches 35 Deg C, at which point it spins up. The I mode is the more traditional "always-on" mode. I prefer "always-on" simply as a matter of knowing it's on, but for those who wish to have one less fan contributing noise, it's a welcome option. Compared to the RM, which was arbitrarily silent until at 30% load, this can be more reassuring as the fan is always on. Build quality is incredible. Thick paint on the grey fan cover, a clear and detailed breakdown of each rail's capabilities, and a public disclosure of 80 Plus Platinum certification. All of the capacitors are japanese (Nippon Chemi-Con and Rubycon, if my memory serves), and the plugs from the cables into the PSU, as well as into the applicable components are solid, and although they may require some force for full connection, once they're in, they click, and that's it. The force needed may be a bit more than one is used to, but the build quality is such that the connection-result is going to ultimately outweigh reservations. Having a Sanyo Denki 120mm fan doesn't hurt either... more insane build quality there. Lastly, the price for what you get. You get a platinum seasonic PSU (where you don't have to investigate who actually built your PSU), at a cost that is reasonable for what Seasonic offers. No, it's not "valuemax" or some other brand where you save $50 and get cheap internals, I'd rather put my money towards a tank of a PSU, than save $50 on the PSU and have to buy new components after a PSU's demise.

Cons: First, the amount of force needed to put in the connectors at both the PSU end as well as the component end, can be a bit off-putting to new builders, or those expecting "easy-to-insert" clicks. Additionally, with the connectors, the 24-pin connector's PSU side is a bit unusual; it's a 9-pin and a 5-pin. This is fine, but the amount of cabling provided to daisy-chain the two is a bit short (and the resulting cable is a bit stiff. It may not be a problem in larger cases (ie: 750D-class), but in the Obsidian 350D that this is housed in, it requires patience and precision to properly plug in the connectors. Second (and admittedly, this one is quite subjective), Seasonic doesn't include a console suite that allows the end-user to monitor power properties of the PSU. This one's subjective in the sense that although Corsair and other companies have been promoting various power monitoring utilities, Seasonic chooses to limit the "user-interface" to the "fan-mode" switch. The benefit is simplicity in operation, but the cons are more for diagnostic purposes... is my PSU giving me its advertised efficiency, how many watts am i using in gaming / benching / OC mode, how are my PSU's internal temperatures, etc., To have an option that would allow me to view these properties - if I elected to do so - would be a nicety that would allow end-users to determine what they're using relative to the PSU's actual capacity. Lastly, (again, subjective since it's in a smaller-than-desired rig) I would have liked for the 24-pin connector to have been flat. Yes, it fits in my 350D's "cable management area", but the fit is very tight and I have to make sure no other wires are crossing its path. Otherwise my case won't close. It's not a knock on the PSU, because it's intended for larger cases with more cable management room, but it has to be known that its 24-pin cable may remove it from the top of your "small form factor" build list.

Overall Review: This is a no-frills, high-quality PSU that may lack software to wow you (or software to let you know the health of the PSU), but makes up for it with a 40-year reputation, simplicity in use, and sheer quality. Although I only run one 780 Ti Classified and a mildly OC'd 4790K with a Swiftech H220x liquid loop for cooling, knowing that I have room to expand for SLi'ing future GPUs, as well as knowing that the power delivery will be consistent to power-hungry components, is what mattered most to me. The SS-1050 XP3 by Seasonic does this. This PSU's closest cousin is the Cooler Master V1000, and although they share many of the same parts, the quality on the Seasonic edition is higher (bigger capacitors for not only better power delivery, but sufficient power to survive the "16ms power loss test" where power is dropped for 1hz. It's not as typical of a test as say, voltage consistency under heavy load, but it's nice to know that Seasonic takes this into consideration when building its PSUs. It's also Platinum vs. the V1000's gold rating. Another thought: The baggies that hold the cables, as well as the faux-velvet bag the PSU arrives in, are nice touches that let you know you bought a premium product. I like that, and although it's commonplace, I like Seasonic's presentation the best. Simple, but effective. One thing I will say, I wish Seasonic made larger PSUs - since at this level (ie: over 1000w), many are making 1500w PSUs (ie: Lepa G1600, Corsair AX1500i, EVGA 1600 G2 / P2, etc.,) designed for 4-way SLi and / or extreme overclocking. And perhaps an 80 Titanium PSU. Seasonic's reliability is insane, but there's nothing wrong with pushing the boundaries of what's possible in the process. But that's just reflections... as a PSU, this one's a keeper.

