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Pros: The phone catches a lot of people's eyes. Everyone is curious about it but too wary to purchase it themselves. I got the white one with LTE for a reason, because the white one is semi-exclusive as only the black one is sold everywhere, and LTE because I have unlimited data with 2.5 GB of LTE for T-Mobile. The phone works very well with T-Mobile and I had no problems with it. The touch only keyboard is a gift and a curse in that it auto corrects VERY well and predicts words you will type early on so you can swipe up and just have the word entered for you. It also intuitively learns weird words you type, i.e. transliterated words of other languages, uncommon names, and predicts those words, too.
Cons: I upgraded to this phone from a Torch 9810. I do and don't miss the sliding keyboard, as I am still getting accustomed to typing on the touch only keyboard. Sometimes it gets annoying but I have a feeling it will become easier with time. My MAIN complaint against this phone is the LACK of BlackBerry Traffic app. That app is GOLDEN to me and I am considering enabling the mobile hot spot and keeping the Torch in the car to use for Traffic purposes. However, I use an iPhone for business purposes and have seen that an update is rolling out to Google Maps for iOS whereby they will have traffic updates as well, with the option to reroute on a less traffic route. I find that connecting my facebook is extremely annoying as it constantly shows an update despite the fact I have read everything. Same with missed calls, as they are not read unless you actually take the time to call back.
Other Thoughts: The phone is certainly nice to have but there are things to give up in comparison to the Torch 9810, at least for me.READ FULL REVIEW
Pros: ****UPDATE**** 5/9/2013 to NEWEGG review posted by N/A on 4/29/2013
*THIS IS A CONTINUOUS REVIEW FROM PROS TO CONS TO OTHER THOUGHTS*
*PLEASE READ THE 4/29/2013 THEN READ THIS ONE TO FOLLOW UP ON MY UPDATE; THANK YOU*
After reading all the other reviews, I had to give the switch credit because no one else had problems with it. I brought the switch to my in-laws house and tried it there with one device. It worked.
Turns out that the electricity at my apartment is all messed up and it seems like that's the reason I had problems with the switch. The switch itself is fine. After hiring an electrician to fix the problem (circuit breakers, switch box, etc. were replaced), I tried the switch again.
Here are my findings:
After plugging in the power to the switch, which always worked, I then plugged in an ethernet cable from my modem to the switch. The gigabit light on the top left turned green and began blinking, indicating that everything is working. Sure enough, I unplugged my W7 desktop PC's ethernet cable from the modem and plugged it into the switch. Internet turned off, and within SECONDS, internet began working again, INSTANTLY. All speed tests were run by speedtest.net.
Speed test on the W7 PC connected ALONE, with pandora program playing & my roadrunner internet is 10mbps up and 1mbps down:
39 ms ping
14.98 mbps down
0.97 mbps up
I then disconnected my hackintosh directly from the modem and plugged it into the switch. After turning wifi off and connecting ethernet, it showed that it connected but internet did not work. I forgot that I recently updated it from 10.8.2 to 10.8.3, so I ran multibeast & got the ethernet driver installed, restarted, and - presto, it worked. Ran a speed test, now with the W7 PC running pandora and the hackintosh connected.
Results of Hacktinosh speed test:
33 ms ping
14.59 mbps down
0.96 mbps up
Cons: I then disabled wifi on my HP Pavilion dv6-2157sb and connected a newly bought 3 foot cat5e ethernet cable to the laptop. Instant connection. Ran a speed test.
Results of HP Pavilion laptop, with two previous PCs still connected:
23 ms ping
14.26 mbps down
0.97 mbps down
I then disabled wifi on my MacBook Pro & connected another new ethernet cable. Instant connection. I ran a software update, rebooted, and did a speed test.
Results of MacBook Pro speed test with all previous devices still connected:
60 ms ping
14.63 mbps down
1.00 mbps up
I then disabled wifi on my HP Mini 110 netbook & connected another new ethernet cable. Instant connection. I ran Windows update & did a speed test, with all previous devices still connected.