Pros: First, the packaging: EVGA knows this is a special card, and one that will most likely be used for overclocking, and includes with it not only the usual "you have OC power!" stickers, but a special pad to be used for overclocking on non-air based means (ie: water-cooled, DICE, LN2). Lots of goodies such as a poster, how to guide, stickers, etc., Comes with Unigine Benchmark on the driver disk if you want to see how your card performs both out of the box, as well as overclocked. EVGA knows that this isn't just a "gamer card", and wants to see how its end-users are going to exploit the possibilities. Second: the out of the box performance is insane. Without the push of a button, there's a 143MHz overclock versus the standard edition (1019 / 1020 v. 876 core; 1085 v. 928 boost - the boost is actually 157MHz over stock boost). With a small overclock after finding some once-included software that is no longer provided by EVGA, I was able to get a boost clock over 1200MHz without even having to up elements such as power usage, or GPU temperature threshold. The ACX cooler (larger than the ones on the reference and SC cards) has larger fans, more heatpipes, more heatsink area, and a VRM cover in order to maximize cooling and overclocking, and it showed. I cannot get the temps over 70 Deg C, even though the card is not in a "desirable" environment for such a large card - a Corsair Obsidian 350D case. Third: this card is surprisingly amicable in a microATX case at reference speeds (which, as mentioned earlier, are SIGNIFICANTLY higher than reference; this card boosts on its own to 1150MHz). Does it heat up the inside of the case? Absolutely, but that's a property of a cooler that emits its heat into the case rather than out the back of the case. As such, it's happiest alone, with no other GPUs immediately below it (this is why gaming boards have slots 1 and 5 as x16.... to provide 2 slots; worth of cooling to cards that behave in this matter for ventilation purposes. Lastly, it only needs 2 8-pins for its power purposes and it's ATX compliant, so 2 8-pins can be connected to it in the typical fashion from a modular PSU. This is a small one, but for those who may not be comfortable using 2 8-pins and a 6-pin in the classified's bigger brother (the Kingpin), this gives you much of its overclocking ability in a somewhat more controllable package. There's only one switch (an LN2 bios switch that ups the power threshold from 106% to 115% for more aggressive overclocking), rather than the 3 sets of switches on the Kingpin that control voltage bumping, and various card protection purposes; but if you're going for extreme cooling methods, the kingpin is *THAT* card; this is more for the water / air OCer who still wants a semblance of sanity. It also can do 4K resolution at high, and still get 60fps in most racing games (ie: Project CARS, Shift 2, Dirt 3, etc.,)

Cons: First, This card is much, MUCH, larger than a reference card, be it with a reference cooler or an ACX cooler, and it may have difficulty being secured into the PCI-E knockouts without a long screwdriver. Yes, this is for the power phases for overclocking, but it's important to know whether your case is large enough for this card. The GPU does fit in my Obsidian 350D, but with cables it's a tight fit. I would not attempt this in an mITX case (unless it's very large inside), or most mATX cases. Its size also means that the GPU needs to be supported until fully secured. I would feed the 8-pins over the top of the card if possible in order to act as a suspension to hold the back of the card up. Second, there is no backplate included with this card. Granted this isn't the "top 780 Ti" in EVGA's lineup, but it's still a top-tier GPU, and its size and mass (about 4.5 lbs) means that it does flex slightly once plugged in. The backplate would help rigidity and potentially provide a bit of cooling for the back of the GPU (which does get quite hot). It's not a must, but it would definitely give the GPU some added rigidity and reduce the stress on the PCI-E port. Lastly, this card throws a LOT of heat into the case. This isn't a con in the sense of being a malfunction, but it's a trait of this card. Make sure that you have enough space below the card (a minimum of 2 PCI-E slots' worth of space) for this card to dissipate heat. Don't cramp it in a "barely fits case"... this card is large, needs air circulation, and throws heat everywhere.