Results of HP Netbook:
36 ms ping
23.84 mbps down
0.97 mbps up
I then disabled wifi on my old IBM ThinkPad R60 running XP and connected it with another new ethernet cable; instant connection, did a speed test, with all previous devices still connected.
Results of IMB ThinkPad:
20 ms ping
14.97 mbps down
0.96 mbps up
Finally, I disabled wifi on my old Dell Latitude D600 (my first ever wifi device :-D...) and connected it with another new ethernet cable; instant connection, did a speed test, with all previous devices still connected.
Results of Dell Latitude D600:
18 ms ping
17.36 mbps down
0.94 mbps up.
Eight ports. One modem. Seven devices.
Four on gigabit speeds... five, counting the modem.
Three on megabit speeds.
Switch works flawlessly.
Sorry for my incorrect post before, but it was out of my hands.
Pros: *THIS IS A CONTINUOUS REVIEW FROM PROS TO CONS TO OTHER THOUGHTS*
For those that do not know, a network switch is a device you attach to your modem or router via ethernet cable to enable you to add more ethernet cabled internet devices to your network.
You must provide power to the switch using a provided power cord.
A switch does not have wifi capabilities. Only a router does. Adding a switch to a modem or router with wifi capabilities does not prevent you from having or using wifi.
At-a-glance & unpackaging.
The TP-Link switch is extremely well built and very durable. The metal casing is not only quality made, but it looks and feels professional and stylish. The front contains a power LED and eight ethernet ports; one of which you connect from your modem or router, and the remaining seven of which you connect to expand network devices using an ethernet cable.
The switch rests on four rubber "pegs" attached via some sort of adhesive. One of the legs actually came off, but I was able to put it right back on without any more glue.
The back has the power cord opening and a slot for you to be able to lock the switch to prevent it from being stolen (separate accessory required to lock it).
The bottom contains product information and two nail slots that allow you to either hang it to a wall in "landscape" or "portrait" mode, if you know what I mean.
I like the fact that the switch is gigabit-capable, which means that with the right equipment, your internet downloads could be a whole lot faster.
Unmanaged simply means that you are not an advanced user seeking extra details on every single device connected to your network.
As far as power saving goes, I could not substantiate that in any form or fashion, but it's good to know that it does save power... somehow.
Using the switch is fairly simple. Connect the power cable. The power LED on the front will instantly go green to show that it is on.
Next, connect an ethernet cable from the modem/router to the #1 port on the TP-Link switch. most switches usually have a designated port that is NOT numbered to indicate it as such, but where it is not, I have learned that the #1 port is the one to connect. So far this is the only drawback of this switch.
Once I connected the ethernet cable between my modem (which is also a wifi router - Motorola SBG6580) and the switch, I then went ahead and connected my PC's ethernet cable, which goes from the ethernet port on my PC to the #2 port on the switch.
I noticed that I did not gain an internet connection upon doing so, so I reset both the modem and the switch by unplugging the power from both, waiting about a minute, then plugging the power back in with all the ethernet cables still connected.
I ordered a few ethernet cables online and am waiting for them to ship.
However, upon trying a different ethernet cable, nothing worked.
I tried it using a different router (an ASUS WLg330) and tried to plug in the ethernet cable to all eight ports. Nothing worked. The power LED is on, but the "link/act" LED as the instruction manual calls it (better known as the ethernet indicator light) did not work at all no matter what I tried.
The instruction manual referred me to Appendix B: Troubleshooting, which states:
The Link/Act LED is not lit when a device is connected to the corresponding port.
Check to see if the cable connectors are firmly plugged into the switch and the device; (yes, removed and connected firmly back in)
and verify the connected device is turned on and working well; (yep, even restarted to make sure - everything worked well except the switch).
Make sure the cable is not longer than 100 meters (328 feet); (no problem there... three foot ethernet cable, and one foot ethernet cable
One footer is Cat5, three footer is Cat5e (or so it looks like).
Sorry, two eggs, because only the power LED turns on and maybe I am doing something wrong, but I don't think so.