Overall Review: I have this monster of a card in an Obsidian 350D / Maximus VII GENE / i7-4790K / Swiftech H220-x system, and its ability to do 4K at 60 fps even with high settings means that it should be futureproof for a long while. Due to the high amount of heat this card dishes out, and its power requirements, I would not cheap out on a power supply; if it can't do a minimum of 50amps on its 12 volt rail, avoid it... this card needs at least 30 amps, before custom BIOSes and overclocking come into play, and can use over 70 amps if fully unlocked and under extreme (LN2) conditions. However, under normal conditions (air-cooled, stock or slightly overclocked), this card is surprisingly well-behaved and a quality 600 watt PSU can handle one of these. I would not SLi this card in a mATX rig unless you plan on putting this card into a liquid loop; the heat from the 2 cards will result in the cards cooking each other. Also, I would look at no less than a 1000w PSU for 2-way SLi; and a 1300w PSU for 3-way SLi. Overclocking in SLi / extreme cooling might require a 1500w PSU, or even tandem PSUs to ensure OC stability. That being said, as a single GPU, it is viable in a sufficiently large mATX case. The GPU at reference, with the 4790K scores approximately 11,000 in 3DMark Firestrike, and its reference speeds being so much higher than the reference card's speeds, mean that for a small form-factor user... there may not be a need to find this card's limits, as they're higher than the majority of reference 780 Ti's limits out of the box. This card then, is good for mitigating OC limits in the smaller rig, without having to OC beyond spec, thus extending GPU life. I plan on having this GPU on at least a 4 year use cycle. Great GPU, if you have either the ability / room for an OC, or you have a small, roomy rig that can handle this card and its pre-installed overclock.

Pros: This isn't the "highly binned' dominator RAM, but using XMP in my Maximus VII Gene's BIOS, I was able to get 11-13-13-31 2T. However, the result was my CPU spiking up to 1.312v. WIth a little knowledge on your RAM though, you can set the RAM at the desired speed and 2T, and keep your CPU voltages lower. Additionally, this RAM served as the "VRAM" for my HD Graphics 4600 engine on my 4790K while I waited to order a GPU. Is it the fastest? No. But it was sufficient to drive my 4K monitor at 30fps for basic internet / home tasks. GPU-z states that it provides 38.4GB/s in bandwidth, which for those basic tasks is plenty. It doesn't put TOO much stress on the CPU memory controller, as I ultimately got to 4.6GHz with 1.234v on my CPU (all 4 cores); thus it's the sweetspot for RAM speed to CPU OC, while allowing for z97-boards space for 16GB more RAM. Lastly, it doesn't interfere with my H220-x's dangling radiator. It's also cheaper than DDR4, with lower latency, if that means anything :-D

Cons: the heatsinks - in particular the tops - are a bit loose. Be careful with handling. Also, they require a significant amount of force to insert into the motherboard.

Overall Review: There are two great applications for this ram kit. If you have an mITX board, then you can use this RAM to make a dense, but high-speed mITX rig that will be able to game, and do content creation without fear. If you use this in a system with 4 DIMM slots, it leaves 2 slots open for further expansion. (Ie: gaming, content creation, possible RAM drive.) The higher speed also means that if it is used with an IGP solution (either Intel HD Graphics, or ideally an AMD APU), there will be boosts in performance correlating to the ability to use that RAM on that particular format of chip. I may buy a second kit to fill out the 32GB of RAM capabilities on my CPU.